Jonsered Chainsaws

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No luck in locating a clutch spring for the 801 so I guess I will see if I can cobble one up from a couple of springs. The one on it is just too weak to work.
I looked at a number of my other saws and don't see one that is anywhere near long enough.

A lot of the smaller Jonny's have three clutch shoes, we have four. Somehow I wound up with a NOS three set for a smaller Jonny, which I have no use for.

Kevin
 
I took my 49sp and a Poulan 3400 out to play today. The Jonny ran really well with a 20" .325 bar as I helped a friend clear a big blown down pine. Sadly the 3400 seemed to be binding the chain brake so I didn't do much more than start it. The Jonny I bought for $25.00 last year and really haven't done anything to it at all not even fuel line or carb kit. The 3400 ($10) got new lines and starts well now but didn't want to run it with the brake binding. The brake lever has never felt good, has very little travel so unsure if the brake is right or not. The brake band seems to have a lot of wear on it. I may see if I can find a clutch cover without a brake until I work out what's wrong. Not that I need the saw to do what needs to be done but would be nice to have it working properly. Certainly worked up a sweat. Weather clear but cold -10 C but no wind at all. Lovely day to be out!
Happy Thanksgiving, to all south of the boarder.
Regards,

Lee
 
I took my 49sp and a Poulan 3400 out to play today. The Jonny ran really well with a 20" .325 bar as I helped a friend clear a big blown down pine. Sadly the 3400 seemed to be binding the chain brake so I didn't do much more than start it. The Jonny I bought for $25.00 last year and really haven't done anything to it at all not even fuel line or carb kit. The 3400 ($10) got new lines and starts well now but didn't want to run it with the brake binding. The brake lever has never felt good, has very little travel so unsure if the brake is right or not. The brake band seems to have a lot of wear on it. I may see if I can find a clutch cover without a brake until I work out what's wrong. Not that I need the saw to do what needs to be done but would be nice to have it working properly. Certainly worked up a sweat. Weather clear but cold -10 C but no wind at all. Lovely day to be out!
Happy Thanksgiving, to all south of the boarder.
Regards,

Lee
I can't tell you why it's binding but maybe the adjust for engagement is set too light. There is an adjustment screw just about 2-1/2 inches above the chain tensioner screw that changes the engagement tension on the brake.
If that doesn't work for you I would be happy to post some pics of one that does work so you can see if everything is in the right place. Let me know.
 
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Ah man, you dawg!!! Nice score, although just five yrs ago you would have paid half that. All this talk of 'muscle saws' has driven anything over 6 cubes into 'collectable'
which=$$$ That looks to be in really nice shape....does the pic do it justice or are there some problems? One owner maybe?

Kevin
This saw was a local find that runs excellent. Great decals, paints good the only flaws I see is kill switch is broke and clutch cover has a chip. Its the cleanest one I've ever touched, I have seen some NOS ones online though. I'm guessing this saw would fetch $600 to $650 online. So I think I got a fair deal. Especially sporting the 36 inch Windsor bar.
And anyone looking for parts shoot me a pm.

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2
 
I can't tell you why it's binding but maybe the adjust for engagement is set too light. There is an adjustment screw just about 2-1/2 inches above the chain tensioner screw that changes the engagement tension on the brake.
If that doesn't work for you I would be happy to post some pics of one that does work so you can see if everything is in the right place. Let me know.
Just having a fiddle with it this morning and what I found is that if I pull back on the brake the chain runs freely but when I let go the brake seems to be partially on. This seems to be the opposite to what should happen. When I got the saw and still now there is very little room between the upper handle and the brake loop. Since I let down the adjuster the brake wont click to the off position. It was not easy to notice before.
I also have discovered that the chain adjusting screw is quite bent. Yes I think photos would be useful, thanks,

Lee
 
This saw was a local find that runs excellent. Great decals, paints good the only flaws I see is kill switch is broke and clutch cover has a chip. Its the cleanest one I've ever touched, I have seen some NOS ones online though. I'm guessing this saw would fetch $600 to $650 online. So I think I got a fair deal. Especially sporting the 36 inch Windsor bar.
And anyone looking for parts shoot me a pm.

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2

Sweet find, for sure! And you're right on the ebay price...they're solidly 'muscle saws' and are finding deep pocketed collectors. I thought about one for my business, but there are no parts anymore to really support using the saw hard. It's one of those things where you'd like to use it for a day and then hand it back over to the owner. I've always been curious how that saw really runs.

Kevin
 
Sweet find, for sure! And you're right on the ebay price...they're solidly 'muscle saws' and are finding deep pocketed collectors. I thought about one for my business, but there are no parts anymore to really support using this saw hard. It's one of those things where you'd like to use it for a day and then hand it back over to the owner. I've always been curious how that saw really runs.

Kevin
 
Just having a fiddle with it this morning and what I found is that if I pull back on the brake the chain runs freely but when I let go the brake seems to be partially on. This seems to be the opposite to what should happen. When I got the saw and still now there is very little room between the upper handle and the brake loop. Since I let down the adjuster the brake wont click to the off position. It was not easy to notice before.
I also have discovered that the chain adjusting screw is quite bent. Yes I think photos would be useful, thanks,

Lee

Hi Lee,

I'll post the pics over in the Poulan thread so we don't mix red / black with green
 
I cobbled up a spring for the 801 clutch today and it worked well enough. Still liking that saw. I have been using the cookies I cut to bank up the fire in the fireplace and it works really well so I cut a bunch more today with the 801. The wood's pretty frozen and the chain was sharp even though it was a Vanguard chain.
Here's a vid. I was on and off the throttle a bit as I'm having to use my middle finger on the throttle.

 
I dunno...have to be there and try my 80 in the same wood. Seems like you could lean it out a bit more....did you rebuild the carb? Also yeah, depends on the chain. Stuff that size my skip-tooth chisel eats for breakfast. But then in firewood with a full comp chain spinnin' really fast, you can cut a lot of wood. I just never came down from .404 chisel, even on the 80. Thanks a lot for the vid!

Kevin
 
I dunno...have to be there and try my 80 in the same wood. Seems like you could lean it out a bit more....did you rebuild the carb? Also yeah, depends on the chain. Stuff that size my skip-tooth chisel eats for breakfast. But then in firewood with a full comp chain spinnin' really fast, you can cut a lot of wood. I just never came down from .404 chisel, even on the 80. Thanks a lot for the vid!

Kevin
I haven't done the carb yet and have to order some kits I need . It was running a little rich for sure. I was getting good chips but a lot of dust as well. I tried another saw with a fresh chain in it and it cut about the same so I guess it's the wood. Being a vanguard chain I'm not sure what the depth guages are set at. they may be a little high.
I ordered the air filter cover tonight for it.
Still fighting with that inner sprocket bearing race.
 
I haven't done the carb yet and have to order some kits I need . It was running a little rich for sure. I was getting good chips but a lot of dust as well. I tried another saw with a fresh chain in it and it cut about the same so I guess it's the wood. Being a vanguard chain I'm not sure what the depth guages are set at. they may be a little high.
I ordered the air filter cover tonight for it.
Still fighting with that inner sprocket bearing race.

The kits are pretty universal for the Tillotson HS series carbs. I use the same kit on the Husky 2100 that I use on the Jonny's. Make sure your fuel lines are 100% and your filter is clean. Not familiar with Vanguard chain, so I can't comment. Cool on the air filter cover....I can't for the life of me figure how that race is stuck on there....I wonder if the PO super glued it or something wacky?

Oh and BTW, the carb to manifold gasket supplied in the present HS kits is NOT correct...it's too small to cover/seal an important venturi on the manifold. I can post a pic of what the proper gasket should look like. We talked about this earlier in this thread.....I tried running the 90 with the HS gasket supplied. I had a couple of green ones that were correct and so I cut some more using them as 'masters'.

Kevin
 
The kits are pretty universal for the Tillotson HS series carbs. I use the same kit on the Husky 2100 that I use on the Jonny's. Make sure your fuel lines are 100% and your filter is clean. Not familiar with Vanguard chain, so I can't comment. Cool on the air filter cover....I can't for the life of me figure how that race is stuck on there....I wonder if the PO super glued it or something wacky?

Oh and BTW, the carb to manifold gasket supplied in the present HS kits is NOT correct...it's too small to cover/seal an important venturi on the manifold. I can post a pic of what the proper gasket should look like. We talked about this earlier in this thread.....I tried running the 90 with the HS gasket supplied. I had a couple of green ones that were correct and so I cut some more using them as 'masters'.

Kevin

A pic of the manifold gasket wold be great in case I can't get the old one off in one piece. Thanks
I'll just keep hitting the race with penetant. If I can't get it off I'll put heat to it if I have to change the crank seal at some point.
 
ju8ysydy.jpg
I suck, got this for a mere $350 bucks off good old Craigslist!

Sent from my N9100 using Tapatalk 2

you do indeed suck.... i've been looking for a buy like that. Good score!
 
A pic of the manifold gasket wold be great in case I can't get the old one off in one piece. Thanks
I'll just keep hitting the race with penetant. If I can't get it off I'll put heat to it if I have to change the crank seal at some point.
A pic of the manifold gasket wold be great in case I can't get the old one off in one piece. Thanks
I'll just keep hitting the race with penetant. If I can't get it off I'll put heat to it if I have to change the crank seal at some point.

OK, here tis.....the one on the left is the green one I made 'copies' from and the one on the right is what is supplied with current HS rebuild kits. Make sure you also get a full rebuild kit, or you'll get nothing more than gaskets. When I went to look why my saw wasn't running right with the HS kit gasket, I could actually see the venturi on the manifold partially uncovered.
 

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OK, here tis.....the one on the left is the green one I made 'copies' from and the one on the right is what is supplied with current HS rebuild kits. Make sure you also get a full rebuild kit, or you'll get nothing more than gaskets. When I went to look why my saw wasn't running right with the HS kit gasket, I could actually see the venturi on the manifold partially uncovered.

Thanks Kevin. I have run into that issue on another couple of my saws.
 
Yeah, I don't know what saws that little gasket in the HS kits works on, but it doesn't on my saws.

Kevin
Those carb/manifold gaskets that come in the kit will work on most any saw that the impulse hole in the carb lines up directly with the impulse hole in the manifold......the old Jonsereds don't ...the hole in the manifold is 10-15 degrees off from the hole in the carb and they have a crazy "S" shaped impulse corridor cut into the face of the manifold. This has to be completely covered by the gasket as the gasket itself becomes part of the impulse corridor. I think the Swede that designed the Jonsereds intakes was on drugs all through the 70's!! I meen look at the manifold on a 49sp.........it has 7 screws to hold it onto the cyl......the mighty 111S has but two???? As for carb/manifold gaskets for the you can make them or purchase them from any Husky dealer...ask for this gasket to fit a 61, 266, 268,272 or also for the 630 Jonsered...
 

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