ZR440man
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Pic of my Jonsereds:
Jonsered Chainsaws
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Check with Eastwood online.....they have a chem for stripping what's in rusty gas tanks before you coat. I bet that chite will work.
Kevin
Kevin
I have one i am going to try acetone next in.
I’ve cleaned tanks with acetone and a handful of sharp nuts and bolts. Then I strap the tank or power head to a tractor wheel hub and go for a ride. I’ve had good results.
I "converted" a Husky cover to J-red colors, I think it turned out pretty good:
What color is that? It looks like a very good match.
Things have been at a standstill for a few weeks but finally after a long they break due to the holidays, waiting for parts, etc. I'm getting back to it. Today I was finally able to remove the seals and I started to clean the crank case and bearings with 2 cycle mix.
Here are some pics after seal removal. Pretty clean if you ask me, but I cleaned anyway.
Images are from the clutch side but the other side looked similar.
There is some minor gunk where the seal mates with the case. I was planning on taking a mix soaked q tip to that. I used an engine cleaning gun that can spray solvent to aid in cleaning the bearings and inside of the case.
As for installing the seals, here's my plan that I've put together based on various YT videos.
Here are some pics after seal removal. Pretty clean if you ask me, but I cleaned anyway.
Images are from the clutch side but the other side looked similar.
There is some minor gunk where the seal mates with the case. I was planning on taking a mix soaked q tip to that. I used an engine cleaning gun that can spray solvent to aid in cleaning the bearings and inside of the case.
As for installing the seals, here's my plan that I've put together based on various YT videos.
- Thoroughly clean the crank shaft with brake cleaner.
- I've seen grease applied to the inside of the seal where the spring sits, to help spring retention, so I was going to do that.
- Dirko or yamabond 4 to outside of the oil seal to fill any minor imperfections and improve seal.
- I'm planning on using a shim stock tube to avoid inversion, large plastic washer and deep socket to install the seal.
- Seal flush with the lip of the case, as it sat before.
If the outside of the seal is painted, you don't have to worry about case imperfections or using a 'filler'.
If you've cleaned out the bearings with solvent, I'd take a syringe(the ones with the mild plastic hook) with 2cycle oil and saturate the bearing where you can....using the point to force the oil into the bearings. Examine the shaft carefully....feel any grooves, dress the shaft appropriately. Yes, grease the inside of the seal.
Instead of shim stock, you could use an old 35mm film roll.....cut off what you need.
Kevin
If you've cleaned out the bearings with solvent, I'd take a syringe(the ones with the mild plastic hook) with 2cycle oil and saturate the bearing where you can....using the point to force the oil into the bearings. Examine the shaft carefully....feel any grooves, dress the shaft appropriately. Yes, grease the inside of the seal.
Instead of shim stock, you could use an old 35mm film roll.....cut off what you need.
Kevin
In this context I meant "solvent" as 2 cycle mix I was using to clean to clean the inside of the case, as @Cantdog recommended earlier in the thread. I just put the hose into a quart of mix and sprayed. Was I wrong to do that?
The outside of my seal is a metal ring, looks brass-ish in color. I don't see any obvious paint.
Regarding "dressing" the shaft, just use a Scotch Brite pad on the accessible/exposed shaft? Out of curiosity, how does a crank shaft get grooved?
I haven't seen a 35 mm film roll in over a decade.
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In this case- solvent was perhaps interpreted as something harsh enough to remove all oils from the bearing and leave them dry for initial start up- mix contains oil, so you are good to go- but never hurts to lube bearing while you can see them.
Perhaps replace "painted" with "coated" the metal ring has a non corrosive coating so it stays fresh looking while packaged- a bit like varnish and lends your brass-ish colour.
Dress the crank stub where the seal sits with anything that is needed- polish with scotchbrite if next to nothing can be felt I guess- but the main gist of this is remove any nicks or burrs that might cut the inner lip face of the oil seal and thus render a new seal useless- not an always required step, but sometimes the crank can be marred when old seals are removed.
If you cannot use 35mm film, think similar- the thin stiff plastic from the lid of a cookie box? Thin flexible and non damaging with a thin profile. I use the side of a thin wall pop or beer can- but you must be careful cutting the section you will use to ensure no sharp edges and nice rounded corners.
Lol....are old film rolls unobtainium now?? I have one on the ground even that lives near my garage....I just haven't pitched it yet.
What you're looking for on any shaft with a seal is a 'lip' from dirt and the seal wearing into the shaft. Mostly on chainsaws, you can't even feel it with a fingernail...might just be some discoloration where the seal rode.
When I worked at that gold mill in CO, shafts, bearings and seals were essential in keeping things running. I was schooled to prep shafts so as to not get premature failures. Sooooo....my suggestions here might seem like somewhat overkill.
A lot of the seals I have used more recently have red 'paint' obviously applied to the outer part.....but any coating they have will aid in your installation.
No problem using 2cycle oil as your solvent inside the crank bearings....I misread that to mean brake cleaner into the bearings.
Kevin
What you're looking for on any shaft with a seal is a 'lip' from dirt and the seal wearing into the shaft. Mostly on chainsaws, you can't even feel it with a fingernail...might just be some discoloration where the seal rode.
When I worked at that gold mill in CO, shafts, bearings and seals were essential in keeping things running. I was schooled to prep shafts so as to not get premature failures. Sooooo....my suggestions here might seem like somewhat overkill.
A lot of the seals I have used more recently have red 'paint' obviously applied to the outer part.....but any coating they have will aid in your installation.
No problem using 2cycle oil as your solvent inside the crank bearings....I misread that to mean brake cleaner into the bearings.
Kevin
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You're good to go.......don't put any grease on the bearings...just two stroke oil. I wouldn't bother with sealing the seal to the case. As said the metal seal carrier is coated...they have quite an interference fit so anything you put on will just be scraped off and end up in the the bearings. As Kevin said, give attention to where the rubber seal ran on the shaft before....don't forget to knock that key out of there!! Be sure to drive the new seals in square......don't let them get kitty-cornered....go slow and be patient and you'll do fine....
Anytime you have a keyway channel....make sure it doesn't have any 'ridges' where the key has worked. Use the 35mm film stock or something to protect the seal as it slides over that area. I've watched a lot of guys trash a seal at exactly that place.
Kevin
Kevin
That's why I got the shim stock, to tube up and protect the seal as it rides down the shaft (or am I mistaken about the reason the it was used on the YT video I saw?). I didn't want to MacGyver from other material as I thought thin shim stock would would be less likely to lacerate the rubber seal and work better than other methods I saw (like the beer can method...made me cringe, but what do I know).
Maybe they're not unobtainium per se, but I personally haven't had a 35mm camera since senior year of high school cough20yearsagocough. I'm a digital era kid. I'm sorry about the solvent misunderstanding, I wasn't clear myself.
Lots of videos on YT warning of kitty cornering. Many used the thin material tube method, Tinman used a large plastic washer and The Chainsaw Guy used the deep socket, so I sort of combined all those methods.
I'm not sure, I took it in to a local auto shop and they color matched the cover to the saw.
As far as rattle cans....they used to say International Harvester Red was close. But an auto paint place will match closer and with better paint.
Kevin
Kevin
I like the deep socket method to keep the spring and center part of the seal from 'folding'. You're being cautious, you'll be fine.
Kevin
IH red is not a good match (of course IH red opens a whole other can of worms). I've found that Ford Engine Red from Duplicolor is really close. That body shop did a nice job color matching. The few times I've done a color match (never tried for Jonsereds) I was disappointed.
