Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

Weird. Robin, did you happen to throw a tach on that millin' 2095? I bet they slowed that horse down a bit to keep 'er running cooler.

.325 I suppose to keep the kerf bite down. If you wanted to stay that size, I'm like you, where the heck would you find another .325 spur drive to fit that saw? And probably to convert to rim drive you might be up against the same battle.

Kevin

Yes I did but don't rember what is was other than setting to the factory WOT setting. Spike60 sent me a Jonsereds chart that specified WOT setting for a pile of saws. It at the shop......I'll try and look at it tomorrow and see if there is an RPM difference between the 2094 and 2025.....

 

[Cantdog]

I dunno about "mint"....need better pics/lighting and a pic of the bottom. But yeah, very nice condition and what appears to be original.

I think if anything kills the sale price a bit it's the fault of the pics. A good time to test the new year's chainsaw marketplace on fleabay. I would think it will go
towards $400(certainly not from me!), maybe even more. But many folks are broke as chite from Xmas still. 6 days to go on the sale......

No feedback either.....my guess is someone passed and that gal in the background is the widow.....relative taking the pics, kitchen table etc.

Kevin

Well.... when I look at a saw online there are several places I look to judge it's use......kinda like the drivers seat in a truck. On these saws (True Jonsereds) I first look at the trigger handle......the paint wear will tell me a great deal about how many hours it's been held.......the next is the clutch cover....on saws with only a half wrap the cover shows wear everytime it's layed on it's side and fueled. The next is the muffler.....is the saw running spikes??......if not the muffler will show a lot of dents if been used a lot as will the overall front of the saw show wear. After that I observe the overall shape of the saw......are colors mismatched due the replaced parts etc. Mint may be a stretch depending on one's thought of mint. Overall......for a forty odd year old saw I deem it to be in extraordinary condition .......How 'bout "minty"...LOL!!

 

[Real1shepherd]

Yes I did but don't rember what is was other than setting to the factory WOT setting. Spike60 sent me a Jonsereds chart that specified WOT setting for a pile of saws. It at the shop......I'll try and look at it tomorrow and see if there is an RPM difference between the 2094 and 2025.....

Very cool. Are the charts something you can scan and share?

Bob be 'the man'. He sent me an original service manual for the Husky 2100 he found in his stash. I've only been looking for 15yrs to replace the one I had stolen.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well.... when I look at a saw online there are several places I look to judge it's use......kinda like the drivers seat in a truck. On these saws (True Jonsereds) I first look at the trigger handle......the paint wear will tell me a great deal about how many hours it's been held.......the next is the clutch cover....on saws with only a half wrap the cover shows wear everytime it's layed on it's side and fueled. The next is the muffler.....is the saw running spikes??......if not the muffler will show a lot of dents if been used a lot as will the overall front of the saw show wear. After that I observe the overall shape of the saw......are colors mismatched due the replaced parts etc. Mint may be a stretch depending on one's thought of mint. Overall......for a forty odd year old saw I deem it to be in extraordinary condition .......How 'bout "minty"...LOL!!

Yeah me too.....but since collectors have taken over the hobby, they are matching OE paint with high-cost auto paint and the like, followed by clear, etc.....even powder coating. Only in person can you sometimes discern it's an original saw in every way. In this instance given the amateurish photos with the woman in the background and the small description alluding to the notion that someone told them they hit collector 'gold' with this saw.....I tend to agree with you on originality.

The muffler looks great...original, not beat up.

Kevin

.

 

[taplinhill]

Very cool. Are the charts something you can scan and share?

Bob be 'the man'. He sent me an original workshop manual for the Husky 2100 he found in his stash. I've only been looking for 15yrs to replace the one I had stolen.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

View attachment 1049041

Thanks Eric......That's the one. It looks like both the 2094 and 2095 tune to 13,000 WOT

 

[Real1shepherd]

That's very conservative....Mine is right @14,000 unloaded WOT and it's 4stroking fine. I would have expected some difference between the '94 & the '95.....curious.

I just noticed the difference between the 80 and the 90. There shouldn't be that discrepancy. Except for the slightly larger displacement of the 90, they are identical saws internally. My 80 has run most of its life right around 11,000rpm. After I got my tach, I tuned all my saws by ear like I ran them in the woods and then checked the tach.

However, I don't think I ever put the tach on the 90. When it's warmed up I can restart that saw by pulling the recoil out halfway....it's that easy. It runs like a gentleman compared to my wild-a** 80. It does have a little more torque in the cut, hence the 32" bar. Sure is a sweetheart.

Kevin

 

[ErnieG]

Now here's a durn nice looking 70E......very low hour by the look

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3853538480...couhCVfwzMbJfNaZK4yDXK1H8=|tkp:Bk9SR-DBw_q2YQ

Listed on FB too....

 

[Real1shepherd]

Told ya! But only $235 on fleabay as of right now. Five days to go though....snipe bidding at the end etc. Might make $400 yet.

Too pretty for me....needs to be woods broke. If it's got the SIMs module inside the flywheel, they've got a problem.......if they run it hard and long. Maybe it will sit on a shelf and they won't care......

Kevin

 

[numnutz6383]

As I said earlier there are three different igns for the 451......entirely different..... needing different flywheels.

The one in the pics is the latest ign used on these saws.......the next one back in time is nearly identicle to the ign used on the 910E......only difference is the length of the two thin wires connecting the module to the coil which is mounted on the sparkplug.

Forgive my ignorance Robin, but why would the flywheel itself change? Flywheel just hold the magnets for the coil to interact with, what am I missing?

My guess would be the "Z" key would be used to adavance or retard the timing form stock depending on whch way it was installed......likely to retard where the 2095 was designed from the 2094 as a milling saw. This would lower the rpm and make the saw run cooler on long runs at WOT....

I had a 2095 at the shop that was sold new with a 12' Jonsered saw mill/carrage set up.......had a few different things on it you don't see....like a .325 Bar and ripping chain etc.

Not that you need my validation, but I think you're spot-on.

I also own an Echo CS-590 and recently purchased some "bolt on" upgrades that I found via YouTube on a channel for Gearhead Performance (Matt is his name, I believe he's also a member here). He sells an "Offset Flywheel Key" he machines out of aluminum that advances the timing of the 590 to that of a 620. If you look closely at the image it resembles a "Z", it's much more obvious in your hand.

 

[Real1shepherd]

All lumped together like that, it's making it tough for me to imagine. If one was put on a table(or palm) and shot from different angles......I'd get the 'aha' moment.

When they move coils around, they often change the flywheel. Like from an internal SIM's module to an external coil.....ala the 70e.

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Forgive my ignorance Robin, but why would the flywheel itself change? Flywheel just hold the magnets for the coil to interact with, what am I missing?

Not that you need my validation, but I think you're spot-on.

I also own an Echo CS-590 and recently purchased some "bolt on" upgrades that I found via YouTube on a channel for Gearhead Performance (Matt is his name, I believe he's also a member here). He sells an "Offset Flywheel Key" he machines out of aluminum that advances the timing of the 590 to that of a 620. If you look closely at the image it resembles a "Z", it's much more obvious in your hand.
View attachment 1049283

If I remember correcrly the very first 451 had the module mounted in a different postion than the later ones...then of course there is the EV model that has magnets on the inside to run the heated handles. I believe Eric may have more info on this model than I.

 

[numnutz6383]

All lumped together like that, it's making it tough for me to imagine. If one was put on a table(or palm) and shot from different angles......I'd get the 'aha' moment.

When they move coils around, they often change the flywheel. Like from an internal SIM's module to an external coil.....ala the 70e.

Kevin

If you follow this link to the page with his products he has a CAD image that may help picturing it. Here it is


Also if you look at this video he explains it.

Here he talks a bit more about it and shows installation.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Everyone realizes that you can just take a flat file and shave your key ,right? I mean its common practice for a hopped up saw.

 

[numnutz6383]

Everyone realizes that you can just take a flat file and shave your key ,right? I mean its common practice for a hopped up saw.

Well, I didn't, but I'm relatively new to saws. Matt (or as he is called here, @mattr66) acknowledges the method you're describing in his video, but he says that the key loses its width creating potential for the flywheel to shift back as it's tightened.

 

[xl130]

I recently learned this trick, but have personally never bothered. I’m not exactly into modifying saws. I do well ti put them back together the way they were intend!

What gains do you get from advancing the firing on a stock saw??

 

[xl130]

My guess would be the "Z" key would be used to adavance or retard the timing form stock depending on whch way it was installed......likely to retard where the 2095 was designed from the 2094 as a milling saw. This would lower the rpm and make the saw run cooler on long runs at WOT....

I had a 2095 at the shop that was sold new with a 12' Jonsered saw mill/carrage set up.......had a few different things on it you don't see....like a .325 Bar and ripping chain etc.

Well this sheds some light on my ignition timing question. Guess I should have read a bit more first!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Well, I didn't, but I'm relatively new to saws. Matt (or as he is called here, @mattr66) acknowledges the method you're describing in his video, but he says that the key loses its width creating potential for the flywheel to shift back as it's tightened.

Sorry, no offense.
I put the key in a soft jaw vise and might start with .010 increments unless someone has posted a known good advance.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I recently learned this trick, but have personally never bothered. I’m not exactly into modifying saws. I do well ti put them back together the way they were intend!

What gains do you get from advancing the firing on a stock saw??

It certainly won't make it easier to pull start!
If you have a decent saw or slightly modified it will give you some snap in the throttle response. Some manufacturers have alot of retarded timing for easy starts.

 

[Real1shepherd]

The drawing gave me my 'aha' moment...thanks!

3D nylon key.....don't think so. Prying out the flywheel while taping on the shaft with a shop hammer....well guy, don't quit your day job.

Kevin