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Cantdog said:
Jeff.... I would have to say what the shop told him is pure bunk. If you can't shut the saw of it is the switch...very common problem on all the saws of this family, both Jonsered and Husqvarna. Or it may well be a broken ground wire (that runs between the module and switch) The 80's 630 has a two piece ign system...the module/pickup and the coil ...no mag. When either of these items fail the saw doesn't run at all. I can't rember exactly what max rpm is off the top of my head but it is either 12,500 or 13,000 stock and I've built them to turn in the 14,500 area with no problems what so ever. Ritchening it up to bring the rpm down to 10,000 is foolish..plain and simple. it will burn tons of fuel, run poorly and you risk carbon builduip problems.....find a different shop....those guys are dim....the 630 is an excellent, well made fairly powerful saw. Just tell him to buy a new switch....
Click to expand...

Yep. Everything he said. Is this a Jonsered dealer or do they carry a different brand? Either way I would stay clear of that shop. A lot of 630's from the 80's were running 2 thin piston rings compared to the later models with one. Running a 2 ring 630 at 10,000 rpm is asking for trouble. Those rings carbon up fast at normal operating conditions but with that much oil i can't imagine they would last long at all.
 
Well that is another peice of good info and i appreceiate it a bunch.I think he will have me do the switch and If I do I will pull the muffler and see if it is a 2 ring deal or not .I dont have a tach but I will tune her by hand 1/14 on each and see where she is after that.As far as the shop god only knows I suspect a guy with a screwdriver, beer and a sign and not in that order either probobly.I never heard of the place he drove right by 3 great shops to go there. You do the same thing I am sure ya know buy a $500 dollar saw then find a hole in the wall shop to work on it for ya so you can "save" $5.00 bucks ha ha ha
 
Geese you guys are full of it.......Advice that is that is a good idea on the oil I will mention it. He is a good fella but he does not understand anything about how things work. So when a pretend saw shap says somthing he believes it.
 
Jonsereds 451 EV

I'm new here, and not sure if this is the right place for this, but...

I just picked up an original, perfectly functional (minus the kill switch) Jonsereds 451 EV. This thing was passed from original owner to son-in-law, and I've never had such complete records come with anything I purchased, except a 1-owner car! Seriously, original receipt, maintenance records, extras, owner's manual, spare parts list, etc. Craziness. Talk about confidence-inspiring!

On that manual thing, when I was searching around for info on this saw, I saw a lot of "does anyone have a manual for the 451E?" kind of stuff online. Most people just wanted to know what the fuel:eek:il mixture ratio was suppose to be. I see people claiming 25:1, 32:1, and then a slew of conversations about how new oil is much better, therefore a lower ratio is needed, or the old saws have wider tolerances, so run a higher ratio, blah, blah, blah.

Well, I have the original owner's manual, and the spare parts list, and I scanned them both into PDF. I am happy to send these to anyone who wants them. BUT... (here's the kicker)

The original owner's manual actually DOESN'T list the mixture ratio. No bull. Anyway, I'm happy to send these docs to anyone who wants them, as I said. Shoot me a PM with your email address, or point me to the place to post these.

Thanks, and thanks for the info!

(I'll post pictures when I get 'em.)
 
Good score!! Those are sweet little saws...the kill switch is easy...the heat level switch is darn near unobtainable!! I run all my old Jonsereds on Stihl Ultra at 50:1 with no problems even on ported ones. Probably Husky full synth would do just as well....but Ultra was designed to fight carbon buildup and does work very well to that end and I can get it local. Would love to see the pics...
 
2071 crank seals

Installed new bearings and seals in a 2071 today and my problem now is it wont start. Can a seal keep it from running? Ill check the seals tomorrow to see if there is a tear or if i messed them up. Dont know why it isnt running???? Compression is 150 and good spark. Any thoughts? Was running before tear down to replace the bad bearing.
 
Cantdog said:
Good score!! Those are sweet little saws...the kill switch is easy...the heat level switch is darn near unobtainable!! I run all my old Jonsereds on Stihl Ultra at 50:1 with no problems even on ported ones. Probably Husky full synth would do just as well....but Ultra was designed to fight carbon buildup and does work very well to that end and I can get it local. Would love to see the pics...
Click to expand...

I was able to score some of these switches a few years back on eBay. Haven't come up with a saw that needed them since then.
 
ELECT6845 said:
Installed new bearings and seals in a 2071 today and my problem now is it wont start. Can a seal keep it from running? Ill check the seals tomorrow to see if there is a tear or if i messed them up. Dont know why it isnt running???? Compression is 150 and good spark. Any thoughts? Was running before tear down to replace the bad bearing.
Click to expand...

If you replaced the main bearings you had to tear the whole thing down. Are you sure you have it back together correctly? Did you replace all the gaskets with new?
 
Cantdog said:
The heat level switches???................I don't SUPPOSE you have any extras kicking around do you???
Click to expand...

Just got home and looked..................YES!

I have two of 504385604 for 920/930 and one of 504385608 (still sealed in Jonsered bag) for something else. NEver looked them up since I didn't need them. Can you use any of these?
 
has spark and comp. anyone have a handle with throttle?
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These 3 have come in somewhat recently, I just finished up the last one today.

The 81 is the best runner, hands-down. The piston was spotless, still showing the machining marks. I've put it to work on a few jobs (not just cookie cutting) and it performed flawlessly. One of the few saws I own that can empty the oil tank way before it runs out of fuel. Didn't need anything other than a carb kit and fuel filter. At first it wouldn't oil--the filter screen was completely plugged with grit.

The 70E needed only a carb kit. Seems to real finicky about adjustment or it may just need to be run more. Older style with the plastic fanwheel and coil bolted to the recoil cover. Has an awesome exhaust sound.

The 621 was a bit tougher. First, it was a hard starter. Cleaning the points fixed that. Then, I had a hard time tuning the saw, could never get it to idle down and stop rotating the chain. I found sawdust had gotten packed into the clutch assembly and made it real grabby. (I know from experience it is impossible to tune a saw with a clutch that won't release.) Then I discovered (after comparing to my other 621 project) that it was sporting a 801/90 4-shoe clutch and drum. Seems to run pretty well now.

Chris B.

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