just bought a 395xp, the chain brake handle is very flimsy feeling:/

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I don't know if I would try it at wot as you say your strength is
not up to par! Take it to the dealer don't end up a kickback victim.


I agree.. just bring it back, something is not right. You paid enough for the saw, why make it work now when you know as soon as that warranty is up, it'll give you problems again any you will be SOL.
 
eh, i tried it half throttle or so nothing.

3/4 throttle nothing.

im not getting jack so calling my dealer today.
 
You have to have the saw/chain running when it hits the stump.....say WOT then drop it on the stump it will engage then......that's the way it's designed....:greenchainsaw: :cheers:

Sounds silly to me. Either the inertia braking works or it doesn't. No reason to start the saw just so it has a chance of hurting you if the brake doesn't trip.
 
Husky

Sounds silly to me. Either the inertia braking works or it doesn't. No reason to start the saw just so it has a chance of hurting you if the brake doesn't trip.

That's just the way husky designed it..........:greenchainsaw: :cheers:
 
well i dropped it off in naperville, 30 miles from me.

noone at the counter had any clue wtf i was talking about apparently, they said they would "get a look at it in a few days" They refused to look at it for me real quick.

so whatever, this sucks.

The guy at the counter did pull on the bar to see what i was talking about and he struggled to get it to release.

thats about it i guess, 10-1 they never get to my saw this week. if so im going to go up there and take it back.
 
Unfortunately, you are at the mercy of a servicing dealer that may or may not have the expertise to figure out what's going on. At the most he won't wait for Husqvarna tech support to come by his place and troubleshoot it for him. Instead he should be able to call and get it expedited which means you might get your saw back in a few weeks with any luck. I wonder why they couldn't just take one off another saw and try it while you were there. Or at least make a quick call to Husquvarna tech support. For god's sake you had to drive fifty miles just to get there. This is where that great dealer network to support your saw (Husky or Sthil) falls apart because in reality, support for your saw is only as good as the guy you bought it from. I'm not trying to bash here, but I see this happen all the time and it happened to me. Good luck. I went out and tried mine, and although its tight... It's not that hard to disengage. I think somethings wrong there.
 
yea, i didnt go back to the same place i bought it from, i chose to drive 20 miles closer to another husqvarna dealer. apparently i shoulda taken and paid the extra couple dollars for gas and drove further north to the place i bought it from.

This place didnt even have husqvarna chainsaws, all they had was husqvarna gas masonry cutting saws. Noone told me this over the phone. I was going to just ask to see there 395xp on the shelf BUT NOOOOooo they dont even carry husqvarna chainsaws.

they had plenty of Stihl chainsaws though.... :/

sigh if only i had known.

Any way, im heading back up that way thursday-friday (staying the night) for my nephew's birthday party, so im going to swing by, pick up my saw and take it home its right in the area of there house so hopefully they have looked at it by thursday or friday.
 
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That's just the way husky designed it..........:greenchainsaw: :cheers:

Nope, read the manual. (page 8-9)

You do the drop test to see if inertia trips the brake. Then you start the saw and give it full throttle and rotate your hand into the brake lever to see if the brake is strong enough to stop the chain instantly.

If you rev it to full throttle and then drop the bar nose into a stump, you're just asking for the saw to jump up into your face, especially if the brake fails the test like Journier's does.
 
OK

Got call back from this power equipment place they fixed the chainsaw.

They said the wear on the break band wasnt a problem.

They said they had to cut some spring off to make the chainbrake operate correctly since it was so hard.

So i guess i was right the chainbrake spring was too long or not correctly sized.
 
I suppose it's possible the spring was cut too long or the wrong spring was installed.

If I'd been doing that as a warranty job, I would have replaced the spring with new if I thought it was the wrong part. If that didn't fix it, I'd know that something was binding in the mechanism and I was wrong about the spring.

Be sure to do the full throttle, rotate wrist into handguard test when you pick it up at the shop. That spring needs to be strong enough to stop the saw, and you've got a big engine.
 
You have to have the saw/chain running when it hits the stump.....say WOT then drop it on the stump it will engage then......that's the way it's designed....:greenchainsaw: :cheers:

at the risk of offending (i'm not intending to I assure you)

That is the stupidest comment i have ever heard. Anyone who tests a chainbrake like that is asking for a chainsaw facial. If this guy went and did that and killed himself you would feel pretty bad... and there are people out there who would try it based on advice received from AS

:D:D:D

STK
 
Not to beat the deceased equine, but:

A good way to "drop test" is just that, put a piece of plywood or something on the concrete floor of your shop or garage to protect the chain and bar, hold saw parallel to the floor, and drop the tip of the bar on the wood. Chain brake should pop on. No need to even start the saw.

Also please test it as taxmantoo described out of wood with saw running. You paid for the safety device, might as well have it working properly.

Have fun, I hope your saw is working good now.
 
at the risk of offending (i'm not intending to I assure you)

That is the stupidest comment i have ever heard. Anyone who tests a chainbrake like that is asking for a chainsaw facial. If this guy went and did that and killed himself you would feel pretty bad... and there are people out there who would try it based on advice received from AS

:D:D:D

STK

I dont see how it could have given anyone a chainsaw facial, or bukkake.

:chainsaw:

Unless i flip the saw upside down and get it in the groin, or drop it on the corner of the wood in the kickback zone there was no chance of it kicking back into my face.

[BEGIN SARCASM]Then again.....

you guys are making it sound as if I should have jammed it into wood in the kickback zone, so i could really test the saw out... maybe i Shoulda done it that way.[END SARCASM]

Not to beat the deceased equine, but:

Dont worry we cant even identify the corpse anymore, it could be a dead giraffe for all we know, so few remains left.

A good way to "drop test" is just that, put a piece of plywood or something on the concrete floor of your shop or garage to protect the chain and bar, hold saw parallel to the floor, and drop the tip of the bar on the wood. Chain brake should pop on. No need to even start the saw.

This is what i did originally, no effect, i did the running chainsaw test to make sure there wasnt some magical frictional force applied by the Husqvarna Chainsaw Wizards that would apply to the break when it got bumped with the chain moving.


Also please test it as taxmantoo described out of wood with saw running. You paid for the safety device, might as well have it working properly.

definately, trust me im already bothered by this whole situation occurring in the first place. $1000 dollars for a saw that the dealer has had in its possession longer than I have :/
 
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I dont see how it could have given anyone a chainsaw facial, or bukkake.

:chainsaw:

Unless i flip the saw upside down and get it in the groin, or drop it on the corner of the wood in the kickback zone there was no chance of it kicking back into my face.

Then again.....

you guys are making it sound as if I should have jammed it into wood in the kickback zone, so i could really test the saw out... maybe i Shoulda done it that way.



Dont worry we cant even identify the corpse anymore, it could be a dead giraffe for all we know, so few remains left.



This is what i did originally, no effect, i did the running chainsaw test to make sure there wasnt some magical frictional force applied by the Husqvarna Chainsaw Wizards that would apply to the break when it got bumped with the chain moving.




definately, trust me im already bothered by this whole situation occurring in the first place. $1000 dollars for a saw that the dealer has had in its possession longer than I have :/


You are making me cringe. dropping the saw while its running is bad. dropping your saw while its running and your finger is on the trigger is asking for trouble. "Jamming the saw into the kickback zone to test it" is a sure fire way to lose a limb, especially if your chainbrake condition is doubtfull to start with...
 
"Jamming the saw into the kickback zone to test it" is a sure fire way to lose a limb, especially if your chainbrake condition is doubtfull to start with...

It was sarcasm, I said that to demonstrate the idiocy of jamming a saw into the kickback zone, why would i do that? Why are you consistently making statements that sound as if I would do such a thing? I know you New Zealanders? dont use just plain dry british humor right?

WOW you guys are fun.
 
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It was sarcasm, I said that to demonstrate the idiocy of jamming a saw into the kickback zone, why would i do that? Why are you consistently making statements that sound as if I would do such a thing? I know you New Zealanders? dont use just plain dry british humor right?

WOW you guys are fun.

??? take it easy, just trying to stop you from having an accident. I have seen plenty, all the result of human error.

You have a pretty powerfull saw there, I own many of them and they are all fantastic. You mentioned you dropped the saw at WOT. That is a serious safety hazard, regardles of kickback zone.

I have seen a faller do this before, and missed the log he was dropping the saw on. He had enough control to stop the saw from hitting his leg (still only one hand on the saw). As he was moving the saw away from his leg (still WOT) it clipped the log and sent the saw flying at him. Old left ear wont do that again.

You can take the pi$$ if you wish, but safety should come first.

STK
 
3/4 throttle, never fully open, hate doing that to anything without a load.

I am taking it easy :dizzy: Im sitting here having a drink and watching Family Guy.
\
edit-

whats take the pi$$ mean? never heard that before.
 
3/4 throttle, never fully open, hate doing that to anything without a load.

I am taking it easy :dizzy: Im sitting here having a drink and watching Family Guy.
\
edit-

whats take the pi$$ mean? never heard that before.

take the pi$$ = make fun off.

Its a brittish humour thing.

refer the movie "snatch" for a great example (which is the best movie ever made) ----- "...boris, are you taking the pi$$"

oh, and please please please turn your saw off to do the inertia test. no 3/4 throttle!
 

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