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Hey Nails, I'd just buy the bigshot for 120. Consider the time and trouble it'll take to fabricate it and the fact it'll pay for it's self the 1st job you set a line 70 feet from the ground and pull the tree over without climbing it.

You can make shots thru cover that you would never be able to hand throw.
Best money you'll ever spend and you write it off on your taxes.

Originally Posted by tree MDS
"I thing that big shot thing is a waste of money there Nails, just not nessisary/just another way for them to bilk us out of would be profits."

MDS doesn't know what he's talking about.
Nice to see you back reach, I thought I scared you away. :)
MDS
 
Everyone needs a bigshot. In my business I'd be lost without it. Get the newer improved one. Their really accurate once you get used to it . For setting a pull line, climbing line , static removable false crotch, etc. you can't be without the big shot.

If I'm spurring up hardwood I'm always tied into a dynamic climbing line system with a friction saver and a blakes hitch advanced by a micro pulley. I got that extra security with 2 systems. You can always change your friction saver false crotch position when you get to the top. Tie into a neighboring tree if the tree your climbing is an iffy one for safety, you can release yor lanyard and swing away in a time of trouble.

Learn how footlock your climbing rope with the blakes or ditsel hitch. I wasted alot of $ buying all different kinds of ascenders. Stuff which was always in the way or just 1 extra thing to worry about. I'm 50 years old an I can footlock up 50 ft. nonstop with ms200 and all. Arbormaster taught me how to climb when I was 42 years. So your never too old to learn.
 
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Everyone needs a bigshot. In my business I'd be lost without it. Get the newer improved one. Their really accurate once you get used to it . For setting a pull line, climbing line , static removable false crotch, etc. you can't be without the big shot.

If I'm spurring up hardwood I'm always tied into a dynamic climbing line system with a friction saver and a blakes hitch advanced by a micro pulley. I got that extra security with 2 systems. You can always change your friction saver false crotch position when you get to the top. Tie into a neighboring tree if the tree your climbing is an iffy one for safety, you can release yor lanyard and swing away in a time of trouble.

Learn how footlock your climbing rope with the blakes or ditsel hitch. I wasted alot of $ buying all different kinds of ascenders. Stuff which was always in the way or just 1 extra thing to worry about. I'm 50 years old an I can footlock up 50 ft. nonstop with ms200 and all. Arbormaster taught me how to climb when I was 42 years. So your never too old to learn.


Holmen, thanks for the input. I figured I would learn to footlock because I am not a fan of extra gear or wasting money. I am sure I will learn it in a minute or two. What do you use on your hands when you footlock?
 
What do you use on your hands when you footlock?

I use Mar-Bars, if you have a good strong grip, then an 8mm cord and a Klemhiest/Krutzklem hitch works well. Grab a lock, jump up, hold the rop, grab...jump..hold...

It takes a while to get the muscle memory and coordination down, logger heels makes it harder too.
 
Holmen, thanks for the input. I figured I would learn to footlock because I am not a fan of extra gear or wasting money. I am sure I will learn it in a minute or two. What do you use on your hands when you footlock?

I use Bailey's rubber coated cor grip gloves item #13065. Their nice snug fitting for average sized hands and can last a couple of hard climbing days. I bought 10 doz. last year for $15 doz. when they were on sale.Reg. price is $18.95 doz. if you buy 10 doz. still plenty cheap for a good climbing glove.

If you learn to footlock don't start with the static version [ friction hitch around both lines ] .you can't descend on this system or if you get too close to your false crotch the 2 ropes will widen apart and your hitch will let go. This is a fast ascending system for the experienced climber. To descend you'll have to use a figure 8 descender.

Learn the split- tail with the micro pulley advancing technique. Its 1/2 the speed of the static but much more efficent.I still use the same 4 ft x 1/2" Safety Blue split tail with braided eye since I first climbed 8 yr. ago.[Sherrill #31346 $24].I still use the Blakes hitch nothing fancy but always reliable. You can limb walk all over the tree with this system, but always have a figure 8 knot on the running end of your climbing rope [inside the rope bag] and on the end of your split tail.Many experienced climbers have fallen to their deaths from forgetting to use the fig.8 . My best advice is take an Arbor Master climbing skills course. I'm going to take mine over again too just to refresh myself. It will be the best money you can spend.
 
Great information guys, it will definitely be helpful. Without looking I would say that Wisconsin Rapids is at least 60 miles probably 10 or 20 more. What about those D-handle like hand ascenders, worth it or not?
 
What do you use on your hands when you footlock?

hopefully you got them on the rope homey. lol


i bought a rock (rox maybe?) dual ascender. 110$. worth it? maybe. probably just end up using a prussic cord though in the long run. but at least i'll have it. oh well. i've spent a hunge on worse. lol.

footlocking will get easier thats for sure. so dont get pissed at it.


for starting off though definitely just go with your normal set up. (splittail with the blakes right?) that way you can get a handle on it without worry too much about running out of gas or descent or too close to you TIP.

good luck on it.
 
Holmen, thanks for the input. I figured I would learn to footlock because I am not a fan of extra gear or wasting money. I am sure I will learn it in a minute or two. What do you use on your hands when you footlock?

HA ha in my earlier post I said I use cor grip gloves on my hands, now I get what you were saying. Yes when I started climbing the split tail the 1st 6 mths I had a grip problem so I bought a pair of Petzl handled ascenders .They helped me get used to all the body mechanics of footlocking. What I realized was the lack of skill and lack of pressure my feet were putting on the rope was making myself compensate the movement by putting more emphasis on my upper body strength and hand grip. With the Petzls I was able to concentrate better on my lower body and feet. When it all became fluid with a balance of upper & lower body the Petzls have been in my gear bag ever since. They were always in the road or getting caught on things while working in the tree. Footlocking is like riding a bike ,get used to it the first time and you never forget. It becomes natural in no time.
 
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hopefully you got them on the rope homey. lol


i bought a rock (rox maybe?) dual ascender. 110$. worth it? maybe. probably just end up using a prussic cord though in the long run. but at least i'll have it. oh well. i've spent a hunge on worse. lol.

footlocking will get easier thats for sure. so dont get pissed at it.


for starting off though definitely just go with your normal set up. (splittail with the blakes right?) that way you can get a handle on it without worry too much about running out of gas or descent or too close to you TIP.

good luck on it.


Splittail with the blakes will be my original setup. If I can't learn to footlock in 10 minutes or less I am going to throw myself out my basement window.
 
No luck fellas, on the window stunt that is. Why? Cause I learned to footlock tonight in 5 minutes!

It took me about 5 sets of my feet until I found the position I wanted, so I would get a solid non-slip lock and up I went.

I don't have my friction saver and all that stuff yet so I used my homemade splittail, and a natural crotch.

I think it is cool passing by all these "technical" spike climb areas on a rope. Makes it pretty easy to get to the top without fighting limbs, knots, and other stuff.

My new problem: what do I do when I get to the top?

I also tried walking up the tree with my flipline, also a neat technique. Love these new options.
 
Tie in

Buckstrap in on a branch somewhere in the vicinity of yout TIP or below it. Take off the prussic and throw it to the ground (or keep in on your saddle, just more stuff to have DONT throw the biner) Pull one end of your rope up (spliced end if you h ave it.) Tie your fixed end onto your saddle then tie your split tail and friction hitch. Or get to the limb closest to your future TIP and throw your rope up there, then repeat steps above..
 
Thanks, I get the tie in part.

What I mean is how do I move around? Am I supposed to get some good shoes on and run around like a squirell with just my climbing line and a buckstrap?

With spikes I could obviously get anywhere, just not sure what it will take without them. I will say this though, footlocking kicks ass.
 
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If you ever get a chance, you should check out some of the ISA climbing competitions. The work climb and masters' challenge give a pretty good indication of how to move around in the tree. Good TIP and good boots go a long way to being able to move around the tree with ease.

http://www.asolo.com/content.asp?L=3&idMen=429
http://www.asolo.com/photo/OM3400_508_07.jpg

Those are what I'm currently using for boots. I like them alot. Good stiff/semi-flat sole, good grip and very comfortable. Good for footlocking and limb walking.

I've found that using straps or prussik loops as footholds (girth hitch around a limb and insert foot) help on more vertical limbs, where proper positioning to make a cut is a little harder to achieve. Experiment, trust your ropes/gear and yeah, take some cues from the squirrels/monkeys and you'll be running around the tree in no time. :)

Man, I can't wait for the temps to warm up and this snow to clear up. It looks to be a productive spring, providing spring actually arrives.

Mark Currie
 
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