keeping combustibles safe

[thor97]

For those wondering about the combustion temperature of the wood trim by your wood stove. I took a galvanized piece of sheet metal( 8' and whatever color you like) cut it to fit (up to the window and just over the sill) and set it on 2 bricks which kept it off the floor about an inch. This actually creates convection and gets an air flow going behind the sheet. It has lowered the temperature of the wood to where it is cool to the touch. It has relieved my worrying about fire, and is very cheap and easy. Try it, you'll like it.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

At one time DuraRock, or cement board is/was commonly used as backer for tile. I used it on the wall behind our wood stove, although it is a false wall built with metal studs several inches in front of a stud wall with sheet rock. DuraRock was not code 20 years ago for the hearth underlayment and we used something called Micore board. (not sure of the spelling) At the time the inspector implied that heat overtime changes the wood composition and it lowers its flash point. Someone was posting a week or two ago to the contrary in another thread.

 

[Jakers]

At one time DuraRock, or cement board is/was commonly used as backer for tile. I used it on the wall behind our wood stove, although it is a false wall built with metal studs several inches in front of a stud wall with sheet rock. DuraRock was not code 20 years ago for the hearth underlayment and we used something called Micore board. (not sure of the spelling) At the time the inspector implied that heat overtime changes the wood composition and it lowers its flash point. Someone was posting a week or two ago to the contrary in another thread.

he was only saying the flash point increased after the wood had been heated to a charring point many times. that meant the easily volatile gasses had been relaesed slowly and the charred surface would be much harder to ignite. if the wood hasnt been heated to the point of slowly charring, it will be super dry and easier to ignite

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Thanks.

 

[sb47]

I used a piece of R panel with a 1/2'' spacer to create an air gap between the wall (sheet rock) from the floor to the sealing. The r panel keeps all the heat from reaching the sheet rock. Sheet rock is cool to the touch no mater how hot the stove gets. Comes in your choice of decorative colors too.

 

[nandoz]

I live in crappy old house built entirely out of cinder blocks, even the floor. If it somehow caught fire, it might actually get warm in here. And the wife might quitherbitchin.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

If you follow the clearance required by the stove it's not an issue.... well provided your walls aren't made up of gas and diesel soaked newspapers or something crazy like that.


I just have the normal sheetrock wall behind my stove. I've never had the wall get much over 100*.
Even the time I fell asleep while waiting for the fire to get going and the stove top was over 900* . (woke up in a dripping sweat BTW, was 85* in the living room!)

Think about drywall, OSB, plywood, etc in an attic. 110* outside, it's probably a 150* up there. My house in Idaho had a cedar shingle roof from about 1920. It never caught fire. Sun was hot there, it'd get 110-115*. I'd wait until late at night to bring the dog for a walk and even then the pavement would still be close to 100*

I left a Craftsman cordless drive out on my truck tailgate for an hour. Went to pick it up and not only did it burn my hand but it had melted to the point it was no good!

 

[unclemoustache]

Yes- I'd like to see the OP's setup. That wood trim must be too close to the stove.

 

[sb47]

If you follow the clearance required by the stove it's not an issue.... well provided your walls aren't made up of gas and diesel soaked newspapers or something crazy like that.


I just have the normal sheetrock wall behind my stove. I've never had the wall get much over 100*.
Even the time I fell asleep while waiting for the fire to get going and the stove top was over 900* . (woke up in a dripping sweat BTW, was 85* in the living room!)

Think about drywall, OSB, plywood, etc in an attic. 110* outside, it's probably a 150* up there. My house in Idaho had a cedar shingle roof from about 1920. It never caught fire. Sun was hot there, it'd get 110-115*. I'd wait until late at night to bring the dog for a walk and even then the pavement would still be close to 100*

I left a Craftsman cordless drive out on my truck tailgate for an hour. Went to pick it up and not only did it burn my hand but it had melted to the point it was no good!

True, but I wanted an extra layer of protection. Sheet rock is fire proof, well except for the paper on the outside.
Wood would have to get pretty hot to spontaneously combust.

 

[Jere39]

Our insurance company sent an inspector to our cabin in the mountains. We already had galvanized and corrugated steel on wall floor to ceiling. He recommended another piece with clearance for airflow directly behind the stove. Our 50+ year old walls, and that fancy plywood box cover for our well pressure tank weren't ever getting suspiciously hot, but, got to keep the man happy. It does seem to reflect more heat into the room than the wall before we added it. How did people complete projects before battery tools?



Ahhh, heat: