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Lumberjack

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I was wondering what knots everyone uses to attach the end of the rope and the middle of the rope to two heavy objects, like a truck pulling another out of the mud. On the end I use two half hitches because it is easy to "break" after a heavy load, and in the middle an Alpine Butterfly or a figure 8. Anybody know of anything better. In the middle I have used the two half hitches in the middle using a loop, and it works better than a figure 8 or butterfly in the "breaking" department.
 
Bowline on bight, sometimes butterfly for midline. Bowline for ends. How 'bout bends? I've always used Zeppelin, what about the rest of you guys?
 
Talking about attaching 2 ropes to each other I use a bowline, If talking about 1 rope but need a knot in the middle, use a bowline on a bight. I can't imagine getting a butterfly loose after pulling it with a truck.
Greg
 
Bowline on end. Alpine for fixed midline generally, round turn w/2 half hitches or simirarily locked muenter for quicker adjustability, tie/untie.

Sometimes, for quickest untie slipped overhand, anchor (thanx JP), clove etc. Like skidding brush pile over hot coals for next burn.:eek:

Unless, mounts where nice, round ~4x+ larger than line, might go for simple 'wraps and traps' to 'tension less bowline' strategies depending on utility of ease, length and if extra strength, load sharing/directing from softer turn/lacing than knotting is desired.
 
JBLimb, For line to line ties I usually use a Carrick. I have used Hunters bend-which is similar to the Zepp. I usually wind up with the Carrick because I don't have to worry about remembering how it is tied-the old familiarity thing.:)
 
slipped knots

I used slipped knots everywhere possible. They are so much easier to untie. There is something satisfying about looking down and seeing the ground-guy give it a good yank. I can almost hear the sigh of relief that the knots half undone already!
 
When putting a knot under severe tension you can use the stick trick a lot of the time. Just find a stick somewhere on the job, break it into a smaller piece, stick it in where you think there will be lots of pressure, set the knot, pull, take tension off, take out stick.
 
9 on a bight for heavy pulls

to marry 2 lines for work I'll stop the end with a 9 and use a friction hitch, blakes or taught line....


This way if I pull some slack out, for what ever reason I can quickly move the hitch up the other rope if need be.
 
Young Nick got lucky enough to be introduced to Mark.

Mark probably felled guilty for all the vegitarian/tofu jokes he made at the Tree house climb ;)
 
Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
Young Nick got lucky enough to be introduced to Mark.

Mark probably felled guilty for all the vegitarian/tofu jokes he made at the Tree house climb ;)


so does that mean Mark is a guilty feller? as in fella....or tree dropper? Hmmmm...guess I betta go to the Buzz and inquire...:p
 
In large lines i think that a carrick might stay formed, but in 1/2" etc., i've always kinda made (when asked) the form it seems to me to fall into; 2 muenters grabbing each other. i like component structure of double bowline, metal link, double bowline for quick segmenting flexability lots better. For adjusting one the chain of line i'll take slack up at anchor, or at metal joint as muenter and 2 half hitches in the bight of the free tail, sometimes further pinned with a quick krab off belt loop. But still no line on line rubbing, and easily segmented at metal link. If metal joint will be anywhere within body height, prefering aluminum links (some times with flagging tape on them), high loads; krabs in parallel linking (less bend in line); opposing gates.
 
Knot Strength Chart

I read somewhere that the square knot has caused more accidents/deaths than any other bend/knot out there. If anyone actually uses this bend please discontinue. Here is a chart of a few knots and their strengths for anyone interested. Does anyone know of a more comprehensive chart out there?strength chart
 

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