Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos

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ECRUPPRECHT, thanks for the info. For now I guess I'll leave it alone until it's running tip top and then maybe I'll open up the port a little and see what it does.

By the way, I didn't mean to put down the box store saws, they certainly have their place for the person who doesn't cut enough to justify spending a lot of money on a higher end saw (like my dad). Besides, it ran and cut in a pinch while my Jonsered was waiting for new gas lines and for me to clean it out after the person I lent it to put oil in the gas tank and gas in the oil tank. So I can't really say anything bad about the cheaper saw, it's just a big difference between the two.
 
ms 200t 020t

hello all.
i see the muff mods are on ground saws,
can anybody tell me if the mod will work on ms200t, i use my 200t daily and would love to squeeze a bit more power out of it.

pictures would be great
 
A muff mod will wake up any saw that has a choked up muffler.
if the saw is quiet, it's choked off.
 
can't wait to try it now

Well guys, I finally got around to cutting a hole in my muffler and brazing on the tube I made on the lathe. I pretty much followed Andy's instructions with the exception of the brazing part. Instead of using the regular brazing rod I decided to go with silver brazing instead. The advantage of silver brazing is that it wicks into the joint like when sweating copper pipe. Before I painted it you could hardly see the solder in the joint. Don't worry silver brazing won't remelt until the temp gets over 1100 degrees F so it won't fall off when the muffler gets hot. Here are the pics of the finished job. I fired it up and retuned the carb but I want to run it in some big wood now.

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028WB "Front/downward" Facing Muffler Mod

There seems to be more help on the side discharge 028 mufflers, so I thought I'd post what I did to my 028WB front discharge muffler. It is rather open to start, with only a shroud type of baffle entering from the cylinder. I drilled a 1/2" hole in it anyway.

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Then I cut away the entire shroud on the inside of the spark arrestor screen plate.

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I did this before even knowing I was "muff modding" my saw. Bent the exit shroud so that it was at the max opening allowable under the front cover.

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The entire assembly on the saw. The exit is the max it can be without further modification. I left in the spark arrestor screen for a bit of back pressure. The saw itself is the smallest 028 made (42mm bore) but this mod allows it to pull a 3/8 16" b/c pretty well.

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Hope that any one with this style muffler won't hesitate to complete this. It made the saw alot more throttle responsive, and earmuffs are almost mandatory!!
 
I have a Husqvarna 44

What can I do to the muffler on this one?

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By my 'brief' calculations, the exhaust port at piston is ~230mm^2 (hard to calculate accurately)

So the ideal exit area would be between 184mm^2 and 196mm^2 (80 and 85%)

the existing exhaust port is 113mm^2 so I'd need to drill an additional hole that would yield an area of ~70-80mm^2

Do I just therefore drill an additional hole of between 9 and 10mm in diameter?? If so where?

Or must I port out the existing exhaust to 15mm diameter?

There isn't a spark guard at present as my guess is due to the baffled design this takes care of its self internally

Finally, is it essential to have a tube fitted or would a hole just suffice?
 
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Altered Stihl 066 muffler

So I got an 066 second hand, looks like somebody put an intake and exhaust on it! The OEM muffler is missing the cover??? The internals are complete, still has baffles and screens. Has the side port, maybe all 066 mufflers did though.

Can I just add a regular Stihl muffler cover to this?? The saw is a bit loud, and idles more like a Harley than a chainsaw, I think maybe they did not know what they were up to, or have it tuned for some oddball settings.

Still has plenty of power, I need to get a tach and fine tune things though. Trying to trade off the Max Flow filter and cover for a Stihl HD filter/cover too.

Thanks!!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16134250@N04/4514935836/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16134250@N04/4514935630/
 
So I got an 066 second hand, looks like somebody put an intake and exhaust on it! The OEM muffler is missing the cover??? The internals are complete, still has baffles and screens. Has the side port, maybe all 066 mufflers did though.

Can I just add a regular Stihl muffler cover to this?? The saw is a bit loud, and idles more like a Harley than a chainsaw, I think maybe they did not know what they were up to, or have it tuned for some oddball settings.

Still has plenty of power, I need to get a tach and fine tune things though. Trying to trade off the Max Flow filter and cover for a Stihl HD filter/cover too.

Thanks!!

I'd leave that sucker as-is. That's a "stock" factory dual-port cover. If you put a newer "stock" single port muffler/cover on it you will lose power. Wear some muffs and go cut wood!:greenchainsaw:
 
I'd leave that sucker as-is. That's a "stock" factory dual-port cover. If you put a newer "stock" single port muffler/cover on it you will lose power. Wear some muffs and go cut wood!:greenchainsaw:

Ahh, so that is what the dual port looks like, I was wondering if that was what it was. I was expecting even the Stihl dual port to have a full front panel on it, but had yet to find a real answer. Thanks!!

Trust me, I was wearing muffs, I think I might get some 30dB muffs.

It was going through 20-25 inch diameter dead red oak pretty well after I got the chain sharp....:chainsaw:
 
OK, I've been a lurker on here for a while. Read this whole post and decided to go for it on my Husky 365 special. It ended up being pretty easy on this saw since it had a removeable spark arrestor screen.

Started with this:

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Removed the spark arrestor screen:

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Took my cut off wheel and cut both sides of the deflector and heated it up with torch and bent it backwards:

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Took my die grinder and removed some material from the original hole:

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Heated the flap of the deflector back up and bent it back into place:

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Took some thicker steel and cut pie shaped pieces on both sides (had to shape on side on the anvil to fit) of the flap so it could open wider and flow better. Tacked it with my mig to avoid distortion and blowing through thinner muffler steel. The thicker steel helped from blowing through. Seamed it up and came out decent with a little work from the grinder and a forgiving flap disk.

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Taped up where the exhaust gasket mates and rattle canned it with some high temp bbq grill paint.

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Finished product:

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Back on the saw:

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Seems to run pretty good. Not as loud as I expected based on some other comments on here. Haven't gotten a chance to test in some cuts yet but I'll try and follow up when I do.

Thanks to all that posted their experience on here! Sorry for the poor quality cell phone pictures. It's what I had on me.
 
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Tiger, impressive job!! :clap:
I like the serviceable spark screen for sure! :cheers::cheers:

Well, I wish I could take credit for that but we have to give credit to Husqvarna for that. That is a stock feature on my 365 Special. It just made my job easier and I was careful to retain it by not welding it closed. It can still be pulled and cleaned.
 
I should also mention that this muffler was a hollow can type. It has no internal baffles so I did not have to split it open to open up anything internally.
 
echo

how do you do a muffler mod on a echo cs-400. ? searched but could not find any info.

maybe i did not search correctly.

thx, frogg
 

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