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Don't-B-Stumped
ArboristSite Member
sharp chain and the sweet spot in the rpm = fast cut
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
"WOT or off" was a joke from another thread.
Sweet spot in the rpm huh? You gota built in tach on that thing? Generally thats at full throttle with the correct amount of pressure applied.
Bounty Hunter
Addicted to ArboristSite
"WOT or off" was a joke from another thread.
Sweet spot in the rpm huh? You gota built in tach on that thing? Generally thats at full throttle with the correct amount of pressure applied.
Pin it and hang on! 
olyeller
ArboristSite Guru
Home Depot rental
If it's truly occasional use, then rent a Makita 6401 from Home Depot as needed. Also check with these folks to see if they're selling used 6401s. Many members here have purchased such saws for around $200. That's the best deal for your money.
Good luck, and good hunting.
Olyeller
If it's truly occasional use, then rent a Makita 6401 from Home Depot as needed. Also check with these folks to see if they're selling used 6401s. Many members here have purchased such saws for around $200. That's the best deal for your money.
Good luck, and good hunting.
Olyeller
rms61moparman
Addicted to ArboristSite
For occasional use on bigger wood, don't tie up gobs of money on a huge saw!
Get a MS310 with a 24" bar and chain and you will be set.
It's real easy for these guys to spend someone elses money on a saw that is way bigger than you need.
If you find, later on that you are cutting bigger stuff more often than you thought, the 310 in good shape will bring dang near what you paid for it on eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeebay.
Mike
Get a MS310 with a 24" bar and chain and you will be set.
It's real easy for these guys to spend someone elses money on a saw that is way bigger than you need.
If you find, later on that you are cutting bigger stuff more often than you thought, the 310 in good shape will bring dang near what you paid for it on eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeebay.
Mike
Although I don't have one, I really like the 260, but I consider it a small saw. It would be a good replacement for your 250, but not really an upgrade in power. I don't remember the specs very well, but I'd say that if you want something that will cut noticably bigger wood than your 250, then you need to be looking at least as high as a 280, but I'd really recommend that you look at a 034/036/361/362 because it would be silly to spend money on another saw that still won't handle all of your needs. If you are convinced that you need a 260 then trade the 250 in on it and use it as a replacement.
What saw you really want/need largely depends on hwo big of a tree you really want to be able to take care of. If 20" was the biggest you were going to deal with, then I'd say get a 260 with a 16" or 18" bar and you're done. If you honestly want to be able to cut something bigger than 24", then I would go with a 50 or 60 cc saw. A 60cc saw will run 18" an 20" bars very well, and can run a 25" bar when needed with out too much effort. That will take care of trees up to about 45". It will be a real job to do it, but you'll get it done. If you want something that will handle trees that are over 36", and handle them well, then you really want to look at a 70cc saw. If you want to be able to do trees that are 48" or bigger, then you really need to look at something like a 660.
So, as you can see, you first have to determine what kind of job you want the saw to be able to do, and how well you want it to do it. Then you can deside how big of a saw you need. Generally speaking, guys seem to like a slightly bigger saw for felling than for bucking.
Since this is something that you won't use very often, I would highly recommed a used saw. A good 036 for example can be purchased for about half the cost of a new 361/362.
What saw you really want/need largely depends on hwo big of a tree you really want to be able to take care of. If 20" was the biggest you were going to deal with, then I'd say get a 260 with a 16" or 18" bar and you're done. If you honestly want to be able to cut something bigger than 24", then I would go with a 50 or 60 cc saw. A 60cc saw will run 18" an 20" bars very well, and can run a 25" bar when needed with out too much effort. That will take care of trees up to about 45". It will be a real job to do it, but you'll get it done. If you want something that will handle trees that are over 36", and handle them well, then you really want to look at a 70cc saw. If you want to be able to do trees that are 48" or bigger, then you really need to look at something like a 660.
So, as you can see, you first have to determine what kind of job you want the saw to be able to do, and how well you want it to do it. Then you can deside how big of a saw you need. Generally speaking, guys seem to like a slightly bigger saw for felling than for bucking.
Since this is something that you won't use very often, I would highly recommed a used saw. A good 036 for example can be purchased for about half the cost of a new 361/362.
gemniii
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Now that someone else has finally mentioned it -
If you need a saw for the tree you have not met yet - plan on getting a used 066/660 from a RELIABLE rebuilder later in the year.
Right now prices are climbing because it's cooling down.
I got my 660 powerhead for about $510+sh last January.
It's probably more weight than you want for frequent small use, but you probably will not want for power. And if you can hold out and get it for a good price you can probably sell it easily when prices rise again. Right now prices for completed sales on ebay are well over $600. I steered away from getting it w/ B&C because I wanted NEW B&C's.
If you need a saw for the tree you have not met yet - plan on getting a used 066/660 from a RELIABLE rebuilder later in the year.
Right now prices are climbing because it's cooling down.
I got my 660 powerhead for about $510+sh last January.
It's probably more weight than you want for frequent small use, but you probably will not want for power. And if you can hold out and get it for a good price you can probably sell it easily when prices rise again. Right now prices for completed sales on ebay are well over $600. I steered away from getting it w/ B&C because I wanted NEW B&C's.
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Watch out, big saws can be addictive!
This chance to run a 084 at a GTG in Texas
Led to my buying this 880
And of course sending both my 066 and 880 to Brad Snelling for some modding.
CAD is alive and well.
Hal
This chance to run a 084 at a GTG in Texas
Led to my buying this 880
And of course sending both my 066 and 880 to Brad Snelling for some modding.
CAD is alive and well.
Hal
discounthunter
Addicted to ArboristSite
this one or a stihl 290 would covers your needs and not break the bank.
flushcut
Addicted to ArboristSite
:agree2: Sound advice! A 60cc saw is an excellent midsize saw. As far as your restoration I would skip a saw and be thinking skid steer to rip out the root systems of the buckthorn and honeysuckle. Or are you doing some kind of cut stump treatment? Just cutting those two is not enough to get rid of them off your land they will be back quickly.
D
Deleted member 27831
Guest
I am thinking I will buy a 260 pro in the near term since this has the versitility to be used for brush clearing and would also be a good all-around saw. If I find out the 260 isn't "cutting it" I will look into a used 60 or 70cc saw. Where do you guys find good deals on used saws? It seems to me if a saw sells for $600 new someone wants $500 for a used one. Saving $100 isn't a lot when you consider you are probably purchasing someone else's problems.
As for using a skid steerer for brush clearing, some companies do that, with a rotary masticator. Some companies do that, but I think it causes too much damage to trees and leaves too much shredded debris all over that plants then have a hard time growing through, I only recommend it for totally trashed sites, like overgrown old-fields and pastures. Pulling things out of the ground is effective on honeysuckle, but causes so much soil disturbance that it probably does more harm than good. We treat all of our stumps with Garlon or glyphosate, if you don't they just sprout right back, that's what shrubs do.
As for using a skid steerer for brush clearing, some companies do that, with a rotary masticator. Some companies do that, but I think it causes too much damage to trees and leaves too much shredded debris all over that plants then have a hard time growing through, I only recommend it for totally trashed sites, like overgrown old-fields and pastures. Pulling things out of the ground is effective on honeysuckle, but causes so much soil disturbance that it probably does more harm than good. We treat all of our stumps with Garlon or glyphosate, if you don't they just sprout right back, that's what shrubs do.
nmurph
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again, if the 250 was adequate for your needs, then a 260 will work. if not, you need to step up. don't waste the $$ if you know it won't meet your needs. they are very close in power and performance. i as speaking from experience as i have run both extensively.
Trickasabrick
ArboristSite Lurker
Like some others here, I picked up a used (well used even) MS460 to use on our occasional big trees. Don't use it often, but it has more than paid for itself on the 6 or 7 trees that we have used it on. Had to put a new carb on it, but it just flat rips.
Keep an eye out on your local craigs list for used saws. I would agree, saving $100 on a $600 used saw would not be worth the risk. However, I gave $200 for my 036 a year and a half ago, and I have seen a few good 034/036 saws for that price since. I gave $385 for my 064 from the same place this summer. I wouldn't spend over half of the value of a new saw for a used one unless A.) you really do need that size of saw and if you don't by THAT used one, you'll go buy a new one anyway, or B.) You need or have been wanting a saw in that size and it's in nearly perfect condition. I don't make a living with my saws, so I never find myself in situation A, and I've not been lucky enough to ever be in situation B either. So for me, I buy old, cheap, rebuilt Stihl saws, and then I go cut my firewood 
splitpost
Nothing but 32:1
It's your livelyhood mate and you don't want to be turning work away,i agree buy a 440/460,buy once and don't look back
Threadbare702
ArboristSite Lurker
If that 250 isn't the Pro version it is a pretty crappy saw. Seems like a huge difference in the pro version from the cheap one. I had one so I know what you mean, it's currrently sitting on a shelf with a broken clutch and flywheel. Picked up a Husky 450 to replace it and it is hands down a way better saw. Got a job coming up where I will be cutting down about 85 to 100 trees with it. Pine, mesquite, and some oak most of them about 25 feet tall. I'll let you know how it holds up.
If you can get a hold of a Dolmar I Hear that the 7900 is mean son of a B and has a decent price tag. Might want to chek it out.
If you can get a hold of a Dolmar I Hear that the 7900 is mean son of a B and has a decent price tag. Might want to chek it out.
Machold
ArboristSite Operative
Have to agree with this list and the descriptions. From Solo down, you're talking about pro saws. Just got the Solo 656 and it's great: smooth, powerful beyond what you'd expect. Took the 20" off the EFCO and put it on the Solo, and added 24" to the EFCO. Got the Solo at a great price from Bailey's (shipped north across the border all in for $145 less than the CDN price). I have a Dolmar/Makita and it gets very high praise from me. Choosing between Stihl & Husky is tough (like choosing between great&great), unless you know their saws, but they have big rep and are 1&2 or 2&1 in the hearts of chainsaw people.
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SkipD
ArboristSite Member
Here's another vote for the Stihl MS 361 if you can find one. It's a VERY versatile saw, and it runs like a dream.
