Leaning Tree

[Garden Of Eden]

I've got a couple trees I need to fell opposite of their 10 degree or so lean.

A couple of them I can chain/cum-a-long to get the extra little bit. But a couple of them are standing alone, no chain. Just curious what I can do.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[arborist]

everyone's going to ask you this,so i'l be first........
got some pics?

 

[huskystihl]

Cum alongs tend to be a bit dangersous. A pickup and plenty of cable if ya have the room, if not start climbing if your comfy if not call a pro.

 

[Garden Of Eden]

I couldn't get any pics. I was only there for about an hour and I dropped a 60' spruce. As I was leaving he asked about it. The tree only deviates maybe 5 feet at the top. Maybe 75 feet tall. There are a couple of them, the both lean towards wires. I'm looking not to climb the suckers. Maybe save this guy some cash, as he'll have about 10,000 worth of work for me if I play it right. The bid will go up higher than he'd like if I have to climb.

I know come-a-longs suck, but they give me that little bit when I'm not 100% sure. Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Tree Pig]

a lot of option depending on the trees. climb and top to a height safe to drop, rope and wedge, wedge and side rope... ETC ETC

 

[Garden Of Eden]

There are sporadic trees near this one, but this one happens to be the 'front' one. so it has to go last, as I'm going to anchor o it to pull the rest down. I got a decent chain fall, I should probably use that, huh? The come-a-longs are just too danged easy, and fast. lol

Probably a 30-35" diameter oak. straight as an arrow too. Just grew a little sideways. Already have the logs sold, so maybe I'm climbing now. lol The guy wants HUGE pieces he says. lol God knows how big HUGE is. His words were the bigger the more $$. So my goal is to drop the whole tree, limb it, and call the guy. lol We'll see.

Any other tips, I'm open.

Jeff

 

[huskystihl]

There are sporadic trees near this one, but this one happens to be the 'front' one. so it has to go last, as I'm going to anchor o it to pull the rest down. I got a decent chain fall, I should probably use that, huh? The come-a-longs are just too danged easy, and fast. lol

Probably a 30-35" diameter oak. straight as an arrow too. Just grew a little sideways. Already have the logs sold, so maybe I'm climbing now. lol The guy wants HUGE pieces he says. lol God knows how big HUGE is. His words were the bigger the more $$. So my goal is to drop the whole tree, limb it, and call the guy. lol We'll see.

Any other tips, I'm open.

Jeff

10 deg isn't impossible unless its leaning 10 deg and setting on a hillside. Open your notch up a bit more than normal and use at least 3 wedges, start your backcut into the lean and wedge as you go and pound them often. A truck would give ya that extra piece of mind but you should be alright.

 

[True Blue Sam]

If you can build in 30 inches of room between the hinge and the backside, and the tree is 75 feet tall, you have a 30 segment tree, which should allow you to handle something more than 10 feet of backlean. 10 feet would need around 4 1/2 inches of wedging, so you will get tired of swinging your hammer, but it can be done if the tree has strong hinge wood. Take a look Here.

Of course, with a power line figured in you have to do a super-safety assessment, but you know that. Good luck!

 

[outofmytree]

If you can build in 30 inches of room between the hinge and the backside, and the tree is 75 feet tall, you have a 30 segment tree, which should allow you to handle something more than 10 feet of backlean. 10 feet would need around 4 1/2 inches of wedging, so you will get tired of swinging your hammer, but it can be done if the tree has strong hinge wood. Take a look Here.

Of course, with a power line figured in you have to do a super-safety assessment, but you know that. Good luck!

I checked out the series of photos on the link TBS.

The techniques you used may be beyond some posters here. Nice looking job btw.

GoE. No Pictures?? Puhllleeeeeez!!! I aint talking until you ante up.

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

If you can build in 30 inches of room between the hinge and the backside, and the tree is 75 feet tall, you have a 30 segment tree, which should allow you to handle something more than 10 feet of backlean. 10 feet would need around 4 1/2 inches of wedging, so you will get tired of swinging your hammer, but it can be done if the tree has strong hinge wood. Take a look Here.

Of course, with a power line figured in you have to do a super-safety assessment, but you know that. Good luck!

:agree2:

Yeah, 30 segments + 5' lean + 30" ABH + sound stem = should be 'doable'. Here's a couple of links you probably already know - good review, anyway.
http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/log...ts/special_techniques/special_techniques.html
http://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pdf/ec/ec1124.pdf

True Blue Sam Really like your wedges cut from the stem - I always cut my big wedges from limbs - good idea, good job, nice pix!!!

Speaking of which ...

No Pictures?? Puhllleeeeeez!!!

:agree2::agree2:

Pix would really help! I assume from your posts that you can't get a vehicle where you need it but you do have an good anchor where you need it. Could you put a block on the anchor and redirect the pull line to a vehicle somewhere else?

If not, here's a trick that's worked quite successfully in such situations. Rig a cable or bull rope high in the tree and to the anchor. Then attach a large billet (+200#) to the middle of the bull rope. Haul the rope tight to raise the billet 10' or more off the ground. That puts a lot of tension on the tree. As the tree falls the billet will keep tension on the line until the billet hits the ground. By then, the tree should be well on its way to where you want it. It works really well to direct a fall.

 

[Komitet]

is this what you're refering to as a come along? http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=1514

we use the rope pullers at work with 3 strand tree master and have pulled some sizeable trees with a lot of lean beside powerlines about everyday, good investment, although they are slow.

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

is this what you're refering to as a come along? http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=1514

we use the rope pullers at work with 3 strand tree master and have pulled some sizeable trees with a lot of lean beside powerlines about everyday, good investment, although they are slow.

That Maasdam rope puller has been on my shopping list for some time. I think I'll get the package deal with 150' Tree Master next time I need to replace a bull rope. Wespur's price is a little cheaper. http://www.wesspur.com/Pullers/rope-cable-pullers.html#rigkit

However, I have a Lug-All come along:
http://www.lug-all.com/pages/cableratchmed.php
Beautiful device, cost a fortune but I had a bad experience with the hardware store variety. I was loading a tree to fall uphill and the pin in the 2-part block failed (way under rated load) - pulley missed my head by inches. Could have taken out all of my teeth or all the rest of my life. Threw the thing way and bought the Lug-All the next day. So beware of cheap come alongs.

I only use it when I can't get my ATV or truck winch involved. Even then I have a wireless remote to operate the winch so I can be out of harms way. Where possible, I avoid being in line with any highly tensioned rope or cable.

Very true, come alongs ARE slow - but SOMETIMES, SLOW IS GOOD.

 

[Komitet]

for work all of our equipment is break tested, I believe the maasdam broke with a 5 foot bar on the handle and 2 guys on it, if I can find my books I can give you actual dyno numbers. I believe it was aroud 2000 lbs MBS if I recall.

 

[Metals406]

If you can build in 30 inches of room between the hinge and the backside, and the tree is 75 feet tall, you have a 30 segment tree, which should allow you to handle something more than 10 feet of backlean. 10 feet would need around 4 1/2 inches of wedging, so you will get tired of swinging your hammer, but it can be done if the tree has strong hinge wood. Take a look Here.

Of course, with a power line figured in you have to do a super-safety assessment, but you know that. Good luck!

Is that you in the video in the link?.. If so, why do you put your backcut well below the face cut?

 

[True Blue Sam]

Quote (Is that you in the video in the link?.. If so, why do you put your backcut well below the face cut? )

Answer That is a logger I know near Fairfield, IL. He starts his back cut level with the corner of the front cut, and angles down slightly toward the center of the tree. His cuts from opposite sides always intersect, leaving a smooth butt with no bypassed wood hanging on the end of the log. He has a circular sawmill, and uses this style of cut to prevent wood being launched by the head saw. I wish he would wear chaps....

 

[Metals406]

Quote (Is that you in the video in the link?.. If so, why do you put your backcut well below the face cut? )

Answer That is a logger I know near Fairfield, IL. He starts his back cut level with the corner of the front cut, and angles down slightly toward the center of the tree. His cuts from opposite sides always intersect, leaving a smooth butt with no bypassed wood hanging on the end of the log. He has a circular sawmill, and uses this style of cut to prevent wood being launched by the head saw. I wish he would wear chaps....

The picture below is one example of several in the video... He's a few inches below the intersection of the face... Not starting an argument, just pointing out the obvious.

Cutting below the face is not a good practice to teach others.

 

[Garden Of Eden]

GoE. No Pictures?? Puhllleeeeeez!!! I aint talking until you ante up.

Ok, ok, ok. I'll snap some tomorrow, and cut on sunday. lol It's a bit of a drive, but I'm going that way so...

Posting soon,

Jeff

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

Ok, ok, ok. I'll snap some tomorrow, and cut on sunday. lol It's a bit of a drive, but I'm going that way so...

Posting soon,

Jeff

Looking forward to the pix.

If you're going to cut on Sunday, be careful - sounds tricky. You've had some good advice on this thread - best of luck.

AIN'T NOTHIN' LIKE LUCK!

 

[True Blue Sam]

The picture below is one example of several in the video... He's a few inches below the intersection of the face... Not starting an argument, just pointing out the obvious.

Cutting below the face is not a good practice to teach others.

Jason's face cut is wide enough that the tree can rotate to the ground with the hinge intact, and his hinge is well made, so I can give him a pass on minor variations in his style. He is in hardwoods that tend not to hang like conifers, and he has good aim. His partner on the skidder appreciates the low stumps. Jason is multi-lingual in cutting methods and can handle himself in any situation. He currently is logging out timber pushed over from a big wind event, with lots of hung-up trees.

Listen to his partner tell about taking a class from an 'expert' in Kentucky:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgnLQ24pVGM

 

[SINGLE-JACK]

Oooo! Controversy - cool!

The picture below is one example of several in the video... He's a few inches below the intersection of the face... Not starting an argument, just pointing out the obvious.

Cutting below the face is not a good practice to teach others.

:agree2:
Gotta side with Metals406 here. Back cut below the face cut puts the hinge in tension as soon the fall begins. The hinge needs to flex and not go into tension 'til the face closes. A back cut slightly above the face cut allows the hinge wood to act more like a hinge. Conceded, it is less of a problem in hardwood - still contrary to recommended practice.