Lets talk cut off saws

[Johnnysef]

Okay folks, I know that we're usually talking about chainsaws here, but how different is a cutoff saw really? I guess where I am going with this is I am fishing for some information about cutoff saw performance and what can be done to improve it. I recently picked up an old Stihl TS 360 carcass and have been slowly tracking down the parts to put it back together as a fun project while I wait to work on my 046 Mag. I also picked up a Tecomec piston and jug and have plans to so a little port work, but nothing too crazy. I am really thinking about just cleaning up the transfers, polishing the intake and exhaust, and run it as is. I've got a few questions for you all, and like I said above I am looking to learn.
Has anyone else ever built one of these saws specifically?
Does anyone have experience running a stock one?
Has anyone ported a Stihl cutoff saw and willing to share some info?
Does anyone have any parts for either a ts 360, ts 350AVE, or a BT 360?

 

[Guido Salvage]

Alex Cagle is who you need to talk with.

 

[Justsaws]

In general the life span of a cutoff saw would deter most from wanting one that was ported, pair that with the various types of limiters used and the giant spinning discs of death and dismemberment again most would probably pass.

Most blades, wheels and discs come with a max rpm rating, not really looking to go faster than that. Most saws mount the various types of cutters to an offset arbor, not really looking to speed that up.

Most folks I know rebuilding them currently use the cheapest AM kits possible simply to save $.

Other factor being chainsawing stuff up is almost always more enjoyable than multipurpose sawing stuff up. Going to ponder this for a awhile and see if there has ever been a time that being stuck on the MPS was as fun some of the worst chainsawing I have done. So far, no, MPS work is work, chainsawing is enjoyable work, typically.

 

[alexcagle]

Just use a latest Stihl 49mm cylinder kit, stock, with a base gasket. The vibrations of cutoff saws don't bode well with base gasket "deletes".
They are designed and geared to be torque producers.
Designed in the early 60's. Not really a high power saw, but a tough design.


Those saws limit the RPM, so the cutoff wheels don't exceed their designed ratings and explode.
The TS360 is the same engine, but with an AV system, and back handle.
Haven't ported either one before, and
I don't recommend modifying one either. They are Stihls most litigated product.
They are inherently dangerous.

So are chainsaws, but they are different.
A cutoff saw is like a grinder.
You wouldn't "hop up" an electric one of them to make it grind faster would you?
The only time you might want added power is with a water line that still has water in the pipe.
That generally requires a TS700 or a K970 Husqvarna and a 14" abrasive wheel.
This one pulls a 14" wheel very well. Plus it has the taller front foot to raise and keep the wheel elvated off the ground.

 

[rob066]

This is my saw. It has sawed hundreds of feet of lines in flagstone. It has also cut up a crap load of steel. I want to move up to a k970. The is because I do one pass cuts in the flagstone with a 14 inch blade to the arbor. A 970 will give me a little more zing.

 

[alexcagle]

The K970 II is an awesome saw.
*
The only recommendation I have is don't ever use any air filter but an OEM one.
Those chinese filters just plain suck. They are barely better than no filter at all....lol
*
The only shortcoming it has is that the throttle shafts wear out premaurely.

 

[Johnnysef]

Thanks for the replies, and I definitely agree that these saws can be very dangerous, and I agree that chainsawing work is much more enjoyable than multipurpose work. I spent some time behind a Stihl TS 800 cutting reliefs in driveways one summer, and I own a Homelite XL 98 that I try very hard to not have to use. I would much rather cut firewood....
I suppose that I should have clarified my thoughts on port work a little better. I do not want to make the saw turn more RPM's, since that is unnecessary based on the limitations and danger of the blades. What I was thinking is more along the lines of increasing the torque and keeping the power band within the desired RPM range. I am probably thinking to much on this, but I figured that since the saw is apart, now is the time to make any modifications. It is also very unlikely that once I get it assembled and running that I will ever take it back apart, especially to do any cylinder work. Maybe I should just put the saw together and get back to modifying chainsaws.

 

[alexcagle]

Those TS700/800's are beasts.
I have one demolition customer who has 48 of them. Lots of fun......

 

[Johnnysef]

Those TS700/800's are beasts.
I have one demolition customer who has 48 of them. Lots of fun......

Wow that's some serious demo work to need 48 saws.

I will update this thread as my project progresses

 

[rob066]

Those TS700/800's are beasts.
I have one demolition customer who has 48 of them. Lots of fun......

How do the ts700s seem to be? Im between a k970 and ts700. I have good luck with my k760 which is a series ll. That directs me toward the k970.

 

[alexcagle]

The K970 is a couple hundred cheaper, but has same power, and a bit lighter and smaller. I'd rather run a K970, they are more compact.

 

[Johnnysef]

I have not had much time to work on the saw, but I did get the case split, cleaned, and the bearings removed yesterday. I have been slowly cleaning parts as I have time and I realized I do not have the manifold that connects the carburetor to the air filter. I believe that the Stihl number for the manifold is 4201 141 2200. If anyone has one in their bone yard and can help me out, please let me know.

 

[farmer steve]

I have not had much time to work on the saw, but I did get the case split, cleaned, and the bearings removed yesterday. I have been slowly cleaning parts as I have time and I realized I do not have the manifold that connects the carburetor to the air filter. I believe that the Stihl number for the manifold is 4201 141 2200. If anyone has one in their bone yard and can help me out, please let me know.

do you know what type of ignition is on it? bosch or SEM?

 

[nenicu]

What do you guys think about Partner K1200-II? I'v got one and the engine is very hard to turn over. Thanks.

 

[Johnnysef]

do you know what type of ignition is on it? bosch or SEM?

It does not have points so I am thinking it is SEM

 

[Conquistador3]

What do you guys think about Partner K1200-II? I'v got one and the engine is very hard to turn over. Thanks.

I think the engine was the same as the Partner P100 chainsaw. Electrolux kept this cut off saw in production for quite a few years after buying Partner, and some parts swap over with later Husqvarna cut-off saws such as the K1260.
As these saws have a well deserved reputation for performance and reliability, it's pretty widespread with many still in regular use. It's a great machine and spares can still be found without selling your soul to the Devil.

 

[alexcagle]

I have not had much time to work on the saw, but I did get the case split, cleaned, and the bearings removed yesterday. I have been slowly cleaning parts as I have time and I realized I do not have the manifold that connects the carburetor to the air filter. I believe that the Stihl number for the manifold is 4201 141 2200. If anyone has one in their bone yard and can help me out, please let me know.

*
I have several of those TS360 intake rubber elbows.
Just PM me. Thx

 

[Johnnysef]

Its finally time for an update.

I have not been able to work on my projects for a few weeks, as life seems to have its way of slowing things down. Anyway, all the parts are now clean, or at least clean enough and I have started reassembly. The crank, new bearings, new seals, and jug are all back together. As Alexcagle suggested, I used a gasket at the cylinder base; granted I chose to make a thin one, but its sealed nonetheless, and we will see how it works. I decided not to get carried away with the cylinder and that all I did was smooth off the cast marks and fix the shape of one transfer port. I was told by an older fellow once that good enough really is good enough, and sometimes good enough is better.
I did install the ignition and flywheel, but I am not getting any spark, or light in my tester when I spin it over by hand, so it looks like the next thing I need is to source another ignition module.
If anyone has a line on one I would sure appreciate it.

 

[Conquistador3]

If it uses the same ignition module as the TS350, there's presently a SEM ignition module on eBay: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stihl-TS350-...819321?hash=item25d014e179:g:9qoAAOSw4CFYrT~8

 

[Johnnysef]

After long wait I finally remembered to post the final update on my project thread about getting the cutoff saw running.

I will pick up where my last post left off and update the timeline. The original coil had shorted open and was no longer lighting the plug forcing me to search for another. I managed to come across an SEM ignition sometime back in March and installed it shortly after it arrived, probably in early April. The carburetor was clean and rebuilt and with all the other intake parts waiting in a box for installation since before I found the dead ignition. I realized that I had forgotten to track down the throttle cable mounting plate for the carburetor when I started installing the intake parts. After a couple of quick searches, I did not see one, so I fabricated one that works. I have been using the saw "as needed" since late May, most recently yesterday, so far using about 1 and a partial metal cutting blades. I can say the saw runs pretty well but is certainly not the most fuel efficient thing I have ever been behind. The era that it is from does not lend itself to high fuel efficiency and I am sure that there is still some break in on the engine components. I still like it better than dad's old Homelite plus its not as deafening...

Any recommendations for good cutoff blades? Both fiber and diamond for metal or concrete, or experiences with what you've used would be appreciated.
The two wheels that I have run so far are just unbranded cheapies that were on the clearance rack at the local Farm and Fleet store. We needed some in a hurry for the Homelite one weekend and they do not seem to last very long, but they were cheap and I do not feel I have been cheated for the money.


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