Leyland Cypress HELP PLEASE
- Thread starter czeigler
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treedoc1
ArboristSite Lurker
no
Like most conifers the needles/foliage doesn't remain attached and green forever. Think white pines later this season, or hollies right now.
Increase the mulch area at the base to keep the mower and weed wacker away.
The tips are where brown or yellow foliage will indicate a problem.
Like most conifers the needles/foliage doesn't remain attached and green forever. Think white pines later this season, or hollies right now.
Increase the mulch area at the base to keep the mower and weed wacker away.
The tips are where brown or yellow foliage will indicate a problem.
avalancher
Arboristsite Raconteur
My cyprus looks just like yours, the gradually turn brown at the base of each branch, then they jusf fade away until they are all dead. I have 80 of them planted along my drive, and every once in awhile one will start to do exactly what you have pictured until it just dies away.
I took one of the branches to the local extension office, and the clown there told me that it is some type of fungus that is killing them off, and told me to spray early in the spring, and several times during the summer. Needless to say it had no effect whatsoever.
I have lost almost twenty of my trees, and have had to pull them out and replace them and hope for the best. it seems that once they get over 3ft tall or so, they dont seem to have a problem.
I took one of the branches to the local extension office, and the clown there told me that it is some type of fungus that is killing them off, and told me to spray early in the spring, and several times during the summer. Needless to say it had no effect whatsoever.
I have lost almost twenty of my trees, and have had to pull them out and replace them and hope for the best. it seems that once they get over 3ft tall or so, they dont seem to have a problem.
COLD_IRON
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do you water your trees? And if so how often?
I planted about 80 of these in the last year and I have them on a watering system and they are green and growing fast. Fertilizer helps as well.
So far I haven't lost any of them, but I will have to remove a few because the upper part of the tree grew more than the trunk and now they are too top heavy.
I planted about 80 of these in the last year and I have them on a watering system and they are green and growing fast. Fertilizer helps as well.
So far I haven't lost any of them, but I will have to remove a few because the upper part of the tree grew more than the trunk and now they are too top heavy.
I do water them, i use a soaker hose. I accidentally cut a section of it last year and replaced it with a sprinkler hose that i had laying around. The trees that were in that 50' section really grew. They are about 6" taller than the other ones. I also fertilize twice a year with 10-10-10.
We had really bad ice over the winter and it coated my trees about 3-4 times. It broke one of the trees and i had to replace it. I just mulched my entire line of trees and as time progresses they seem to be looking better.
avalancher
Arboristsite Raconteur
I water mine as well, the sprinkler for the lawn system waters them right along with lawn. I use evergreen fertilzer as well, according to what I read online they like a fairly acidic soil. I did a soil test, and added the proper amount of fertilizer up to what the tests indicated that they need.
Like I said before, some do real well, I have most of them that have grown over a foot a year, but when they do get sick, nothing seems to help them.
Like I said before, some do real well, I have most of them that have grown over a foot a year, but when they do get sick, nothing seems to help them.
Lumberjacked
ArboristSite Operative
roots....its all about the roots. Those little saplings were grown in either a soiless mixture in a pot or in a tilled field in very loose airy soil. I could be wrong but I doubt you made those holes much bigger then you needed to plant each seedling. You can water and fert all day long but that root system is struggling to push its way through that compacted soil. What you should do is take a rototiller in the fall and make a path right behind those saplings and transplant them into that tilled soil. Theeeen lay your soaker hose down the middle with your fert. I will guarentee those things will grow like crazy. If they are not in a line use a ~8" auger and spot treat.
jtrent
New Member
In the Southeast, we're having a problem with Leylands that have a canker
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/Ornamental/odin17/od17.htm
Roots are the key, and good soil conditions help roots establish themselves. But, if something else is going on like a disease, you may need to take other measures.
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/pp/notes/Ornamental/odin17/od17.htm
Roots are the key, and good soil conditions help roots establish themselves. But, if something else is going on like a disease, you may need to take other measures.
jtrent
New Member
Also, it is very important that you sterilize the pruning tools after each cut to prevent the spread to other areas of the same tree or to adjacent trees or even trees on other jobsites- see NCSU link for details- hope you save them!
