Lickity Splitter Hyrdaulics Question

[pyro2]

Some simple questions for an old Lickity Log Splitter EK308 that my grand-father in law had. I've done some basic work to the Kohler K181 engine, but may need to concentrate on the hyrdaulics a bit.

1. Hydraulic loses most of its power at the end of stroke. So much it won't split most logs past 1/2 way through. Most times I have to put a piece of wood on the ram so the cylinder doesn't have to extend so much. I'm hoping I just need to add hydraulic fluid, which seems a little low. I think it needs another inch or so, with 3-4" already in the tank. Is it typical I will lose power at end of stroke if fluid is low?

The cylinder is leaking very slightly, but not enough to do anything about it. It's very very slight and can only be seen after a few hours of splitting.

2. Most people are saying not to add hydraulic fluid and just replace it all, but I really don't want to pay for that much fluid and to get rid of the old. I took some fluid out and its a light yellow color and fairly thin like water. I think this is just normal hydraulic fluid but I am not sure. If I find some locally, do you think its safe to just top off the tank? Can I use "jack oil" meant for hydraulic car jacks? I think this usually comes in 1 gallon containers if I can find it locally.

 

[loadthestove]

I took some fluid out and its a light yellow color and fairly thin like water.

I'm probably wrong,but I've never seen any yellowish colored hydraulic fluid,sounds to me like you have a load of water in your hydraulic tank.Drain it out and replace it with a quality hydraulic oil or even Automatic transmission fluid and see if your problem doesn't clear up.

 

[isaaccarlson]

its bad....replace it all. I know you don't want to but its better than destroying your splitter. Fill it up and it should go away. The only other thing it could be is a REALLY bad gouge in the cylinder wall letting fluid past.

 

[RYAN5000]

GET THE HYDRAULIC OIL OUT NOW
YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO USE 30W MOTOR OIL IN A LICKITY AS FOR THE LEAK ALL LICKITY LEAK OUT THE FRONT THAT IS WHAT THEY ARE MEANT TO DO ONE TO TWO DROPS PER STROKE .
YOU MIGHT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH YOUR RAM RETURN CABLE CHECK BOTH CABLE AND CABLE SHEAVE.
THE OIL SHOULD BE FILLED NO LESS THAN A HALF AN INCH FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE BREATHER CAP THREADS ALSO CHECK YOU SHOES AND GUIDE PLATE MAKE SURE THE SHOES ARE NOT TO TIGHT.
THERE BOLTS SHOULD BE SNUG BUT NOT REAL TIGHT THE PLATE SHOULD BE WEARING EVEN ACROSS THE BEAM THERE SHOULD BE LITTLE OIL ON THEM THAT IS WHY THE LICKITY DRIPS TO KEEP A SMALL AMOUNT OF OIL ON YOUR BEAM YOU ARE STILL USEING BRASS SHOES I HOPE LICKITYS DO NOT WORK GOOD WITH STEEL SHOES.

BY PUTTING CLEAN OIL AND FILLING IT UP RIGHT SHOULD SOLVE THE PROBLEM IF NOT THEN YOU MAY HAVE TO LOOK AT O RINGS BOTH INNER AND OUT CYLINDERS RINGS IF YOU NEED I INCLUDED A PART LIST AND BREAK DOWN FOR YOU
<a href="http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/LONGLOMPOC/?action=view&current=LICKITY3.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/LONGLOMPOC/LICKITY3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><P><a href="http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/LONGLOMPOC/?action=view&current=LICKITY2.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/LONGLOMPOC/LICKITY2.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><P>
<a href="http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/LONGLOMPOC/?action=view&current=LICKITY1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o70/LONGLOMPOC/LICKITY1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[tomtrees58]

yup 30 w oil i had a ek308 still have some parts change the filter to tom trees

 

[pyro2]

Wow, thanks for that great information on the ek308 model! That's impressive that information exists out there. I think I searched the entire internet, and didn't find much. I'll PM my e-mail, maybe you can send the entire document.

I did more research, and I believe hydraulic fluid is supposed to be light yellow or amber color. Therefore the fluid in my tank is not bad. It looks exactly like the fluid on the right:

Source: http://www.plantservices.com/articles/2004/391.html

I will replace the hydraulic fluid with a 10W30 oil. I found out a local service shop that originally sold those splitters put the hydraulic fluid in. So I'm wondering what the difference is between real hydraulic fluid and 30W oil.

I dont think my model drips any more than a few drops on the beam and therefore nothing is wrong there.

A few other questions:

1. When replacing the oil, how do I get all the oil out of the hoses and cylinder, etc.
2. Any special way I need to prime the oil through the hoses, etc?
3. What is a tom trees filter? Can't find any reference on google.

Thx!

 

[ericjeeper]

3. What is a tom trees filter? Can't find any reference on google.

Thx!

A tom trees filter LOL It is a specialized filter, that uses no punctuation.
Tom just said he had parts left over, enough to add a filter.

 

[tomtrees58]

A tom trees filter LOL It is a specialized filter, that uses no punctuation.
Tom just said he had parts left over, enough to add a filter.

not a filter but return cable o rings for the ram and new back plait for the ram you can get a filter at napa tom

 

[triptester]

The reason a manufacturer will require hydraulic fluid or motor oil will depend on what is compatible with the seals used. Using the wrong fluid or oil may deteriorate the seals.

If the fluid level is too low there will not enough fluid to push the piston all the way out.

In order to get 95% of the fluid out you would have drain the tank, remove all hoses, and turn cylinder so ports are facing down than manually extending and retracting the cylinder.

When changing fluid if the pump is below the fluid level in the tank no priming is necessary.

Fully extending and retracting the cylinder, with the engine idling, about 10 times will purge the air from the system. Fluid level should be kept about an 1 1/2" below top of tank.

 

[tomtrees58]

wen you take off the piston it comes a part from the back its not like any other ones tom