Log arch behind small tractor?

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dave_dj1

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I have use of a small 4 wd Massey tractor with a 3 point hitch and I'm wondering if I should build a log arch or just use the 3 ph?
I have a piece of recently logged property that has literally tons of firewood just laying there for the taking. Owner has given me carte blanch access to it. The log roads are in very good condition and the tree tops I will be taking are basically withing 20-30 ft from the roads. When I say tops, it's not like your typical top, these were close trees so long and small tops, I'll just clip the small stuff off and drag the log be it 10' or 20' out to a cutting/splitting area and load in the dump trailer.
I've been reading Jim's log arch thread and it looks to be the cat's meow for an atv. so I was thinking it could work for this small tractor.
thanks,
dave
 
I use the 3 point hitch on my little Deere with good success. I would guess that it would be much more maneuverable than pulling a log arch around. Also I don't have to leave the seat to hook up and go. The boom is removable with just two pins. The frame also supports removable forks from an old fork lift. The top link is a hydraulic cylinder - this is a must for convenience.
Ron

IMG_2552.JPG IMG_2553.JPG IMG_2554.JPG
 
rwoods, how would that set up work without the hydraulic cyl? I know hydraulics would be better but will it work "ok" without it?
That set up looks perfect and I already have some tongs I made.
Thanks for sharing that, I love having ideas to roll around and think on.
I'm going to pick up the tractor tomorrow and hopefully have something ready to go by Saturday morning. I extended the wood offer to a buddy of mine and we plan to get as much as we can before the snow flies, I don't want to be in there after it snow, it can wait. LOL
thanks,
dave
 
That looks like it works very well but my little JD750 would be doing wheelies all the time unless I would through a lot more weight on the front end. I am in the process of building a log arch for my atv and I can still use my 3pt for some of the smaller stuff.
 
If you're only pulling tops out to a skid trail, I wouldn't think a light front end would matter much. Only lifting one end of the log also reduces the weight transmitted to the hitch. Picking even a light 20' log from one end and completely lifting it puts a lot of leverage into the hitch. Think of a big cheater bar.

Something I like about the winches is the ability to pull logs from a pile. Logrite's manual winch makes that a tedious and slow process, but the electric's go pretty quick and you can sip your beer while doing it. :)
 
rwoods, how would that set up work without the hydraulic cyl? I know hydraulics would be better but will it work "ok" without it?
That set up looks perfect and I already have some tongs I made.
Thanks for sharing that, I love having ideas to roll around and think on.
I'm going to pick up the tractor tomorrow and hopefully have something ready to go by Saturday morning. I extended the wood offer to a buddy of mine and we plan to get as much as we can before the snow flies, I don't want to be in there after it snow, it can wait. LOL
thanks,
dave

I had to go with a boom with my little Deere so I could get enough lift as I use it to lift rounds that are 30" plus. The hydraulic top link is not necessary but it allows you to "reach" back and grab a log - less tractor positioning required. Using the forks, it is very important as I have twisted a heavy duty carry all frame like a pretzel multiple times and I twisted the current frame badly due to a fork sticking into a log or the ground. When I reinforced the frame, I broke the linkage. Careful use of the cylinder eliminates most of those headaches.
Ron

That looks like it works very well but my little JD750 would be doing wheelies all the time unless I would through a lot more weight on the front end. I am in the process of building a log arch for my atv and I can still use my 3pt for some of the smaller stuff.

My previous tractor was a 4wd 750. I had 190# bars on the front as a weight and bumper, and I had fluid filled tires all around. I skidded a few times with it but without a boom just a flat draw bar and a chain - (it had the tall skinny AG tires and may have lifted higher than my current tractor) - but your right with a boom you aren't going to lift much. Despite the relatively low lift rating, I skidded several 16 foot 24" pine logs with it. I also broke one of the lower lift arms off at the hole where the link attaches doing this so I would not recommend it for any log that large.
Ron

PS to Dave and Labdad: All my skidding is on relatively flat ground.
 
looks like a great plan

as for hydraulics,it depends on the tractor, but you can run them on the rear remotes if you have them or from the FEL hydraulics. it is just a ram that replaces the top link. sometimes know as the top part of top and tilt
 
If you already have a Quick Hitch adapter on your 3-point, you can add a logging hook to the hook on the top of the QH adapter.

There are also ways of doing this with hooks on a drawbar.

As always, the closer to the ground and closer to the rear of the tractor, the less likely you are to pop up the front end or flip. And remember that trees can snag on the ground and slight grades can be deadly.
 
Well I brought the tractor up to the property today and pushed some brush and cut some Hickory limbs , enough for 2 pickup loads. When I dropped the first load off I brought the splitter back with me. Tomorrow I just need to bring the dump trailer up. The tractor does have a QA and after taking off the back blade I just used a couple of chains wrapped around it and worked like a charm. If it was mine I would weld some hooks right to it.
dave
 

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