Log Splitter Detent Valve Fix /Upgrade question?

[wdanforth]

I bought this homemade log splitter. Replaced the tired B & S with a 5 hp Honda.


Splitter works but if I hold the lever to far in either direction I stall the motor. Don't know much about hydraulics, but learning a lot from a few smart people around here. There is one allen wrench adjustment possible under a cover with four screws. May be I have to decrease the release pressure??? Do I turn it left for less?


Any help would be great.

:computer2:

Thanks
Bill

 

[Mike Van]

Bill, the reason it's stalling is you're dead heading the hyd. fluid at the end of each stroke. Either you have no relief valve, the valve isn't working, or the hoses are wrong. It looks to me to be the hoses are wrong from your pics - The metal pipe to the front of the cyl is right, but the one to the rear should go from the cyl to the other port on the top of the valve, not tee'd to the tank. Also, it looks like a 'power beyond' valve, I can't see where that hose goes though. Don't mess with the Allen screws - You need to get this fixed, sooner or later it will stress the system so much something will fail [as the pump splitting in half] Someone here will know what you have to do -

 

[mga]

Bill, the reason it's stalling is you're dead heading the hyd. fluid at the end of each stroke. Either you have no relief valve, the valve isn't working, or the hoses are wrong. It looks to me to be the hoses are wrong from your pics - The metal pipe to the front of the cyl is right, but the one to the rear should go from the cyl to the other port on the top of the valve, not tee'd to the tank. Also, it looks like a 'power beyond' valve, I can't see where that hose goes though. Don't mess with the Allen screws - You need to get this fixed, sooner or later it will stress the system so much something will fail [as the pump splitting in half] Someone here will know what you have to do -

good call, mike. but, the one hose coming out of the control valve (near the handle) confused me.

one port for the pump to valve

one port for the valve to tank

one port for push

one port for pull

so...what's the extra hose/port being used as? would that be some sort of by-pass port?

northern tool has some nice prince valves (LS 3000) that are fairly inexpensive.

 

[Blowncrewcab]

If I'm reading this right it sounds like you are able to stall the motor before the cyl reaches the end just by moving the spool too far, if thats the case theres probably some parts missing in your valve. the spool shouldn't move far enough the block the port. someone may have removed a detent or something.

 

[kevin j]

appears to be an exposed spring on the end opposite the handle. There should be a cap over that. The cap also has means to limit stroke of the spool, as bcc noted.

 

[wdanforth]

Dead Heading the Cylinder is what is happening

MGA,

I do have the extra (5th) line/port that loops back to a T returning to the tank. tion Already been researching the Prince LS3000. Download the pdfs showing it installation. Thats when I noticed my Valve had 5 ports not 4.

Another concern is there is no Oil filter on the return line. All of the creation I've seen on here all have one.

Just split three cords of mostly oak last week. Sure would like to have peace of mind it will continue to work in the future.

More pics:

Kevin:
I removed the cover to examine that allen adjustment. My thinking a little adjustment there might fix my problem.

 

[ray benson]

The valve looks like it is a Gresen. The relief setting on a Gresen is an allen screw that is located where your small hose screws into the front of the valve. The top 2 ports on the valve would go to the front and back ports on the cylinder.

 

[mga]

wdanforth...i noticed it's hard piped as well. at first glance they look like copper pipes, but i'm sure if they were, you'd know it by now.

what kind of steel was used for them?

and, hey....a few minor corrections and it should work well for you. sure beats swinging an axe......don't it? lol

 

[wdanforth]

wdanforth...i noticed it's hard piped as well. at first glance they look like copper pipes, but i'm sure if they were, you'd know it by now.

what kind of steel was used for them?

and, hey....a few minor corrections and it should work well for you. sure beats swinging an axe......don't it? lol

I do not know the type of steel. The one mystery line with the zip strips leading to the T isn't steel.

There is one copper fitting I used to redirect exhaust away from the cylinder.

Bill

 

[drmiller100]

some valves have what is called "power beyond."

so, the pump runs to the valve. if the valve is not working, the hydraulic fluid is sent on along to another valve somewhere else in the system. I use it on my processor.

In your case, the valve is probably setup as power beyond, but you don't need it, so they plumbed it into the return, which is the correct thing to do.

I believe all those lines to be copper. Use it while you can, eventually the vibrations will cause the lines to crack and break. makes a mess, but probably won't do much else.

if it were mine, i'd give serious though to changing the line that goes to the back end of the cyldiner to a high pressure line.

 

[kevin j]

I think the lines are not copper, but steel, just rusted. There appear to be flare sleeves showing just back of the nuts. So they look like steel with 37 degree JIC/SAE flare. Perfect.

The power beyond connection sounds accurate. There is usually a plug inside the valve that is taken out to convert by connecting PB with the Tank line inside, then only need the one hose. It is an extra hose now, but since it is already there, I'd leave it alone.

The orignial issue: Move the spool just part stroke and try it, both directions. If it stalls, other issues. If it works fine at part stroke, the spool is stroking too far in the bore and blocking off the P or T line. If the spool blocks the lines, the oil should go across relief valve, and engine should labor but keep running.

If it actually stalls the engine, then either a. Relief valve set too high or b. engine is too small for pump or c. engine is tired and not provide full hp.

k

 

[wdanforth]

I think the lines are not copper, but steel, just rusted. There appear to be flare sleeves showing just back of the nuts. So they look like steel with 37 degree JIC/SAE flare. Perfect.

The power beyond connection sounds accurate. There is usually a plug inside the valve that is taken out to convert by connecting PB with the Tank line inside, then only need the one hose. It is an extra hose now, but since it is already there, I'd leave it alone.

The orignial issue: Move the spool just part stroke and try it, both directions. If it stalls, other issues. If it works fine at part stroke, the spool is stroking too far in the bore and blocking off the P or T line. If the spool blocks the lines, the oil chousl go across relief valve, and engine should labor but keep running.

If it actually stalls the engine, then either a. Relief valve set too high or b. engine is too small for pump or c. engine is tired and not provide full hp.

k

They are steel lines. I will leave extra line alone. Works fine with partial stroke. I will try to adjust the relief valve. The old engine was a very old Briggs 8 horse. May be I do need a bigger Honda.

Thank You all for your valuable input.

Bill