Log splitter project!!!

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Welded the toung on today and wired up battery!...fired up first click...nice!
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And my favorite part of this splitter build up.........electic start baby!!!

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You might need to go into the splitter business. Very clean.:cheers:
 
You might want to weld some bumps or something into the face of the end plate to keep the wood from sliding off. Split right has little pointy stubs for sale that will put a stop to any slippage.

Extremely nice splitter though! I desperately need one. How much to build me one? :)
 
You might want to weld some bumps or something into the face of the end plate to keep the wood from sliding off. Split right has little pointy stubs for sale that will put a stop to any slippage.

Extremely nice splitter though! I desperately need one. How much to build me one? :)

Hi BK,
I will weld something on the foot to keep the wood from slippage...will start that when finished with beam shelves :) thanks
 
Nice looking splitter and super "clean" work.
However, how thick is that foot? I had one on my splitter that was 1 inch thick and we broke the thing right off about 1 inch above the weld. (Now we laminated about 20 - 1/2x2x20 inch flat stock together to make a foot that is 2 inches thick. The only thing bad about the foot on my splitter is it weighs about 50#!! :dizzy:)

I think the reason the "foot" on the vertical splitters bend/break is because sometimes the big round only presses against the very end of the foot. When this happens there is a tremendous amount of pressure at the end. Be forewarned.
 
Nice looking splitter and super "clean" work.
However, how thick is that foot? I had one on my splitter that was 1 inch thick and we broke the thing right off about 1 inch above the weld. (Now we laminated about 20 - 1/2x2x20 inch flat stock together to make a foot that is 2 inches thick. The only thing bad about the foot on my splitter is it weighs about 50#!! :dizzy:)

Unless it's aluminum... a foot that is 2x10x20 would weigh over 100#!!
 
Nice looking splitter and super "clean" work.
However, how thick is that foot? I had one on my splitter that was 1 inch thick and we broke the thing right off about 1 inch above the weld. (Now we laminated about 20 - 1/2x2x20 inch flat stock together to make a foot that is 2 inches thick. The only thing bad about the foot on my splitter is it weighs about 50#!! :dizzy:)

I think the reason the "foot" on the vertical splitters bend/break is because sometimes the big round only presses against the very end of the foot. When this happens there is a tremendous amount of pressure at the end. Be forewarned.

Hey suz, In post #4 I said its 1.5" thick but might move up to 2" thick if there's a problem ;) ...thanks
 
Instead of gripper spikes why not a piece of 1/2 thick stock 1" wide welded the full length of the end plate directly in line with your ram wedge. Bevel it so it creates a second wedge. Split it from both ends.
 
Instead of gripper spikes why not a piece of 1/2 thick stock 1" wide welded the full length of the end plate directly in line with your ram wedge. Bevel it so it creates a second wedge. Split it from both ends.
Hey fall, thats a good idea, but not sure if I want to go that route....still thinking about it though.
 
more eye candy!

Got the draw bar plate done for securing the beam and beam slide.

Next step are the protective cages for the engine and filter....

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Great Idea on the cage for the engine... I was going to suggest moving it to the other side of the beam... but looks like you've got it covered (no pun intended :) )

Great looking machine!
 
Unless it's aluminum... a foot that is 2x10x20 would weigh over 100#!!

Maybe that is why my splitter got awfully light on the hitch after we put the big foot on. :)

Since we put the big hunk of metal on the back of the beam I've put a boom lift on the front and some additional weight like the jacks. Now we have enough tongue weight to travel down the highway at 60 mph without bobbing and weaving.
 
Very nice design! Just one general design question: WHY is mounting axles to the tank so popular? I have no reason to believe yours isn't plenty stout to handle it, but I'd wonder how stout some of the commercially made ones are.

I'd think long term that catching wheels on rocks, stumps, and whatnot out in the woods could eventually cause a tank failure when it's used as a structural member.

There is a lot of unused space on a lot of designs in front of the axle to mount a tank, and use a torsion axle and get a little suspension for a bonus.

FWIW, my splitter (horizontal only) has the tank mounted above the back of the ram.
 
Nice job

Woodsman44 you do very good work. What are the overall dimensions of this beast. I like your idea of using larger tires, how much are those axles rated for, being 6 lug.

Beefie
 
Very nice design! Just one general design question: WHY is mounting axles to the tank so popular? I have no reason to believe yours isn't plenty stout to handle it, but I'd wonder how stout some of the commercially made ones are.

I'd think long term that catching wheels on rocks, stumps, and whatnot out in the woods could eventually cause a tank failure when it's used as a structural member.

There is a lot of unused space on a lot of designs in front of the axle to mount a tank, and use a torsion axle and get a little suspension for a bonus.

FWIW, my splitter (horizontal only) has the tank mounted above the back of the ram.
Hi Steve, yep mine is stout 1/4" 6x8 fluid reservior...but I do have an AXEL under the fluid reservior, from one end to the other 1/4 thick wall...SUPER STRONG!

Store bought is a different story...they just weld stubs to fluid reservior on some models, seen em bent up and broken off... not all models have this though.
 
Woodsman44 you do very good work. What are the overall dimensions of this beast. I like your idea of using larger tires, how much are those axles rated for, being 6 lug.

Beefie

They are rated to 3500lbs each...should hold up to those bummpy dirt roads.

thanks
 
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