Log splitter valve help

[MuskokaSplitter]

Hi Guys. Grandfathers log splitter which I'm using more now. From what I understand he and a friend built it in the 70's.
I put a new motor on it a few years back and everything does work. Just Im thinking I want to update it with some newer parts.
Only major problem is I have a rope to hold the splitter valve to start. Doesn't seem to be an open center.....not really sure.
Also thinking of a newer pump rather than the belt drive.
The cylinder also leaks and not sure if it's worth rebuilding.
Thanks,
Kevin.

 

[nathan4104]

For what it’s worth
If the pump works, I’d leave it alone! You’ll be into it for several hundred dollars of princess auto junk for a new pump and the mount. More if you go to better quality.
the valve is an easy and not too expensive first step. The cylinder, well, that little bit of oil just helps lube the rail . Machine shop could do the cylinder for likely $50-100. Most places have a minimum time charge..... if you can get seals yourself it may not be a hard job.

 

[sean donato]

I've never seen a closed center splitter. They typically would use an axialmpiston pump for that. When the pressure hits the set limit the swash plate centers and effectively stop pumping. There is something wrong with your valve or a major choke point somewhere in the system if it's that hard to start, as the fluid should just be circulating back to tank when sitting idle. I will confess mine pulls over a tad harder and slower then other engines that dont have that constant load, but has never been a deterrent to get it to fire up. The hydraulic shop I use local to me has decent turnaround, but typically a repacking starts at $75.00 and goes up from there. For a few smaller cylinders it was cheaper for them to get me replacements then salvage the old cylinders. I personally dont get too worked up if a cylinder has a small seep to it. Like mentioned above, just keep things lubed up imo.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

When running and splitter valve is in center the engine loads up and pressure relief is used as the bypass from what I can tell.

 

[REJ2]

Your grandpa had some real nice skills!!

 

[kevin j]

When running and splitter valve is in center the engine loads up and pressure relief is used as the bypass from what I can tell.

If that’s true, you have a gear pump running on a closed center valve. The engines at full load all the time in neutral and it’s going to be a massive heat generator. the tank will overheat in probably five minutes. When it’s moving the cylinder either direction, then there’s no difference. it’s only when it is in the blocked neutral position.
has this machine run that way before or for a long time? How did he get by with it?

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

We operate it with 2 people most of the time one person always moving the ram in and out. Usually push the ram a little farther through the wood. Then a longer return stroke gives me time to grab more wood lol. And if I'm by my self I usually have a pile of wood right beside it so it's in center for as little time as possible.

 

[triptester]

I would get a standard splitter control valve . The pump looks like a MTE 2-stage pump which with a new pump mount can be direct coupled to your newer engine eliminating the belt drive.

 

[rancher2]

If the pump is making plenty of pressure and is a speed you happy with I would just replace the valve with a new open center detent on return like 9-1262 at Surplus center. If the cylinder is just seeping I would worry about rebuilding it until it really is leaking. Looks like a nice built splitter.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

Yea think I'll start with a valve and go from there. Direct drive to the pump is an idea I thought about but not sure the engine has enough power for that.

 

[sean donato]

Yea think I'll start with a valve and go from there. Direct drive to the pump is an idea I thought about but not sure the engine has enough power for that.

Just look up your pump specs and see if they match up to the engine output. I'm running 16gpm 2 stage on 9 hp currently.

 

[kevin j]

Does the valve have any ID on it? Some valves, not commonly done though, have an internal plug to separate the center core from return. With plug = closed center. Remove plug = open center. (Well technically, tandem center, but most people call it OC. OC is really P-T-A-B all connected. )

 

[triptester]

Yea think I'll start with a valve and go from there. Direct drive to the pump is an idea I thought about but not sure the engine has enough power for that.

If the pump has a four bolt mount pattern it is most likely 16 gpm or smaller.

 

[muddstopper]

The pump looks like a Vickers vane pump. From the sound of it the valve is closed center.. If the fluid was bypassing the relief it probably wouldnt make enough pressure to split the wood. If the relief is bottomed out it should build pressure and kill the engine. Since you haven't mentioned the engine dying or being bogged down, I suspect the vane pump is bypassing internally Nothing wrong with using a vane type pump, but if the control valve is a closed center, you are only burning up the pump and scorching your hydraulic oil. I would change the control valve for a open center valve FIRST. Then if you decide to go with a 2 stage pump in the future, you can size the pump to your engine and use a direct couple and mount. The disadvantage of using the Vickers vane pump is that it is one flow rate ( that can be regulated using engine speed) and will require more hp to produce the same flow as a 2 stage pump. Also, and I am not sure of this, but most of the smaller ones I have seen are not rated for the 3000 or 3600 rpms that you motor needs to turn to produce it rated hp. I cant tell from your pictures, but it looks like the engine pulley and the shaft pulley are about the same size, so I dont think there is any fancy gear ratios being done thru the pulley sizes. Also it looks like the pump mount is a 2 bolt design and I suspect a size A bolt pattern.

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

When in netruel or center position the engine does load up. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. It loads up and the pressure regulator acts as the return.....
So I am going to get a new valve and go from there.
Thanks for all the help so far