Long bar chainsaw case question

[FlyingDutchman]

Does anyone have luck getting a MS290 with a 25" bar into a chainsaw case of some kind? Only looks like the case Stihl sells one for a 20" bar.
This was the closest thing I could find to hold one... Maybe. Caveat is, I don't have the bar on the saw yet so I don't know total overall length.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ECHO-ToughChest-24-in-Chainsaw-Carrying-Case-99988801211/203767303

 

[Woodslasher]

For bars over 18 inches I just get a bar cover rather than a case, although you could just use the case body and put whatever bar cover length you want on the bar itself.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Woodslasher, I agree, this would be my solution. But the fella it's for cuts out of an SUV and wants to keep the smell/mess out of the cabin, and also be able to keep the saws outside in an lean-to shed without being affected by moisture as much etc.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

That's a long bar for a smaller saw.
Does it oil it ok?

Seems like I recall Stihl recommending an 18- 20" bar. They often had .325" too, could option 3/8" though.

Stihl has scabbards for longer bars, could do that.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Upgrading the oil pump to a 390 piston and it has a 390 p&c kit and a port job as well as switched to .325 which frees up a bit more power. Runs a 20" with authority so far.

 

[babybart]

I have a 372xp with a 24" bar in that exact case. If that helps.

 

[OddSawz]

I can’t speak to whether the saw will fit, but the Husqvarna Powerbox can fit a 24” scabbard. Seems similar in size to the echo. Says it fits a 576xp, which seems much bigger than an ms290 (I think).

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Husqvarna-18-25-in-Chainsaw-Case/3260193
https://www.baileysonline.com/husqv...k8B63Qi_NN1nzrUIUbr1wSq8K5Udy_NYaAqL1EALw_wcB

 

[Hand Splitter]

It will fit in the stihl case, but it’s a 2 piece case, the case and the bar scabbard are 2 separate pieces.

now I wish the had a case that fit big saws with big felling spikes!

 

[FlyingDutchman]

It will fit in the stihl case, but it’s a 2 piece case, the case and the bar scabbard are 2 separate pieces.

now I wish the had a case that fit big saws with big felling spikes!

It does fit up to 20" it says. I have one of those Stihl cases but it doesn't enclose completely with a 24" bar attached supposedly. So far, it's looking like the Echo power box.

 

[Justsaws]

The 1127s were capable of running 24” bars as long as the chain was well maintained. The ones that were used commercially with 24” bars all had case damage from the mounts bottoming out. Deep pockets worn into the plastic. Most cases were still useable for a second if not third cylinder set, however that much time being bottomed out means the operator dealt with a lot of extra vibrations.
If a person chooses to run a 24” bar the upgraded drum and bearing set is also recommended as the wee original bearing did not hold up as long and could do some damage when it goes.
24” bar is when I consider .325 to be at the end of its typical grinder sharp ability. Leave the depth gauges alone for the most part, and keep a sharp chain on the saw.

In terms of a case, never saw one that would keep the stink out of an SUV. The large plastic storage totes or lockers would be easier to find, probably cheaper. The upside to those is they fit two saws and perhaps the fuel and oil jugs, etc. Black bottom section with yellow lids, Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc sell them.

 

[Philbert]

I have purchased generic ‘Powerboxes’ at Menard’s and Northern Tool. Also modified some insulated coolers and Rubbmaid to make cases for larger saws. I will have to search for the threads.

Scabbards come in longer lengths, if you don’t mind the colors.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Some photos in this thread:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/carry-case-for-a-large-saw.202923/
Philbert

 

[FlyingDutchman]

The 1127s were capable of running 24” bars as long as the chain was well maintained. The ones that were used commercially with 24” bars all had case damage from the mounts bottoming out. Deep pockets worn into the plastic. Most cases were still useable for a second if not third cylinder set, however that much time being bottomed out means the operator dealt with a lot of extra vibrations.
If a person chooses to run a 24” bar the upgraded drum and bearing set is also recommended as the wee original bearing did not hold up as long and could do some damage when it goes.
24” bar is when I consider .325 to be at the end of its typical grinder sharp ability. Leave the depth gauges alone for the most part, and keep a sharp chain on the saw.

In terms of a case, never saw one that would keep the stink out of an SUV. The large plastic storage totes or lockers would be easier to find, probably cheaper. The upside to those is they fit two saws and perhaps the fuel and oil jugs, etc. Black bottom section with yellow lids, Home Depot, Lowe’s, etc sell them.

What do you mean my the 1127's?

The saw was one I built for brush felling with a ported Chi-com top end and west coast bucking spikes that a friend took a fancy to. Its on its second cylinder and does tree work and firewood part time for a living. The 25" big bar is mostly for occasional use on larger stumps. When using the 20" felling it already struggles to oil it.

I have multiple people telling me that the Stihl saw simply won't oil a 25" bar. This thread says different. https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/increasing-ms290-oil-pump-output.345652/> Thinking about modifying the existing piston with a bigger eccentric myself.

Hadn't thought about the anti-vibe, when I rebuilt the saw I didn't replace any of it and it does seem a bit weak.

I guess the bigger issue is to know from him how often he's going to use the 25" bar. I have a Stihl case laying around made for a 20" bar already... If he's just going to swap the 25 for rescue and stumps why go nuts.

 

[Justsaws]

1127 is the series of saws that include the 029, 029S, 039, 290, 310, 390. It is the number that is on the parts specifically produced for those models. For instance the crank bell will be labeled 1127 while the rod will have 1125(034-360).

Some oilers were anemic, some were not. 24” bars were not uncommon on those saws around here, 20” being the most common.

 

[FlyingDutchman]

Customer wanted to be able to switch the bars back and forth with his 026 for rescue duty so he was stuck on .325. Stihl and nobody else I checked makes a roller tip .325 25" long unless he wanted to go hardnose. The extra bar length wasn't worth it to him.

I had a Stihl case laying around that fit the saw and the 20" bar just fine that I didn't need and he went away happy. Thanks everyone for the ideas!