Look what I found!

[lly_duramax]

I am gonna make one tonight. We are in the middle of nowhere so I cant run to the parts store and pick up a puller. I made a cardboard template of the hole spacing and I'm gonna drill and tap the center of it to use the jackbolt from the harmonic balancer puller. I'll try to get some pics of it up when i'm done. Thanks.

 

[lly_duramax]

Here is what I did at work tonight.

Flywheel puller using the harmonic balancer jackbolt

New chainbrake handle I fabbed out of 1/4 ss tubing

 

[Rookie1]

New chainbrake handle I fabbed out of 1/4 ss tubing

Thats a nice looking handle. Im very impressed.
Nice job on the rebuild,keep pics coming.

 

[lly_duramax]

I got the saw all cleaned up tonight but didn't get any pics. I am thinking since I have it torn down this far I would like to go ahead and split the case and replace the crank bearings and seals. The bearings feel tight to me, but they look pretty gritty. Anyone have any pics of a homemade case splitting tool? I am thinking about fabbing something tomorrow night. I was thinking about using the bar studs to mount it and using the harmonic balancer puller jackbolt to split it. Anyone have any pointers?

 

[willbarryrec]

Nice find first off.

Try searching for "case splitting" should come up with tons of stuff...
And I'd say with your fabbing skills you should be able to come up with some thing very easily.

When I had to split my 2100 a few months ago the hardest part was getting the flywheel off and then the case almost fell apart with my really funky case splitting tool that I made...sorry I don't have a pic handy but really you just need to attach to the bar bolts and "push" on the crank..

Oh and also if you haven't yet check the bay for parts,I was able to get new bearings and seals for about $45-50 if I remember correctly.

Good thread!

 

[lly_duramax]

Nice find first off.

Try searching for "case splitting" should come up with tons of stuff...
And I'd say with your fabbing skills you should be able to come up with some thing very easily.

When I had to split my 2100 a few months ago the hardest part was getting the flywheel off and then the case almost fell apart with my really funky case splitting tool that I made...sorry I don't have a pic handy but really you just need to attach to the bar bolts and "push" on the crank..

Oh and also if you haven't yet check the bay for parts,I was able to get new bearings and seals for about $45-50 if I remember correctly.

Good thread!

Thanks for the info. I have stayed away from ebay since I got screwed there several years ago, but it looks like I wont be able to finish this project without it. Where are you located in VA? Thanks

 

[lly_duramax]

Well guy I got to work on the saw a little last night and I think I screwed up. I tried to pull the flywheel and the 5mm threads pulled right out. No problem I thought, so I just tapped them out to 1/4-20. I thought a little heat would help so I soaked it down in Kroil oil and put the torch to it for about 30 seconds. The flywheel came right off, and that when I realized that I melted the springs off the starter pawls. Anyone have any idea where I can find new springs. I'll try to get some pics up in the morning.

 

[ChainsawmanXX]

Chainsawr Search

You might find what you need here. Tons of parts here. You might also try calling i don't think they have everything up on the computer
Great score though! Looks like she'll be a great runner!

 

[lly_duramax]

Here are the pics.

 

[lly_duramax]

I found the crank seals and the starter pawl springs on Chainsawr. I am still looking for the chain brake band and crank bearings. Thanks for the help.

 

[chrisoppie]

Nice project progress, good luck
Getter' Done!
:chainsawguy:

 

[moparman]

I found the crank seals and the starter pawl springs on Chainsawr. I am still looking for the chain brake band and crank bearings. Thanks for the help.

Don't buy your crank bearings from Husqvarna, just take your bearings to a Bearing store. The bearings should have the bearing size and internal clearance on the side of the outer race. Tell them that you want a quality bearing like a SKF, FAG, Nachi, etc. If they can't find the bearing size on race, they can quickly measure it and supply the correct size. If they can't find the clearance code on side of race, tell them that you want a C3 clearance - this is the normal clearance for most chainsaw crank bearings. You should be able to buy the same bearing for less than half the cost of Husqvarna.
As dirty as that saw was, I wouldn't take a chance of destroying engine for the cost of a couple of bearings.
Good luck on brake band - they are not as easy to find.

 

[lly_duramax]

Don't buy your crank bearings from Husqvarna, just take your bearings to a Bearing store. The bearings should have the bearing size and internal clearance on the side of the outer race. Tell them that you want a quality bearing like a SKF, FAG, Nachi, etc. If they can't find the bearing size on race, they can quickly measure it and supply the correct size. If they can't find the clearance code on side of race, tell them that you want a C3 clearance - this is the normal clearance for most chainsaw crank bearings. You should be able to buy the same bearing for less than half the cost of Husqvarna.
As dirty as that saw was, I wouldn't take a chance of destroying engine for the cost of a couple of bearings.
Good luck on brake band - they are not as easy to find.

Thanks for the info i'll give that try.

 

[rmh3481]

You should be able to split the case using the access holes there on the flywheel side. Should be 5 or 6mm. Or you can use a piece of angle iron across the bar studs with a two jaw puller to push the crank out of the case. Use a heat gun to warm the magnesium at the bearing race and the case will pull off the bearing. A torch will burn the paint off. If no heat gun is available, you can hang a large flood light an inch from the case to warm it. Magnesium expands faster than steel. Take your time.

Once you locate your seals, bearings and a case gasket, put the crank in the freezer overnight and put the bearings in the oven on 250f for 15 minutes before you plan to assemble. The bearings will then drop right into place onto the crank. Then assemble the crank to the case by warming the case. Use the case bolts to pull the two halves together. Seals go on last once cool.

Here are a couple of threads which may help;
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/131284.htm
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40590-2.htm

Site sponsor Baileys Logging Supplies should have parts.