Looking at a new, used saw...

[L.R.]

This has probably been discussed before on this forum, but I am in the process of getting my first new-but-used saw. I have two questions for those of you who are already done with your holiday shopping.

I am searching the forum for information, but while I do that I'd like to hear some personal opinions or experiences.

If you don't want to play that's fine, but there are so many people on here whose opinions I value, I just couldn't PM them all.

So, here goes:

1. What do YOU specificallly look at when you look at a used saw? I'm thinking as a KEEPER, not to resell.

2: If the saw was an early nineties Husqvarna XP saw, say a 242, a 268 or even the mighty 3120, what would you look FOR, or look to AVOID?

Thank you in advance;

L:R

 

[Freehand]

This has probably been discussed before on this forum, but I am in the process of getting my first new-but-used saw. I have two questions for those of you who are already done with your holiday shopping.

I am searching the forum for information, but while I do that I'd like to hear some personal opinions or experiences.

If you don't want to play that's fine, but there are so many people on here whose opinions I value, I just couldn't PM them all.

So, here goes:

1. What do YOU specificallly look at when you look at a used saw? I'm thinking as a KEEPER, not to resell.

2: If the saw was an early nineties Husqvarna XP saw, say a 242, a 268 or even the mighty 3120, what would you look FOR, or look to AVOID?

Thank you in advance;

L:R

First I look for missing parts.Bolts and fasteners being pretty minor,but missing air filter covers,etc.,especially on the big saws can run into some money.Compression second,gotta see at least 150 lb's. A Schrader valve comp tester a must.Beware,the comp tester doesn't tell all.A saw can blow a 160 lb on the gage,and be scored all to hell.A peek in the spark plug hole or better yet the exhaust port will tell you if you have glass smooth or a straight gassed mess.All these factors dictate my offer price.Generally that's 50% of full retail on a low mile CLEAN saw.

The "200" series Pro Husky saws are always a good buy IMO,provided they meet the price point mentioned above.

I tend to avoid big saws (100cc+) missing major parts unless we're talking DIRT CHEAP.I also avoid any and all homeowner clamshell saws (read ms 290,husky 141 etc.)unless in absolutely pristine condition with a crackhead asking price.

Hope this helps,cheers.

 

[bigredd]

I avoid saws that have been restored. Some are put together from a bucket of bolts. Also avoid beat up looking saws, which indicates lots of hard commercial use. Old saws are another category I avoid, which can be very costly for parts and service.

In fact, mint/new condition, non-commercial use saws at bargain price is what I look for. Some dealers have occasional sales. Also can sometimes snag a good deal on Ebay or Craigslist if your patient. Here's my latest score.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...zq9o1gQ%3D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I suppose if you are a chainsaw mechanic, reviving an old beater may be cost effective if the price is low enough.

 

[Freehand]

I avoid saws that have been restored. Some are put together from a bucket of bolts. Also avoid beat up looking saws, which indicates lots of hard commercial use. Old saws are another category I avoid, which can be very costly for parts and service.

In fact, mint/new condition, non-commercial use saws at bargain price is what I look for. Some dealers have occasional sales. Also can sometimes snag a good deal on Ebay or Craigslist if your patient. Here's my latest score.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...zq9o1gQ%3D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I suppose if you are a chainsaw mechanic, old beaters are what you look for.

Big plus one.There are a few key builders on this site I would buy a resto from.Other than that it's like buying used cars with some shady shadetree proclaiming "like new ,rebuilt".By whom, with what parts, and what level of skill did the mechanic bring to the build?


And also a notice to the guys in the trading post forum with ads reading "Rebuilt saw,tried my hand at porting,not pretty but it works" IS NOT a selling point.Rookie port the saws you intend to keep,and leave the sellers ALONE.

 

[L.R.]

Good advice from both! I have emailed the seller saying I'm thinking about the saw, and asked if I can take the muffler off to look at the piston. If he doesn't go for that, well, no sale.

I would probably have forgot to bring the compression tester without the reminder, big thanks!

The saw is listed as "professional saw" and "like new", and both look to be true from the admittedly so-so picture. Price seems OK for an early nineties saw. If we are at all lucky, and there is some justice left in the world, this topic will have pictures by the end of the week!

No promises, though, seller has left a very short description, and says to call for info. Not sure who or what I'm dealing with here, but let's all hope for the best.

L:R

 

[bigbadbob]

Meeting the seller in person if you can, that will say a lot to.

 

[rms61moparman]

A lot depends on your levels of mechanical ability, expertise and comfort.

There are some around here that can buy an incomplete bucket of bolts and make a screaming firewood saw out of it.
Others are more like me and can hardly keep a brand new saw running.

Do you want a "turn key" firewood saw?
Expect to pay more for that privilege.

On a Husky broken fins in the recoil covers are VERY common. While one missing here or there usually isn't a big issue in the useability and function, more than a couple in one place can be trouble.

Smell the fuel tank.
Start the saw and let it idle for a few minutes.
Pick it up and roll it from side to side and front to rear while it is warn and idling.
Pull the plug and look at the color, is it carboned up badly?
Hold it WOT and check the oiling system.......2 or three times, anybody can squirt a couple of shots of oil into the bar rails when they know you are on the way to see the saw!


Mike

 

[L.R.]

More useful info!

I feel I can comfortably disassemble and reassemble a saw, have workshop manual for this model Husqvarna (thanks to ST!!!) and pretty much all the tools I need. The saw is listed as in "like new" condition, so I'm looking for this to be a runner.

I'll change the bar and chain, air and fuel filters, and plug on general principle, and clean it up before use. This is a small cc saw, and it will ride in the car with me as a backup saw and general collectors item/plaything. The price and model justifies some small parts for it, like maybe a new muffler and brake band, stuff like that.

I was going to get a 353 for my 346 sleeper project, but that fell through. This saw is older, but a well respected model as far as I can tell. If it turns out to be TOO nice, I may be willing to sell it to someone in more need of it and get something else to play with. Before the seller replies, I'm only dreaming here.

Thanks for all your input, none the less!

L:R

 

[fearofpavement]

Buying any engine driven contraption used is always a risk since in most cases once the payment takes place it is your baby.

That said, my ideal "find" is a saw that a homeowner purchased to clean up storm damage. Sometimes in the case of an ice storm or other widespread damage, all the cheap saws will be gone and a homeowner that would have been happy with a Wild Thing will wind up with a commercial or mid-range saw. They use it for the cleanup job and then put it in their garage for a few years since they have no other use for it. Then another big branch breaks out of the tree and they get the saw out, look in the tank and see most of the gas is gone and has left a goo in there but they fuel it up and dang thing won't start. It has obviously gone bad from disuse so they figure they'll try to sell it after taking it to the local shop and finding out what it will cost to clean/replace the carb etc. So it shows up in an ad and looks new but a non runner.

Those are the saws I like to find...

 

[L.R.]

Buying any engine driven contraption used is always a risk since in most cases once the payment takes place it is your baby.

That said, my ideal "find" is a saw that a homeowner purchased to clean up storm damage. Sometimes in the case of an ice storm or other widespread damage, all the cheap saws will be gone and a homeowner that would have been happy with a Wild Thing will wind up with a commercial or mid-range saw. They use it for the cleanup job and then put it in their garage for a few years since they have no other use for it. Then another big branch breaks out of the tree and they get the saw out, look in the tank and see most of the gas is gone and has left a goo in there but they fuel it up and dang thing won't start. It has obviously gone bad from disuse so they figure they'll try to sell it after taking it to the local shop and finding out what it will cost to clean/replace the carb etc. So it shows up in an ad and looks new but a non runner.

Those are the saws I like to find...

That is, more or less, what I'm hoping for, but I am trying my hardest to be realistic...

 

[rayvil01]

ebay thumbrule

I have bought 3 saws from ebay. My rule of thumb is that it will cost between 50-75% of the purchase price to get it "right." And, that's using OEM parts. I would not buy one off of there assuming it was anything other than a restoration project.

Having said that, if the time is available for the restoration work, you can score a good saw. I've got a ebay Husky 395xp out here that I have less than $500...and it is a beast. I can't imagine being without that saw. $175 of that is parts.

It is an option, with plenty of risk. But, an option nonetheless. If you do go that way, pick a seller with a good rep. Good luck.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I always check the fuel tank for cracks or leaks. Also check the oiler to make sure she oils good. Checking the comp and the inside of the cylinder through the exhaust port is a must. I never buy anything if I can't talk to the seller in person or over the phone. I can tell alot about a person from speaking to them.

 

[mikefunaro]

Usually it's also worthwhile to feel out he seller and figure out what's going on.

Generally speaking, don't buy anything from a professional tree service or logger.

Don't buy it from someone who knows nothing about saws and bought it just to flip it or potentially stole it.

I generally look for a minimum of 20 to 25% savings over new/MSRP on ANYTHING i buy even if it is in perfect condition.

I look for at least 40% savings off of new for "very good" condition.

I look for 60-70% savings off of new for anything that is in decent, but obviously very used condition.

I also approach buying like new saws with a considerable amount of caution, there is potential for them to have some underlying problem and the owner is trying to ditch them.

Well used saws you have to assume are going to need some kind of repair, sooner or later.

Obviously you want to run them a bit and check the P&C before you buy, as best you can. But realize that you cannot find everything that's wrong, and most sellers aren't going to let you dismantle their saw entirely (I certainly wouldnt let someone start pulling a saw I was selling apart beyond a muffler etc,and even then, I'd offer to do it, perhaps).

 

[WVshooter]

Lots of good points in here. In addition to them;
-check the underside of the saw. Look for missing paint/scratches. The more wear, the more it was used and or abused.

-check the condition of the starter cord. Someone could put some pretty plastic on a saw to try to double their asking price, but they probably didn't think to replace the rope. Be cautious if a great looking saw has a ratty cord.

-try to get the chain off and see how freely the clutch drum spins. An overly rough or noisy bearing or dragging clutches could be another sign of neglect or misrepresentation.

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

[L.R.]

Lots of good points in here. In addition to them;
-check the underside of the saw. Look for missing paint/scratches. The more wear, the more it was used and or abused.

-check the condition of the starter cord. Someone could put some pretty plastic on a saw to try to double their asking price, but they probably didn't think to replace the rope. Be cautious if a great looking saw has a ratty cord.

-try to get the chain off and see how freely the clutch drum spins. An overly rough or noisy bearing or dragging clutches could be another sign of neglect or misrepresentation.

Good luck and keep us updated!

Even more good info! I hate to disappoint you guys, but seems im out of luck - the saw is gone. Seller never even had time to answer me. I even had the small toolbox packed to go see it.

I may as well confess the saw was an old 242XP, didn't want to say that before because I know some people on here would have been thrilled to see the pics if I had gotten it. I try not to kick myself too hard, but I'm hoping someone in the know snatched it and it'll get to see some use.

Big thanks to all for some very helpful tips, I'll be sure to remember them for next time. As for now it's back to looking at ads for me.

L:R:M