Looking for a decent Chainsaw sharpener?

[link]

I own all the sharpening gadgets and really all it took me was more time with a hand file. Analyzing what i was doing and taking my time made me now confident in my hand sharpening. And I get a better result than all the gadgets. I even zoomed in on ea tooth until I got it looking like factory. Sometimes even using the "wrong" size file.

Three sweeps with the file and its sharp as new and then some, but when you have done that a couple of times - it looks like a picasso painting.

 

[Philbert]

Three sweeps with the file and its sharp as new and then some,

Depends on what it looks like when you start.

Philbert

 

[Casawfan]

Hand filing is faster and gives a better cutting edge. I had an electric grinder for years, as my hand filing sucked. I finally figured it out and sold the grinder. If you are hand filing, you are there. Don't go backwards and buy a grinder.

The only time a grinder is superior is if you seriously find nails or rock the chain hard. I'm at the point of tossing such chains.

X2

 

[jamesmcsparron]

So, you're gonna sharpen your chain about a 10'th of a millimeter, and the rakers about a 20'th of a millimeter -
and thats gonna be exactly the same about 36 to 72 times ?

You don't need to be as precise as all that "10th of a mill"
The movement of the chain on the bar allows for slight inaccuracies. It's not a CNC router for gollums sake!

 

[Dangerous]

I own all the sharpening gadgets and really all it took me was more time with a hand file. Analyzing what i was doing and taking my time made me now confident in my hand sharpening. And I get a better result than all the gadgets. I even zoomed in on ea tooth until I got it looking like factory. Sometimes even using the "wrong" size file.

 

[Dangerous]

My method once I learned the terms and viewed a dozen You Tube was to get the chain tight gloves and a stable position for the chain saw . Match the angles of the kerf keep the pressure light but comfortable and count the amount of strokes (inside of the chain to the out) two or three with the same amount of pressure for each stroke .
Mark where you start sharping complete one complete side of the whole Chain . Then reposition the whole chainsaw for stability and sharpen the kerfs on the other side of the chain carefully matching the angle of the tooth . The rakers are important use a flat file gently drag it across the rakers with identical strokes and pressure count the strokes length of the file contact with the raker and the amount of pressure .
care not to remove too much raker or do it unevenly you can create a great danger to yourself with an Un balanced sharpening Job. After sharpening the I just could not wait to try it out and

I own all the sharpening gadgets and really all it took me was more time with a hand file. Analyzing what i was doing and taking my time made me now confident in my hand sharpening. And I get a better result than all the gadgets. I even zoomed in on ea tooth until I got it looking like factory. Sometimes even using the "wrong" size file.

matching

by hand matching the kerf and Pay attention to the rakers you tube has lots of good demonstrations of chain sharping by hand . Consistency and replication if the strokes and pressure applied ; stroke direction match the profile of chain . Soak the sharpened chain in motor oil agitated it get all the dirt grit packed sawdust out of the chain clean the Blade used spray brake cleaner get all the gunk out clean out all the oiling holes and passages . I’ve used moly lube on the cleaned and lubed chain to reduce friction and un lubricated metal to metal . It allows the little motor to use its power to cut wood and not have to fight friction.
Just an amateur trying to maximize the cutting power of the saw.

 

[jamesmcsparron]

My method once I learned the terms and viewed a dozen You Tube was to get the chain tight gloves and a stable position for the chain saw . Match the angles of the kerf keep the pressure light but comfortable and count the amount of strokes (inside of the chain to the out) two or three with the same amount of pressure for each stroke .
Mark where you start sharping complete one complete side of the whole Chain . Then reposition the whole chainsaw for stability and sharpen the kerfs on the other side of the chain carefully matching the angle of the tooth . The rakers are important use a flat file gently drag it across the rakers with identical strokes and pressure count the strokes length of the file contact with the raker and the amount of pressure .
care not to remove too much raker or do it unevenly you can create a great danger to yourself with an Un balanced sharpening Job. After sharpening the I just could not wait to try it out and

matching

by hand matching the kerf and Pay attention to the rakers you tube has lots of good demonstrations of chain sharping by hand . Consistency and replication if the strokes and pressure applied ; stroke direction match the profile of chain . Soak the sharpened chain in motor oil agitated it get all the dirt grit packed sawdust out of the chain clean the Blade used spray brake cleaner get all the gunk out clean out all the oiling holes and passages . I’ve used moly lube on the cleaned and lubed chain to reduce friction and un lubricated metal to metal . It allows the little motor to use its power to cut wood and not have to fight friction.
Just an amateur trying to maximize the cutting power of the saw.

The centrifugal force from the chain rotation when your saw is at full revs plus the chain oil from the saw's oil reservoir should be enough to keep the chain clean and free of dirt and debris rather than spending time soaking the chain in oil after sharpening.
The chain bar however will need regular cleaning. The groove rail needs to be manually cleaned with a thin scraping tool:-


Keeping this groove clear as well as the two small oil ports at the sprocket end of the bar, allows for even oil distribution to the chain. An air compressor is invaluable for clearing those ports as well as cleaning the rest of the saw including the air filter.
Happy New Year BTW.

 

[StumpBustersLLC]

i have done freehand for a few years now, any size chain, in situ and/or onsite, and handy for semi square grind too

View attachment 911540View attachment 911541

I'm far from Mr. Safety but, that grinder doesn't look to be up to code.

 

[Dangerous]

The centrifugal force from the chain rotation when your saw is at full revs plus the chain oil from the saw's oil reservoir should be enough to keep the chain clean and free of dirt and debris rather than spending time soaking the chain in oil after sharpening.
The chain bar however will need regular cleaning. The groove rail needs to be manually cleaned with a thin scraping tool:-
View attachment 953036

Keeping this groove clear as well as the two small oil ports at the sprocket end of the bar, allows for even oil distribution to the chain. An air compressor is invaluable for clearing those ports as well as cleaning the rest of the saw including the air filter.
Happy New Year BTW.

 

[Dangerous]

If you have the time soaking the chain in oil will not cause the metal of the chain to absorb oil but will encourage the dirt grit and wood related gunk to leave the chain. I discovered this by accident I decided to store chains in a white plastic coffee container with 1/2 inch of clean oil shook the container a few times and checked back after a few hours and was surprised with the amount of gunk that separated from chain.
the gunk Is just stuff that prevents the bar oil from lubricating the chain and the bar.
professionals time is money guys will scoff but it prevents rusting and give a little extra power to the cutting edge.
great way to store chains you not using.

 

[link]

I own all the sharpening gadgets and really all it took me was more time with a hand file. Analyzing what i was doing and taking my time made me now confident in my hand sharpening. And I get a better result than all the gadgets. I even zoomed in on ea tooth until I got it looking like factory. Sometimes even using the "wrong" size file.

I don't need to sharpen my chains many times during the winter/spring season, perhaps one or two times if I'm not careful with the moss and the dirt.
I spend about 15 minutes on each side, about 10 to 15 minutes on the rakers, and about 15 minutes to flush and oil it if it's for someone else that pays for it.
But when I'm done - except perhaps for the teeth is a little shorter, that chain is just like a brand new one straight from the store. Always exactly the same.

 

[link]

You don't need to be as precise as all that "10th of a mill"
The movement of the chain on the bar allows for slight inaccuracies. It's not a CNC router for gollums sake!

It don't take much accuracy for a chain to cut sharp, but it takes quite some steadiness for a chain sharpener to be useful - in my opinion.

 

[jamesmcsparron]

It don't take much accuracy for a chain to cut sharp, but it takes quite some steadiness for a chain sharpener to be useful - in my opinion.

My Grandfather used to say "You can lead a horse to water but you can't stick your shlong in a loaf!"

 

[link]

My Grandfather used to say "You can lead a horse to water but you can't stick your shlong in a loaf!"

My grandfather used to smile and to make a sort of confirmation sound when we talked to him, he was almost deaf. Cheers mate.

 

[link]

My first chainsharpener is still the one I use, a copy of the Jolly/Oregon, but the vice was crap - totally useless, so I made a new one:

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

My Grandfather used to say "You can lead a horse to water but you can't stick your shlong in a loaf!"

My Grandad used to make a lot of Wigwams, apparently most of them were for Gooses bridles.

 

[jamesmcsparron]

My Grandad used to make a lot of Wigwams, apparently most of them were for Gooses bridles.