Looking For A Log Jack... (need help)

[MI_Habitat]

Echoing the above, the cheap ones work well on small logs, but hell, those are easy enough to just lift and kick a log length under to hold them up.

The more expensive ones won't break as easily. I find it's most helpful as a cant hook to roll larger logs (20"-28") though and wouldn't consider using it to prop them off the ground. Cut 90% of the way through, then roll and cut the remainder. Simple!

 

[MrWhoopee]

Sorry for my absence, I decided to at least go for the cant hook for now. Have at least a few trees I will be hitting up this fall/winter that it will come in handy, probably. So what cant hook would you recommend? Or just a cheaper one would just be fine?

At the risk of repeating myself. The Northern Tool Timberjack

Northern Industrial Timberjack with Fiberglass Handle — 4Ft.L | Logging Hand Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

is simply a cant hook with a foot attachment (which I have never bothered to attach). The handle is 1-7/8 in. diameter SOLID fiberglass. You and your ten buddies couldn't break that handle. Read the reviews.

 

[REJ2]

I use the Logrite 60" peavey with log stand, in fact i dont leave home without it.
http://www.baileysonline.com/Forestry-Woodcutting/Log-Handling-Hand-Tools/Peaveys/LogRite-60-Aluminum-Handle-Peavey.axd
Logrite Log Stand | Log Jacks | Log Handling, Hand Tools | www.baileysonline.com
They went up in price over the last couple years, ive got about $110 in my whole setup.
Worth every penny in my book.

Mud season? I use a 12"x12" piece of plywood under the foot of log jack.

 

[cre10]

I have the one from Northern.

 

[Keyless Chuck]

At the risk of repeating myself. The Northern Tool Timberjack

Northern Industrial Timberjack with Fiberglass Handle — 4Ft.L | Logging Hand Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

is simply a cant hook with a foot attachment (which I have never bothered to attach). The handle is 1-7/8 in. diameter SOLID fiberglass. You and your ten buddies couldn't break that handle. Read the reviews.

Your first post didn't go unheard Now I'm stuck between the cant hook and a peavey, I'm leaning towards your recommendation right now. Going to sleep on it tonight before I make my decision. Thanks for everybody's help.

 

[Furious]

I have the Timberjack, works great when I am working alone in the snow and ice. Helps break frozen logs out of the pile and with long logs I can prop one end up and still get the other end up on another log. I don't use it all the time by any means but it always comes with me and it's one of those things that when you need it you usually really need it!!

 

[MrWhoopee]

Your first post didn't go unheard Now I'm stuck between the cant hook and a peavey, I'm leaning towards your recommendation right now. Going to sleep on it tonight before I make my decision. Thanks for everybody's help.

I have use both for log rolling. Didn't really see much difference.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

I have use both for log rolling. Didn't really see much difference.

the point on the Peavy is nice for separating large rounds that aren't quite cut though at the bottom. It works well as a big pry bar too.

 

[morewood]

I like having a peavey myself. A 5' handle and it has moved everything I can hook in to. I have used a log-rite and was impressed. I bent the metal handled log lift we had and decided I could go without. Good luck making a choice.

Shea

 

[SierraWoodsman]

Great tool for the firewood cutter

I own both the northern tool log jack, as well as the wood-chuck Timber Jack.
Both will do the job, but I much prefer the wood chuck timber jack
because it will handle bigger logs. It has a lower lifting height, but still gets the log off the
ground plenty high to keep your chain out of the dirt, and is very stable due to it dual foot design.
This tool you wont wear out, and doesn't take long
to pay for itself in saved chains/Productivity increase.
Money well spent in my opinion. :msp_biggrin:

 

[ShaneLogs]

I own a old Peavy made by Peavey MFG, an older one that is made in Bangor Maine, they moved there production to Beddington Maine in the later years so the newer ones aren't worth as much as the older ones. Still get's a good work out and works real good. I'd like to get a nice aluminum Logrite peavey or something though sometime or even a timber jack. I recommend one for sure though.

 

[Keyless Chuck]

Going to go with the Logrite Peavy (thanks REJ2), took a long time to decide :hmm3grin2orange: No rush, won't be back in the bush till I get done building this garage; so hopefully late September it's back to the saws. Thanks everyone for their input!

 

[deepsouth]

I bought a 60" logrite peavey and the log stand attachment.

I think I will be removing the log jack part as it wasn't that usable with Aussie hardwood, it would only lift 8-10" logs not anything bigger like 18" dry hardwood. Still good to try though.

 

[bazman]

Well, heres a question for everyone then. Im fairly new to the whole logging situation, but i know enough to get the work done. I was looking for a Timberjack of some sort and the so far the original one posted in this thread was the one i liked. The Woodchuck Timberjack. The Woodchuck Quad looks useful too. Now I am not dealing with the nice straight logs you guys have shown in photos.(Might be actually thinking of another thread) I am going back into the wooded area that we have cows and felling trees there of all sorts of shapes and sizes. I do the cutting down, the delimbing and the bucking all in the woods and there are several times that i need to get a log to roll over but struggle to do so because of the way the log is shaped. The ground is not necessarly flat, there are hoof prints and low spots etc etc so it also makes it hard to do the cut 90% then roll (which is what i currently do now).

So my normal method is to cut a group of trees into one area then work on taking off all the limbs. I then start to buck the trees tops that are held into the air from the way they fell. Its when i get closer to the trunks that i have the issues. So in short, would it be better to get a Cant Hook with attachable Timberjack or one of the Woodchucks Timberjack?

 

[TreePointer]

...So in short, would it be better to get a Cant Hook with attachable Timberjack or one of the Woodchucks Timberjack?

Bazman, I cut in the same type of areas on a farm. I've never used a Woodchuck, but my the timberjacks I've used do exactly what I need them to do. I mostly use them as a cant hook, but there are some occasions in which the lift the foot provides is handy. For the past few years, I've been using that Northern Tool fiberglass model and have been very pleased.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Just to Confuse the Issue

New offerings from Northern Tool.

View attachment 310969

Roughneck 5-in-1 Steel Core Timberjack with Steel Core — 48in. | Logging Hand Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment


View attachment 310970

Roughneck Heavy-Duty Steel Core A-Frame Timberjack — 48in.L | Logging Hand Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[bazman]

Thanks Tree. Im thinking I may stop by my Stihl dealer and see if he has the cant hook with stand for sale there. Im fairly impatient when it comes to something I could be using right away(prefer not to wait for it to show up in the mail). I was the same when i bought a new saw this year, an MS290 farm boss..Went out the next day after work and cut a few trees down.

 

[Philbert]

I do the cutting down, the delimbing and the bucking all in the woods and there are several times that i need to get a log to roll over but struggle to do so because of the way the log is shaped. . . . So my normal method is to cut a group of trees into one area then work on taking off all the limbs. I then start to buck the trees tops that are held into the air from the way they fell. Its when i get closer to the trunks that i have the issues.

Welcome to A.S.!

Timberjacks, Peavys, Cant Hooks, and Pickaroons/Hookaroons are all great tools, if you use them. A lot of it comes down to your personal preferences and the type of work you are doing.

What you describe sounds a little like storm damage clean up that I do with downed trees: cutting the branches and trunk sections that are up in the air first. Before I cut any limbs that are supporting the tree, I place some of the cut off limbs below the remaining trunk section, so that it falls on them, off of the ground. If you are also falling the trees, you might try to lay out a 'bed' of limbs or other trees so that the trunks are supported when they fall.

After that, you can choose whichever tool you want. You can also use a Peavy or Cant Hook to roll a trunk section up onto a line of limbs spaced for cutting, without needing the Timberjack's foot.

Philbert

 

[bazman]

Anyone use one of these?

Timber Tuff™ Wood Handle Timber Jack - Tractor Supply Online Store

How well did it hold up? The biggest tree i have down is prob about 18-20".

 

[artbaldoni]

Woodchuck Dual. Cant hook, peavey and log jack all in one. I just got one without the attachable foot. Just a hook or peavey. I love it. The thing is super tough. I moved some 2-3' diameter logs with no problem. The design allows it to bite on most logs.

Woodchuck Dual