I've got a Stihl FS450, a 550, and the Husky 555FX. The husky gets my vote, it balances so much better in the harness than the Stihl's and can be used for much longer periods without fatigue. For taller people like myself the Husky Balance XT harness is the most ergonomical. The higher end Stihl harnesses are comfortable, but not made for people over 6 feet tall.
Looking for a new brush cutter. Stihl, Husky, Echo, Honda, or ?
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No,a 200mm. The 560 came with the 200mm tungsten carbide blade. I was sceptical at first, having used the normal steel blades and constantly sharpening them (Australian conditions are really hard on chains and blades)
but after 30 hours use,the tungsten blade is still good. I will keep using it until it dulls,then buy another.
I have used a Husky 555fx,and agree,its pretty comfortable, and nicer to use, i do like the harness(and im a midget) But its a lot lighter than the 560,and has nowhere near the power.
but after 30 hours use,the tungsten blade is still good. I will keep using it until it dulls,then buy another.
I have used a Husky 555fx,and agree,its pretty comfortable, and nicer to use, i do like the harness(and im a midget) But its a lot lighter than the 560,and has nowhere near the power.
Well hell, I'm gonna have to try and track down some of those carbide blades! You guys down under get all the fun stuff from Stihl... here I am ordering shredder blades from overseas like they're some kind of illicit contraband. I've not gotten to run a FS560, clearing saws are not common in my part of the states. I will say my FS550 seems to have some more power through the mid range whereas the 555FX is kind of a dog. On the top end I'd give the 555 the edge over my 550. I like the weight of the Husky a lot, I've got a bad vertebrae in my back, that 3 pound weight savings along with the better balance makes a big difference for me. Safe cutting Skipster!
Conquistador3
Le Comte de Frou Frou
Tsumura, the chainsaw bar manufacturer, makes/markets carbide saws:
There various sizes available: you can tell them apart by color.
These are all the rage here: Tsumura has pretty much cornered the market because these babies are expensive but they are also the best around.
kirko
ArboristSite Operative
Stihl fs 480 !!
Trying to decide between the Husky 336FR and the Honda HHT35-SUKAT, about which I know nothing and have seen even less. I retired my old 225 after years of home and semi-pro use and would hate to give up on the orange, it has a few things I like better, but otherwise it's a dead heat. Except the Honda is a 4 stroke, and about $200 less. That might be a no-brainer, but I have hesitations. Any advice with someone who may have used either appreciated. It will be used on a few acres of steep, rocky and thick terrain, b0oth home and occasionally commercially.
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you plan on doing the maintance yourself, I would skip the four stroke. It has a bunch more moving parts and until somebody tells me different, I assume any straight gas design will run out of oil if not kept level. I see that the Honda says it can be used or stored in any position. Hmm, wonder how they do that? Dolmar uses a pressurized crankcase. Stihl went with oil+gas mix. I am biased, I like my two stroke for their dead simplicity. Dead engine? Depending on what killed it, new piston, ring and cylinder. There are like 30 something moving parts in a Stihl FS130 powerhead alone. That is without the flywheel or starter mech. Good luck with the desicion!
I see that the Honda has a flex shaft. I prefer solid shaft but I have no concrete reason for that.
I see that the Honda has a flex shaft. I prefer solid shaft but I have no concrete reason for that.
Yeah, I agree on the 2 v 4 issue, suppose I am essentially asking to be convinced on the Husky. The 225R ran nearly flawlessly for 19 years. The 336 is the logical step up, now that I know my needs better than then. Plus, I am doing more commercial work, and I would never be confident with a new mfr. Plus (I have not checked) but I believe they share the same cutting gearbox, which I just changed last season- that settles the price difference. Appreciate the thoughts.
Oh, what killed it? The fuel tank/crankcase began leaking, externally at first (I managed to repair it and later found a NOS case.) When I had it installed it would run 30 seconds or so before overheating and stopping. I was told it was an internal leak - the main bearings would not seal correctly- and it overheated and caused a vapor lock. Was told "not cost effective" to repair. I remain skeptical, but there are only 2 shops in town, I don't trust myself and could really use the extra power anyway. Ran a chart, the 336 weighs less than 2 lbs more than the 225, but puts out more than half a hp.
Again, thanks, I will probably buy this week. We have a year-round fire season in CA now, so, you know.
Oh, what killed it? The fuel tank/crankcase began leaking, externally at first (I managed to repair it and later found a NOS case.) When I had it installed it would run 30 seconds or so before overheating and stopping. I was told it was an internal leak - the main bearings would not seal correctly- and it overheated and caused a vapor lock. Was told "not cost effective" to repair. I remain skeptical, but there are only 2 shops in town, I don't trust myself and could really use the extra power anyway. Ran a chart, the 336 weighs less than 2 lbs more than the 225, but puts out more than half a hp.
Again, thanks, I will probably buy this week. We have a year-round fire season in CA now, so, you know.
ANewSawyer
Addicted to ArboristSite
It is your money, buy what fits your needs best. I won't tell you that this unit or that unit is best. I do like that the 336FR should come with everything in the box, all the blades, guards and a harness.
I bet you could repair that leak, do not let a shop trash the 225R. It may be simple enough to fix yourself, with the help of the experts mechanics here, of which I am not one.
I have a KM130R and I do like the torque. But I paid less than half price for a very good condition used one. I plan on a 2-stroke dedicated brush cutter because I don't want to maintain a fourer.
I bet you could repair that leak, do not let a shop trash the 225R. It may be simple enough to fix yourself, with the help of the experts mechanics here, of which I am not one.
I have a KM130R and I do like the torque. But I paid less than half price for a very good condition used one. I plan on a 2-stroke dedicated brush cutter because I don't want to maintain a fourer.
I agree = more torque to the cutter, but doesn't a flex act like a shock absorber against sudden blade stop? Just guessing.
I was gonna part out the 225, but you right; whatever is causing the problem is bugging me; I just don't have the time and $ to mess with it right now. Course, I don't have the $ for a 336 right now either, but if I don't do some jobs I promised I won't ever anyway.
I was gonna part out the 225, but you right; whatever is causing the problem is bugging me; I just don't have the time and $ to mess with it right now. Course, I don't have the $ for a 336 right now either, but if I don't do some jobs I promised I won't ever anyway.
Hello, I purchased an FS 560 yesterday. Tomorrow I am going to ask the dealer to take it back, not sure how that will go.
The machine I now own, not the model itself, doesn't seem put together correctly. I think the shaft isn't seated correctly. At idle it shakes (including the whole shaft) like a rabbit that just heard a coyote howl. But idling should create a little vibration. As you load up the RPMs on a saw, that should smooth out. Instead this machine just starts shaking worse on the big cuts. The shaft, the head, the motor just shakes violently. The sealed-unit head is hot to the touch after 15 minutes of use. All the bolts I can find are extremely tight. I have only run the first quart of fuel through it. The shaking is on simple cuts of 4-5" pine that a 55cc clearing saw should handle easily with a brand new factory sharp blade.
Any thoughts appreciated.
A usual problem with purchasing Clearing Saws in the USA is that dealers have never seen one. They know they exist, but that is all.
So this dealer suggests that I'm just not used to how the saw runs and it will work out fine. His Stihl rep can take a look and consult with the factory, but I need to get to work a long ways from home and meet payroll and I just want a new saw, or my $1400 back.
I believe the 560 is a good design, it is in the 4th model year now. I look forward to running a good one quite a bit.
I am a little jealous of the picture of one above, specifically of the harness. My machine came with the "Universal" harness - this doesn't include a chest buckle which helps distribute the weight quite a bit. Stihl makes a "Forestry" harness and why they wouldn't pack that in with their heaviest Forestry saw makes no sense. This saw is probably also their 2nd most expensive item in their whole line of hand-held equipment - so they really should get details like that right.
The machine I now own, not the model itself, doesn't seem put together correctly. I think the shaft isn't seated correctly. At idle it shakes (including the whole shaft) like a rabbit that just heard a coyote howl. But idling should create a little vibration. As you load up the RPMs on a saw, that should smooth out. Instead this machine just starts shaking worse on the big cuts. The shaft, the head, the motor just shakes violently. The sealed-unit head is hot to the touch after 15 minutes of use. All the bolts I can find are extremely tight. I have only run the first quart of fuel through it. The shaking is on simple cuts of 4-5" pine that a 55cc clearing saw should handle easily with a brand new factory sharp blade.
Any thoughts appreciated.
A usual problem with purchasing Clearing Saws in the USA is that dealers have never seen one. They know they exist, but that is all.
So this dealer suggests that I'm just not used to how the saw runs and it will work out fine. His Stihl rep can take a look and consult with the factory, but I need to get to work a long ways from home and meet payroll and I just want a new saw, or my $1400 back.
I believe the 560 is a good design, it is in the 4th model year now. I look forward to running a good one quite a bit.
I am a little jealous of the picture of one above, specifically of the harness. My machine came with the "Universal" harness - this doesn't include a chest buckle which helps distribute the weight quite a bit. Stihl makes a "Forestry" harness and why they wouldn't pack that in with their heaviest Forestry saw makes no sense. This saw is probably also their 2nd most expensive item in their whole line of hand-held equipment - so they really should get details like that right.
kirko
ArboristSite Operative
Find ya self a quality Stihl FS 480 , I buy em second hand and usually pay about $500Au,, Definitely the best all round brushcutter from stihl IMAO , less you wanna strap on 10kg of fs 550 destruction but that's another story.
