Looking for felling feedback

[John A Willard]

Looking for some professional feedback. Dropped this ash today. Missed the house and everything but I'm sure you professionals can offer some tips.

 

[BC WetCoast]

To get picky, it looks like your notch may have been a tad deep. However, it worked as it should, so good job.

 

[John A Willard]

To get picky, it looks like your notch may have been a tad deep. However, it worked as it should, so good job.

I was kind of concerned about that when I was cutting the notch. Thanks for the feedback, BC.

 

[Ben84]

Back cut was a little high, and not enough hinge wood.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Back cut is supposed to be 1-2" higher than the apex of the notch.

http://faculty.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Library/Safe Work/WCB fallers_buckers.pdf

Pages 28-30

 

[Marshy]

You nearly cut through 100% of your holding wood. Only a thin (1/4"?) strip remained and only half way across the diameter of the tree. Your stump shot only needa to be about 1" and you're over 2.5" or so. The face is a little deep but that's ok. If I had to choose only one thing to yell at you for it would be cutting through your hinge wood. You cut that and the tree does what ever the hell it wants. The rest I pointed out won't get you killed nearly as easilly.

 

[ATH]

Yeah...not enough hinge wood. That is the only real concern. Everything else is just touching up and getting a little better each time.

Doesn't look like the bottom on the face cut and the back cut are co-planer.

In the 4th pic...how close did it come to rolling towards the building? Did you see that possibility? (or maybe it isn't like it looks...).

 

[JTM]

I cut through the holding wood like that once. The tree spun off the stump and came right at me. I was fortunate to get out of the way. Now I pay very close attention when making my back cut.

 

[John A Willard]

Back cut was a little high, and not enough hinge wood.

I see that now, thanks!

 

[John A Willard]

Back cut is supposed to be 1-2" higher than the apex of the notch.

http://faculty.forestry.ubc.ca/bendickson/FOPRLibrary/Library/Safe Work/WCB fallers_buckers.pdf

Pages 28-30

Thanks for the guide. I'll be reading it thoroughly before doing another one.

 

[John A Willard]

You nearly cut through 100% of your holding wood. Only a thin (1/4"?) strip remained and only half way across the diameter of the tree. Your stump shot only needa to be about 1" and you're over 2.5" or so. The face is a little deep but that's ok. If I had to choose only one thing to yell at you for it would be cutting through your hinge wood. You cut that and the tree does what ever the hell it wants. The rest I pointed out won't get you killed nearly as easilly.

Yep, I should have had my bigger saw ready to go. I can see that coming at it from both sides made it difficult and increased the risk of cutting too much.

 

[John A Willard]

Yeah...not enough hinge wood. That is the only real concern. Everything else is just touching up and getting a little better each time.

Doesn't look like the bottom on the face cut and the back cut are co-planer.

In the 4th pic...how close did it come to rolling towards the building? Did you see that possibility? (or maybe it isn't like it looks...).

It actually fell a little farther away from the house than I was trying for. Maybe 3-5 degrees.

 

[John A Willard]

I cut through the holding wood like that once. The tree spun off the stump and came right at me. I was fortunate to get out of the way. Now I pay very close attention when making my back cut.

Thanks, tree landed close to the planned location but it seemed like it took more wedging than it should have to break it over. I trimmed up limbs to try and get the weight centered.

 

[John A Willard]

I really want to thank all of you guys for responding. I do have an independent streak that I have to keep in check. Appreciate the advice without talking down. This is a great site!!!

 

[thetoolnut]

1/4 to 1/3 the diameter for the sink cut, back cut to be level or two inches max above the apex of the sink. The sink cut needs to be level front to back and left to right, the same applies to the back cut. How the saw hangs in your left hand determines how level your cuts will be. Your left hand acts as a pivot on the front handle and your right hand guides the back of the saw. Before cutting anything hold the saw in your hands as you would if you were cutting the level cut on your sink or a back cut. Get your buddie to squat down say six feet away from you and get him to sight the bar level with the ground. After making any adjustments look at your hand position. After a while it will become second nature with muscle memory. The balance of a saw varies with different types of bars. Don't be afraid to scribe your cuts either and take your time.

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk

 

[John A Willard]

1/4 to 1/3 the diameter for the sink cut, back cut to be level or two inches max above the apex of the sink. The sink cut needs to be level front to back and left to right, the same applies to the back cut. How the saw hangs in your left hand determines how level your cuts will be. Your left hand acts as a pivot on the front handle and your right hand guides the back of the saw. Before cutting anything hold the saw in your hands as you would if you were cutting the level cut on your sink or a back cut. Get your buddie to squat down say six feet away from you and get him to sight the bar level with the ground. After making any adjustments look at your hand position. After a while it will become second nature with muscle memory. The balance of a saw varies with different types of bars. Don't be afraid to scribe your cuts either and take your time.

Sent from my SM-G389F using Tapatalk

That makes good sense. I'm a retired Ironworker and I wouldn't make an important cut in a high dollar situation without doing an accurate layout and being comfortable with the tools. Thanks!

 

[hseII]

That makes good sense. I'm a retired Ironworker and I wouldn't make an important cut in a high dollar situation without doing an accurate layout and being comfortable with the tools. Thanks!

@John A Willard,

Another good publication:

Professional Timber Falling (Book) by Douglas Dent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00455VB4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gFdOAb7FBYMST
This has been out a few decades, so the equipment is dated, but I personally like seeing the older stuff. The Methods are just as accurate today as ever.



A modern publication with additional information related to pulling trees, as well as an introduction to rope use.
To Fell a Tree A Complete Guide to Tree Felling and Woodcutting Methods https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615338798/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CFdOAb3R0PY9D

Both are solid choices for anyone who plans to cut a few trees.

 

[John A Willard]

@John A Willard,

Another good publication:

Professional Timber Falling (Book) by Douglas Dent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00455VB4A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gFdOAb7FBYMST
This has been out a few decades, so the equipment is dated, but I personally like seeing the older stuff. The Methods are just as accurate today as ever.



A modern publication with additional information related to pulling trees, as well as an introduction to rope use.
To Fell a Tree A Complete Guide to Tree Felling and Woodcutting Methods https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615338798/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CFdOAb3R0PY9D

Both are solid choices for anyone who plans to cut a few trees.

Thanks, I'll check these out. Really appreciate it.

 

[joegill]

Google the five steps of tree felling. It is part of the Asplundh and Davey training materials and also available on PDF from ISA. Stihl and Husqvarna have video courses on YouTube regarding felling, as well. Hope this helps.

 

[John A Willard]

Google the five steps of tree felling. It is part of the Asplundh and Davey training materials and also available on PDF from ISA. Stihl and Husqvarna have video courses on YouTube regarding felling, as well. Hope this helps.

Thanks, I'll check these out too.
I ain't 'askeered' of too much but my own ignorance sure does make me a little uneasy!