Looking for the best file guide

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They are made for different types of Oregon chain, but it is easy to adapt them for Stihl chain as well.


I really like those rollerguides, but I use mostly Stihl chain...

Now, if I didn't care to make any adjustments what would happen when I put the chain to wood? My old manuals for the 066 actually recommends this 10 degree tilt for RS chains under some circumstances, but what if I did that on my RM/RMC chains? Or on chains to be used in soft wood during the summer, which is the wrong circumstances...

Would the saw explode, go backwards, be dull in three seconds or what horrors would I face? It's actually a seriusly meant question, and I've been trying to figure out how this slight tilt is going to affect the shape and behavior of the cutter but I can't seem to find out...
 
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Isn't the ATOP for .325 only?


They are currently working on a U.S. version for square ground full clisel in 3/8, he is sending me some that has been sharpened on the new guide to look at, if someone else wants to see it Ill send it to them when I'm thru. It seems our opion is welcom however a little gets lost in the translation.
 
Best File Guild

I have liked the Pferd File System for last 10 oa so years. We use it for the newer Trainees. It will do the Rakers as well as the teeth at same time
 
Thanks everyone for your input! It helped a lot. I decided to try the Roller File Guide. It seems easy to use. One question. Is it better to file towards the chisel point or away? I will let you all know how my first sharpening job goes tonight.

Henry
 
I have liked the Pferd File System for last 10 oa so years. We use it for the newer Trainees. It will do the Rakers as well as the teeth at same time

I've been looking at this system, so its really that easy? I'm brand new to sharpening and just got my own stihl 200. Lotta help guys thanks.
 
Well after using the Roller File Guide for about one hour I am not impressed with it. it does a nice accurate job but it is slow and one roller did not last. It has a flat spot already. One of the rollers must of got filings in it and it rolls very hard. The thing I can't stand the most about about it is it is too slow for me. I guess it is time to start searching for a good grinder that I should go for. I am glad I did not waste a lot of money.

Sorry guy's for being so negative right now I guess it is frustration. I might of expected too much. But I would like to thank everyone for there input.

Henry
 
Well after using the Roller File Guide for about one hour I am not impressed with it. it does a nice accurate job but it is slow and one roller did not last. It has a flat spot already. One of the rollers must of got filings in it and it rolls very hard. The thing I can't stand the most about about it is it is too slow for me. I guess it is time to start searching for a good grinder that I should go for. I am glad I did not waste a lot of money.

Sorry guy's for being so negative right now I guess it is frustration. I might of expected too much. But I would like to thank everyone for there input.

Henry

Im tellin ya, man try a Granberg before you go spend big money. If you dont like it I will buy it from ya, you have my word on that.
 
Well after using the Roller File Guide for about one hour I am not impressed with it. it does a nice accurate job but it is slow and one roller did not last. It has a flat spot already. One of the rollers must of got filings in it and it rolls very hard.


Henry

There are 2 arrows inside the roller guide that should always be pointing away from the power head toward the nose (sprocket) of your bar. Usually only takes 2 or 3 strokes with the file unless you run your fry chain real bad.
 
It's a Granberg Guide-vise. It also has a separate sliding assembly for a round file.
Scott
 
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