Lots of Husky 353 questions

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jasper89

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Good Morning: I picked up 2 Husky 353s over the weekend for a good price. Both will need pistons and at least one a cylinder. One is a regular 353 and the other is an E tech.

What are the cylinder options for the saws? I read that you can put a 346 p/c on? Is that a good idea? OEM (price seems a little steep) or aftermarket and do you have a favorite a/m? Would you focus on the E-tech or the other or does it make a difference? Chain and bar recommendations?

I am looking to use at least one as a firewood saw and not sure at all about the other until I dig into it a bit more. As usual more power/speed is always appreciated!

Thanks for your input. Frank
 
346 top end is a simple bolt on and the best option for that chassis. I sell OEM's for $200 if you want one. Some aftermarket are decent also.

The only difference in the E-tech is that it has a cat muffler, and that has to go no matter which top end you choose.

Asking about bar and chain ideas will undoubtedly ignite the 3/8 vs .325 debate. I pick a road less traveled here. My opinion is that going to an 8 pin .325 rim gives better performance than either the stock 7 pin or switching to 3/8.
 
346 top end is a simple bolt on and the best option for that chassis. I sell OEM's for $200 if you want one. Some aftermarket are decent also.

The only difference in the E-tech is that it has a cat muffler, and that has to go no matter which top end you choose.

Asking about bar and chain ideas will undoubtedly ignite the 3/8 vs .325 debate. I pick a road less traveled here. My opinion is that going to an 8 pin .325 rim gives better performance than either the stock 7 pin or switching to 3/8.

If I wanted to stay with 3/8 chain (That's what my others saws wear) would you go with an 7 pin or 8? Thanks
 
I have the same types of 353 as you, one E Tech one not. I really like the saws. As Spike said, either replace the cat muffler on the E Tech saw or cut it open, gut it and weld back together. I can't believe hot hot that would get.
 
Since you are planning on keeping one of these saws I would definately go the OEM route. May be fix both and sell one and get a good one at half price.

I love my J-Red 2152 that's the same as a 353. I've seen both of these saws on clearance lately for really good prices NOS. I'm guessing a guy could look around some and get a 353/2152, and a 365/2165 NOS for close to the price of a new 372, or Stihl 362, and have all bases covered for a long time.

Back to the bars and chains, I would just stick to the .325 set-up. I've heard the pros and cons and have run 346's with 3/8ths and I just liked the .325 better. I would like to set mine up for the low profile .325 and give that a try.
 
I have the same types of 353 as you, one E Tech one not. I really like the saws. As Spike said, either replace the cat muffler on the E Tech saw or cut it open, gut it and weld back together. I can't believe hot hot that would get.

In the pile of stuff I got with the saws are 2 non-E tech mufflers so that is what I will use.

The plastic on the E Tech started to melt above the exhaust. It had the original muffler on.

Would you add another port to the muffler? Thanks.
 
I just put a weadeaterman (watsonr) 346xp (closed port) P&C kit on a 350. The one I received was very good and required minimal sanding/grinding to make the ports smooth. 170psi without the gasket. Still waiting on some parts, so haven't put it in wood yet, but for the price it is quite good. I think it is also a good idea to always use the OEM 346 circlips with any aftermarket piston
 
I put an aftermarket 346 p&c on my 350, forgot which brand but it has been running strong for 2 winters already. No regrets yet.

I would like to hear a little more concerning the aftermarket options if that is allowed on the thread. Want to keep it all legal! Frank
 
The best aftermarket option for this series is a good 346 copy. Unfortunately, lots of the kits listed as "346xp" are open port cylinders. weedeaterman has a closed port, there is another on ebayThe best option is Spike's OEM. The only problem for selling is the saw is not likely to go for much more than $300, making it difficult to turn a profit with an OEM replacement. I think I paid 89 or something for the kit I got
 
The best aftermarket option for this series is a good 346 copy. Unfortunately, lots of the kits listed as "346xp" are open port cylinders. weedeaterman has a closed port, there is another on ebayThe best option is Spike's OEM. The only problem for selling is the saw is not likely to go for much more than $300, making it difficult to turn a profit with an OEM replacement. I think I paid 89 or something for the kit I got

If you had it to do it over again would you go a good aftermarket copy or OEM? I don't need the saw(s) to make a living and don't plan to flip it. Maybe one OEM one a/m?

Thank all you guys for your advice, it is appreciated.
 
My intention with that saw was to replace a piston and sell it for a hundred dollar profit. The saw is in great shape, and I got the cylinder clean enough to run, but not to sell. The OEM was never an option, and I'm hoping that the AM cylinder being a 346 will help it sell. If I were keeping the saw I'd go with spike's 346 OEM. I've purchased stuff from him before, and he's first class
 
What killed these saws? Bad carb adjustment is hoped but...

New impulse line, air boot, metal boot clamp, lines & filters would be in order. Possible carb rebuilds. Maybe, much more.
 
What killed these saws? Bad carb adjustment is hoped but...

New impulse line, air boot, metal boot clamp, lines & filters would be in order. Possible carb rebuilds. Maybe, much more.

Great question, one was straight gassed not yet sure about the other supposedly bad mix.

I need to pressure and vac test before I get too far into it or into them, whichever. Thanks!
 

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