OutDoorLiving2018
ArboristSite Lurker
I have been cutting wood for years on the farm. Yes mostly firewood and tree clearing for better fields etc... and have always had pretty good luck considering I am basically self taught. Fast forward to present time and I want to do more chainsaw milling because I have gotten back into wood working as well and lets face it, lumber isn't cheap but downed trees are everywhere. So with that being said I have a LOT of questions for everyone to jump in and answer if you will please? Not looking for which chain or guide bar is best, or which saw to use etc... because everyone has there favorites and good for you. I am sure some of these questions have already been asked but I am going cross eyed looking through posts. A lot of these came into question when I wanted to replace my chain and bar. Currently running a .325 .058 76DL chain on a 20" bar and it seemed my choices were extremely limited on replacement options. If a question has already been answered maybe just post the link? Thanks.
Here goes...
#1 Is there really a noticeable difference between 3/8 and .325 chains?
#2 Why in your opinion is one better than the other?
#3 Does the different number of drive links have any effect on the cutting, as in are they like a gear ratio for the chain?
#4 Can you change over to a different DL(drive link) by just changing the bar and chain combo OR does the clutch gear come in to play?
#5 If the clutch does come into play how do you know which clutch tooth bell is needed?
#6 Is cutting along the grain easier on the saw than against the grain, giving the reason the ripping chain looks less aggressive that a regular cutting chain?
#7 Read some where that a full chisel chain is usually sharpened with a round file basically making it a semi chisel chain so why order a full chisel?
#8 From what I have seen on here it looks like a 30* angle is about the best all around angle for the teeth (better on some woods, not as good on others but will get the job done) but then the talk about 10* and 0* back cuts or something like that? Explain.
I am sure I have forgotten a few that were running through my head earlier but this will get things started. Thanks ahead of time for any and all you help and years of doing it right wisdom.
Here goes...
#1 Is there really a noticeable difference between 3/8 and .325 chains?
#2 Why in your opinion is one better than the other?
#3 Does the different number of drive links have any effect on the cutting, as in are they like a gear ratio for the chain?
#4 Can you change over to a different DL(drive link) by just changing the bar and chain combo OR does the clutch gear come in to play?
#5 If the clutch does come into play how do you know which clutch tooth bell is needed?
#6 Is cutting along the grain easier on the saw than against the grain, giving the reason the ripping chain looks less aggressive that a regular cutting chain?
#7 Read some where that a full chisel chain is usually sharpened with a round file basically making it a semi chisel chain so why order a full chisel?
#8 From what I have seen on here it looks like a 30* angle is about the best all around angle for the teeth (better on some woods, not as good on others but will get the job done) but then the talk about 10* and 0* back cuts or something like that? Explain.
I am sure I have forgotten a few that were running through my head earlier but this will get things started. Thanks ahead of time for any and all you help and years of doing it right wisdom.