M-tronic or not

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Ironworker, In theory I agree, but in real world it does not happen. Talk to anyone who has run the same saw both with and w/o M-Tronic (261, 362, 441) and they will tell you the M-Tronic version preforms much better, it is not even close.

The M-Tronic will adjust on the fly to give you a broader power range, you would have to adjust your tune for each size/hardness of wood to compete, and then you would waste even more time.
 
It would say 261C. You can also look for the carb adjustments on the other side. What dealer?

It had the screw holes for the carb adjustment, but not good enough light to see anything down them, if they were real, or just blank holes.

It's at a little country dealer not far from Kirksville. I was trying to get that 261 repriced but the guy wasn't having any of it. Oh well.
 
If it has holes it is not M-Tronic. Look for the C after the saw number, and there will not be any holes.

Plenty of old saws still being sold, and as was previously pointed out, not all the dealers are up on it or communicate this to buyers.
 
Ironworker, In theory I agree, but in real world it does not happen. Talk to anyone who has run the same saw both with and w/o M-Tronic (261, 362, 441) and they will tell you the M-Tronic version preforms much better, it is not even close.

The M-Tronic will adjust on the fly to give you a broader power range, you would have to adjust your tune for each size/hardness of wood to compete, and then you would waste even more time.
It had the screw holes for the carb adjustment, but not good enough light to see anything down them, if they were real, or just blank holes.

It's at a little country dealer not far from Kirksville. I was trying to get that 261 repriced but the guy wasn't having any of it. Oh well.
U will be far better off to find another dealer that knows his product and practices customer service up front and after the sale. The model u saw is a carb 261 and retail shouldnt be over 569
 
I agree, but my point was that there is not that much of a difference, 12800 rpm, 13000 rpm, who the hell can tell the difference. I keep my chains sharp and that is all that matters.

Sorry, friend, but it seems you're still crossing up no-load and full-load. No way will you see 13K under load without nitro/turbo. So I'm suggesting that you forget about that (adjusting a carb on that basis is BS, anyway- ask Brad Snelling) and focus instead on maximizing rpm UNDER CUTTING LOAD. Peak power will happen around or below 10K for modern engines. Power output is what gets work done, and earns revenue.

Maximizing power UNDER LOAD relates to optimizing mixture under load, thus also to keeping p&c together for a long & happy life. That's what Auto-tune/M-tronic is all about. I don't even want to think about constant manual carb adjustment cutting @WOT. Cutting with razor-sharp chains is a necessity, and maxing power output spits the chips best. I can tell the difference: 2-stroking morphing to 4-stroking.

I'm wondering when real fuel injection is coming to your local 2-strokes. It's prolly have to be direct, to the chamber.
 
My 550xp is AT and the 346xp has an adjustable carb both muffler modded you need a stop watch to tell the difference if there even is a difference. If i wanted to take the mods farther i would get more out of the 346xp because it can be adjusted further.


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Sorry, friend, but it seems you're still crossing up no-load and full-load. No way will you see 13K under load without nitro/turbo. So I'm suggesting that you forget about that (adjusting a carb on that basis is BS, anyway- ask Brad Snelling) and focus instead on maximizing rpm UNDER CUTTING LOAD. Peak power will happen around or below 10K for modern engines. Power output is what gets work done, and earns revenue.

Maximizing power UNDER LOAD relates to optimizing mixture under load, thus also to keeping p&c together for a long & happy life. That's what Auto-tune/M-tronic is all about. I don't even want to think about constant manual carb adjustment cutting @WOT. Cutting with razor-sharp chains is a necessity, and maxing power output spits the chips best. I can tell the difference: 2-stroking morphing to 4-stroking.

I'm wondering when real fuel injection is coming to your local 2-strokes. It's prolly have to be direct, to the chamber.
I was just using those numbers as examples, I have no idea what rpm's I'm running at. Like I've said I've run both and there really is not that much of a difference, but that's me.
 
I was just using those numbers as examples, I have no idea what rpm's I'm running at. Like I've said I've run both and there really is not that much of a difference, but that's me.
Id be happy with a carb model too but after I ran my 441c and experienced ease of cranking, the idle, the constant tune and performance, fuel economy, what is there not to like? I can tune a carb saw but Ill choose mtronics for all the benefits and concentrate on things like chain sharpening technique. Buying a carb model to me would be like taking a step backwards! Thats just from my experiences so far with both models and thoughts for the OP
 
It had the screw holes for the carb adjustment, but not good enough light to see anything down them, if they were real, or just blank holes.

It's at a little country dealer not far from Kirksville. I was trying to get that 261 repriced but the guy wasn't having any of it. Oh well.
I'd be looking elsewhere for sure
 
"C" just means it offers features not present on a base model. Anything after the "C" is what feature it has. C-M = mtronic, C-E= easy2start and so forth.
 
"C" just means it offers features not present on a base model. Anything after the "C" is what feature it has. C-M = mtronic, C-E= easy2start and so forth.

C means different things on different saws, I should have specified. In the Pro Line, if it has a C on the recoil cover, it is M-Tronic. I don't believe they make a saw with C-M on the saw, even though that is what it is in the catalog. Non Pro saws may be different (C is comfort feature).
 
MustangMike: Is your 441cm faster than your 441 and 044? I'm guessing yes since you sold the 441. I'm interested in the mtronics, just concerned about longevity. My friend is very impressed with his 441c.
 
My 441 was not a C model, but I hear they do run much stronger. My 362 C is much stronger than you would expect a 59 cc saw to be. I was planning to cut some wood with a good friend who has a 441 C about now, but just got word that he had a mishap on a ladder and broke a leg, so that won't happen for a while.

Anyone who has posted that has run both a C and non C model has stated the C is stronger (261, 362 & 441).

Can't answer longevity at this point in time, but they seem to be Mostly trouble free for now. AKDoug has stated the parts are easy to replace and not that expensive, so I don't think it will be an issue. I expect they will hold up just fine.
 
I have a 441cm. It is German made. Are the other m-tronic saws also German made. My "regular" 261 was made in the USA.
 
This is one of those interesting threads where most everyone has a point that is correct, but could argue back and forth forever. I have not compared a regular 362 to my only m-tronic saw, the 362c-m. It would be tough to make an exact comparison without being able to swap out the mtronic carb for a regular one, would be cool if this was easy to do, that way everything would be exactly the same, including the flywheel, cylinder, piston, etc. What i can say i that i'm impressed with the 362cm, as strong as my 62cc 034 super that is a little beast in 20" oak, but more zippy to spool. I have not looked into any of the programming or mapping to know what else the mtronic does, but if it also adjusts the timing advance better than the regular saw does that could help. I agree that you have to use it to like it, i was against getting one but really like it now. May be more noticeable with the bigger bars/saws since cutting up 4-6" logs shouldn't matter anyway.
 

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