M170 STHIL problem

[druist]

Hi Guys.

Solved my oiler problem - all thanks to you ppl, got a syringe and blew through the tube with it, gunk came out, oiler worked- so wish i had thought of this before i would have saved many hours and £ taking it to bits, replacing the rubber bits that hold it together.

Anyway while using it yesterday i thought it seemed to be cutting a lot slower than usual, the chain seemed to be going round as fast as ever, but it seems sluggish on the cutting (so perhaps it isnt), i have also noticed a spark here and there and there is no metal in the wood i am cutting, sure of it.

When i showed it to a guy who is "supposed" to know a lot about chainsaws, he said the chain looked sharp enough. This was while i had the previous problem. Could i have fitted something wrong when i put it back together or done something up to hinder performance?



thanks ppl

 

[Tzed250]

If you saw sparks then the wood has some foreign matter in it. If you can see any light reflected from the cutting edge then the chain is dull.

 

[druist]

Thanks for that, can thick cherry type have foreign matter so deep inside the trunk? Also, i notice a lot of burn marks after sawing, wondering if my oiler isnt coming out enough. the chain does feel like oil is on it, but seeing burn marks make me think now the sparks are friction.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

If you are seeing sparks while cutting clean wood, and getting burn marks on your bar....I think you still have an oil problem. Are you using bar oil - or just some kind of motor oil? Bar oil has special properties that make it tacky so it will stay on the chain longer. As a test - but a trail of oil on your bar and let it run over the side of the bar and onto the chain - if you can cut for a while without sparks or burning. - it sounds like you need more oil (Or better oil). I will occasionally see sparks when cutting a really hard wood like Osage Orange - but the saw still cuts and the bar doesn't get hot.

Are you cutting in really cold weather with summer bar oil and the oil is too thick to flow properly? Is your chain sharp - are you making too much heat and burning the oil away?

 

[Peacock]

Thanks for that, can thick cherry type have foreign matter so deep inside the trunk?

Yes. Cherry is one of the worst around here for being full of crap, especially near the base.

 

[druist]

i am using proper chain oil. I havent seen burn marks before this oiler problem. The burn marks on the wood make it seem obvious that it isnt being cooled and lubricated enough. Though there is enough oil each time i use it i see noticed its leaking oil too.

Yes its around 0 celsius at the moment, so fairly cold for england.

Reckon its back to the drawing board - or worst still take the damn think to bits again. Though i might just see if i can blow through the oil line - its seems almost designed to block at the oiler.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

If you have burn marks on the wood I suspect the chain is dull.

If you have burn marks on the bar I suspect the oiler is not working.

Try manually oiling the bar/chain for a few cuts and see if the saw works as it should - if the saw still won't cut I would think that you have a dull chain and it is just working too hard.

 

[bama]

You don't happen to have put the chain on backwards?

 

[Sprig]

:hmm3grin2orange:

You don't happen to have put the chain on backwards?

Hm, sparks from tree, sparrks from tree, a cherry tree, a cherry tree in England.................. Couple of questions come to mind. Is this a tree in a cherry orchard? Are there black/blue specks in the wood? Chain sharp? (this is sort of redundant I know but a dull chain in clean cherry wood shouldn"t produce sparks, might smoke some, burn yer bar, and make you and the saw work real hard, sparks??? Nah lol) Trees growing in sandy soil..... some have a tendancy to 'pick up' particles as they grow, kids throwing dirt in a crotch may do the same thing, I have experienced pebbles in maples that were 'picked up' over a foot above ground, chain killers. Old staples, nails, tacks, metal in general, or rock material, are the most likely culprets.......... dull chain and continuing to cut is the later version of problem, ie. smoke, burn marks, burned chain/bar.
If your fuel and oil are being used at about the same rate than these may be your answers. If your saw isn't oiling then you'll have a fair bit left over after you run out of gas.
My minor opinion and nothin' else fer the evening. :greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:



Serge

 

[OLY-JIM]

:hmm3grin2orange:


Hm, sparks from tree, sparrks from tree, a cherry tree, a cherry tree in England.................. Couple of questions come to mind. Is this a tree in a cherry orchard? Are there black/blue specks in the wood? Chain sharp? (this is sort of redundant I know but a dull chain in clean cherry wood shouldn"t produce sparks, might smoke some, burn yer bar, and make you and the saw work real hard, sparks??? Nah lol) Trees growing in sandy soil..... some have a tendancy to 'pick up' particles as they grow, kids throwing dirt in a crotch may do the same thing, I have experienced pebbles in maples that were 'picked up' over a foot above ground, chain killers. Old staples, nails, tacks, metal in general, or rock material, are the most likely culprets.......... dull chain and continuing to cut is the later version of problem, ie. smoke, burn marks, burned chain/bar.
If your fuel and oil are being used at about the same rate than these may be your answers. If your saw isn't oiling then you'll have a fair bit left over after you run out of gas.
My minor opinion and nothin' else fer the evening. :greenchainsaw: :greenchainsaw:



Serge

+1

 

[druist]

Burn marks are on the wood only. I saw sparks and this wood is very clean.

Its not eating cherry type, cant think what its called. Very dense though.

Is it worth trying to sharpen the chain with one of them chain files?

i was also thinking of blasting the oiler line with a small amount of compressed air to remove any blockages.

Anyone know what sort of clearance should there be between the chain and the bar if i lift the chain? I was always told about 1/4"???

 

[046]

it's easy to tell if your saw is oiling enough.

simply run your saw at mid speed in the air. point tip at clean piece of wood or something else oil will be easily seen. chain should be throwing off a light spray of oil, if working properly.

then throw on a new chain, cut a different piece of wood. that should isolate your problems...

note the only time you can adjust a chain, is when it's cold. all it takes to dull your chain is one touch of an embedded rock or nail.

 

[treeclimber jul]

As said above,
not likly but..Chain on backward?

wrong oil

chain dull

bar rails worn out, too much play side to side,

take bar and chain off, run saw above idle, see if oil is coming out of oil hole by bar mount.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Thought I would throw in my $.02 into this. I was cutting the other day at about the same temperature as OP (28 F), using regular bar and chain oil. The saw simply would not lubricate enough and the bar became hot, although I saw no sparks. Chain tension went through the roof and the motor could barely pull it.

I took "drastic" action and tried something I rarely do. I added one ounce of mixed gas to the oil tank and stirred it up with the scrench a little. Then I restarted the saw.

Bingo! Lubrication flowed nicely and I used up the tank. On the next oil tank fill, the saw was warmed up and I went back to normal cutting with the chain oil untouched. Saw ran beautifully after that.