Mac Pro 10-10

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Picked up a pretty nice Pro 10-10 and got it running nicely. Auto oiler doesn't seem to work though. Manual oiler works fine. What's the typical place to start to look for a fix. Old saws are new to me so just a little nudge in the right direction would be a help. I don't have an IPL yet.
 
Picked up a pretty nice Pro 10-10 and got it running nicely. Auto oiler doesn't seem to work though. Manual oiler works fine. What's the typical place to start to look for a fix. Old saws are new to me so just a little nudge in the right direction would be a help. I don't have an IPL yet.

If it's one of the older 10-10 saws it might not have an automatic oiler. Does it have the right or left starter?
 
One screw opens the oil tank. Inside, you'll find the auto oiler. Kinda a pain to get it out, but super easy to take apart and clean it out. Flush it with your solvent of choice and the passages to the bar mount and reassemble. Start to finish shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.
 
According to the Acres' site ...


The Pro-Mac 10-10
has an automatic oiler with a manual override

The Pro 10-10A has an automatic oiler with manual override

The Pro-Mac 10-10S has an automatic oiler with manual override as well

So that pretty much rules out the 'manual oiler only' question. Without having an available IPL, my first suggestion would be to make sure that the entire path the oil must travel is clear and that all check valves move as designed.
 
Picked up a pretty nice Pro 10-10 and got it running nicely. Auto oiler doesn't seem to work though. Manual oiler works fine. What's the typical place to start to look for a fix. Old saws are new to me so just a little nudge in the right direction would be a help. I don't have an IPL yet.

As previously mentioned the auto oiler will be in the oil tank on the front of the saw. Remove the screw that holds the cover on and the auto oiler should be there. It is an impulse oiler so if the saw has sat unused for a while it may need to be cleaned.
 
Well I took the oil pump out and cleaned it. Really seemed fine. Still doesn't auto oil. Manual oiler works fine. Does the oil line with the filter supply oil for both the manual oiler and the auto? Any help would be appreciated.
 
Well I took the oil pump out and cleaned it. Really seemed fine. Still doesn't auto oil. Manual oiler works fine. Does the oil line with the filter supply oil for both the manual oiler and the auto? Any help would be appreciated.

Nope, same line should feed.

I don't know if it's been previously mentioned but you may want to prime that pump ... just a hunch.
 
The manual oiler primes the auto. The circuit is the same, so no passages are plugged. Either the plunger disk is worn out or is it possible when you reassembled the AO, you ran the adjustment screw all the way down blocking any auto function?
 
Anything is possible but I saw a screw that looked like it might adjust something but I didn't move it. So could adjustment there be what is needed? I have no clue? Just cleaned pump and reinstalled. Line with screen is in front of the pump. Is that correct? I couldn't decide.
 
There's a slotted acrew with no "head" and a am nut aound it. Fiddle with that to check adjustment.
 
And what should the adjustment be like. I don't know what I'm looking for. Not sure really how an "impulse" pump works. Sorry for the lack of knowledge.
 
I realize this is a non-answer, but the same ao in these is on 125s, so they'll oil a 50" bar. Enough adjustment is when it doesn't make a mess, lol.
 
Unscrew the adj bolt til she touches the case and lock the nut.Try the saw for a tank or two and decide if it gives too much oil.If so,screw in the adj bolt a turn or two and retry til you are about ok about the flow.Impulse pump works with the piston .Each time ,piston goes down and pump,it create a suction in the pump by a hole in the case that connects the pump.

PHP:
And what should the adjustment be like. I don't know what I'm looking for. Not sure really how an "impulse" pump works. Sorry for the lack of knowledge.
 
Thanks guys. That expaination helps. Maybe the plunger disk is worn out. It moves in and out without much friction. I push it down and it comes right back up. It doesn't look like it would create much suction.
 
The little rod on the other end of that disk/piston is the actual oil pump. The adjusting screw for the automatic oiler is the one on top of the pump with a jam nut. There are drawings for both the manual and automatic oilers already posted in the McCulloch thread in the Stickys but I'll put them here as well so you don't have to go hunt for them.

From what I'v seen, that adjusting screw has to be completely bottomed out to reduce the automatic oiler output. If your manual works and the auto does not, it could be that someone made their own gasket for the automatic oiler and covered the impulse port. You should be able to see what the gasket looks like in the IPL.

Mark
 
Gasket looks fine. Adjusting screw is not bottomed out. I hate to buy a new oiler. I see them on ebay for $40 bucks. I've only got $37 in the saw. It's pretty sweet but I've got plenty of "go to" saws. Just wanted to learn a little by playing with this one.
 
Don't give up yet. Sometimes these old Macs just want attention. You'll take it apart 6 times, never change anything, but then it'll work. Wait until you try a flatback carb. Run great once you get it, but you'll become very, very fast at getting them in, failing, back out, apart, reassembled, and in in under 4 minutes :D.
 
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