Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
The location of the tab/key does not matter. What is important is the location of the magnet relative to the coil frame at TDC - the key and slot on the crank could be placed at any angle.
Makita 6401
- Thread starter timq585
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
UPDATE ON SAW:
Just returned from dealer with repaired saw. The problem this time was the flange ring. It was pretty warped and caused the saw to run and after it warmed up would then die, and not restart. After I returned with the saw I tuned it up a little after it warmed up and it runs great. Does not stall after getting hot and will start right up when hot. I am glad its back and running good as I wanted this saw to run right as I wanted to make this my "donor saw" and put a 7900 P&C in it with a bigger bar, so when I am bucking up my log loads if I run into anything bigger than my 20" bar can handle this will be my go to saw. Thanks everyone for all the tips and things to look for that were possibly wrong, and happy cutting.
Just returned from dealer with repaired saw. The problem this time was the flange ring. It was pretty warped and caused the saw to run and after it warmed up would then die, and not restart. After I returned with the saw I tuned it up a little after it warmed up and it runs great. Does not stall after getting hot and will start right up when hot. I am glad its back and running good as I wanted this saw to run right as I wanted to make this my "donor saw" and put a 7900 P&C in it with a bigger bar, so when I am bucking up my log loads if I run into anything bigger than my 20" bar can handle this will be my go to saw. Thanks everyone for all the tips and things to look for that were possibly wrong, and happy cutting.
Poleman
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm thinking it's a crank side seal????
I needed to order some and I think that's what (Nate) fordf150 said they were called because I couldn't find them from what I was going by.
I needed to order some and I think that's what (Nate) fordf150 said they were called because I couldn't find them from what I was going by.
Poleman
Addicted to ArboristSite
My bad....side seals are radial rings....
Maybe 42 &43....
Maybe 42 &43....
it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. here's the original post:
the impulse tube is in the same area as 42 and 43 and is often found damaged above the right rear cylinder bolt after someone tries to unscrew the bolt without taking the impulse tube off its barb. i know a dealer would never try to b.s. a customer but i'm still scratching my head on this one. or maybe when the dealer replaced the carb he forgot to put the ring, 42, into the "suction hose," 44, what i call the "intake boot." that would make more sense.
both my makita 6401's have black hoses, maybe due to infant mortality. don't ask me how i know,but if you try to unscrew the right rear cylinder bolt with the impulse hose on its barb, you will need a new impulse hose. that being said the 6400-7900 series is really easy to work on. i can have the cylinder off and be looking at the piston fifteen minutes after i put the saw on my bench. not all teutonic saws are like stihls. and, i agree, a bad impulse hose sounds more likely than a warped "flange ring."
On Dolmar parts schematic it's # 43. Dealer states when inspecting the saw he noticed the flange ring not appearing to be seated correctly, looking slightly cocked. Upon further inspection it was discovered that the carb nuts which are recessed into the flange ring were not seated right causing one of the carb nuts to be slightly cocked, thus causing the flange ring not to seal properly(sucking air). the dealer described it as a 2 part problem. #1 being the carb was bad and # 2 being the flange ring not sealing properly. To the dealers defense I did receive the part and it was warped and distorted. The only thing I can figure is when it would get warm under the hood from bucking firewood it would cause movement from heating up and start leaking air. Hope that helps, I am just glad its running good again, and looking forward to another load of logs being delivered.
thanks for the reply. in the dolmar ipl the german for #43 is translated to "flange." a lot of husqvarnas use a similar part to mate the intake boot, or "suction hose" in dolmarese, to the carb. the flange has two little captive square nuts that the carb mounting screws thread into. my guess is that when the new carb was mounted one of the nuts was not in place properly. that could've damaged the flange. that of course is speculation. the first thing a mechanic must learn, "i didn't break it. it was like that when i got here."
That is the first thing unethical techs do.....I much prefer the " I screwed up....no charge...here is your (insert equipment here) back" that way in my opinion you earn greater respect as an honest shop. Owning up to mistakes and admitting when you dont know is the difference between a man and a manchild
i have to agree with you there. every mechanic is going to "screw the pooch" at some point. and as things get more complex the opportunities to screw up multiply. my statement was intended as humor but humor often reflects reality. another thing, the big dolmars are relatively easy saws to work on. there's no excuse for a mechanic's lapses.
Similar threads
