"This and the comment earlier regarding Your saws clutch running hot makes me think You might be forcing Your saws through the cuts."
It's possible I did but then I don't have dogs on the Homelite which makes it harder to "force" the cut. 3.3 hp makes it harder too.
I imagine you have hard woods in Croatia so can appreciate that when the Live Oak that we have here in California dies and has a couple years to dry it becomes so hard that just using the weight of the saw to cut it can result in excessive aging of the operator between finished cuts when you're using a relatively small saw. Heat builds up in bar when cutting very hard, very dry wood not matter what method is used and when you don't have a manual oiler to help carry it away.
We have hardwoods, lots of oak and locust.
Years long seasoned bark less locust is the hardest I have ever cut in volume and that was way back when I only had my dad's small 40cc/2.1HP Sachs-Dolmar 105.
This little saw doesn't have spikes either, but I still managed to fry bars every 2-3 loops and wear through the chains tie straps with half the teeth life still left in them - YES, I was forcing cuts, didn't know any better in my youth.
The most hardest wood I occasionally encounter (I generally don't cut these down but rather leave them standing and spread) is dry Cornelian Cherry.
The most B&C heat is generated by the friction of the chains tie straps against the bars rails, the more one pushes the more heat will be generated.
The Oregon rep said that what you describe and what I also did is really only throwing the machining oil that was on the chain from the plant and doesn't lubricate the chain. The only alternative he offered to soaking it was to run it at slow speed for several minutes and squirting oil on the chain from an old fashioned oil can. Like you, I'm satisfied with the dollar cost per hour of use ratio using the method we use.
I don't see any logic in that, as if the oil that caught on to the oil soaked chain will not be thrown off of the loop once the chain starts racing around the bar.
And who in their right mind will high idle a saw for a couple minutes just to soak a new loop.
Any oil squirted on top of the chains teeth and links will also be thrown off the moment the chain starts racing around the bar tip - simple law of centrifugal force.
There is a reason why the oil is being pumped into the drive links, they will carry the oil along and the centrifugal force will drive the oil into the chains links and rivets at the bars tip.
As far as the nose sprocket, unless there's slots or other types of openings to get the grease to the other side of the 2 1/2" diameter roller I see no way that grease can lube the back side. Centrifugal force sends the grease from the hole to the rim and onto the chain and onto the wood. Grease is not a medium susceptible to much capillary action to carry it up over and back down again to the "back" side of the sprocket. The hole is very small but I'll see if I can find the method used or if there isn't any lube getting there. I imagine it runs on a bushing and not any roller.
From what I could gather, if You start greasing the bar sprocket You'll have to keep doing it because the grease forms a barrier preventing bar oil from seeping into the sprockets bearing.
Regular grease consists of oil, soap and water emulsified together - only the oil is the lubricating media, the soap is the culprit creating an oil resistant barrier, evaporating water is the reason why the grease breaks down to oil and soap
(don't quote me on this though, been a long time since I was in school!).
I never did, don't do and never will grease a bar tip sprocket, as far as I am concerned the B&C oil is the lubricating media for the entire B&C setup.
Again, my soon to be 12 years of usage old Dolmar/Oregon bar doesn't seem to hold a grudge against me for never having applied any grease to the sprocket.
Most of the original paint is also still on the bar.
The bar tip sprocket features a real bearing, lest an actual needle cage.
No disrespect intended with any of my posts!
Generally each to his own, do whatever You feel is necessary and
make it work to Your benefit!
Post up a picture of Your Dolmar PS-6100, I always love to see Dolmar saws.
These are half of my girls, they are all work saws - no shelf queens here.
Happy holidays!