Maple rift/quartered?

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MJR

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Is there a way to tell the difference between rift and quartered hard maple? The ray fleck is very small. I am having a difficult time telling the difference between 60 degree and 90 degree on the face. Is it safe to say that the quarter has hart wood on one edge and sap on the other and the rift will be largely sap wood? Right now I am saying my narrow boards are my rift boards. This winter I plan on doing a bunch of maple and want to have a good system in place before the logs are on the ground. How do you label your inventory? Thanks for the help.
 
Is there a way to tell the difference between rift and quartered hard maple? The ray fleck is very small. I am having a difficult time telling the difference between 60 degree and 90 degree on the face. Is it safe to say that the quarter has hart wood on one edge and sap on the other and the rift will be largely sap wood? Right now I am saying my narrow boards are my rift boards. This winter I plan on doing a bunch of maple and want to have a good system in place before the logs are on the ground. How do you label your inventory? Thanks for the help.

Look at the end of the board for the 60* or 90* growth ring .
 
Is there a way to tell the difference between rift and quartered hard maple..... This winter I plan on doing a bunch of maple and want to have a good system in place before the logs are on the ground. How do you label your inventory?

As scottr said, just look at the end of the board... if the rings are 90 to the board you have pure quartersawn, less than that but not more than 45 degrees, call it riftsawn. If you're having trouble seeing the rings (maple can be hard due to it being so homogeneous) you can cut the end of the board with a saw to get a cleaner end, and/or wet down the end so you can see the rings a little better. Often, especially on baords sliced from a smaller log, you will have half the board quartersawn and the other side riftsaw or less, depending on where in the log it was milled from.

Inventory... by the time you have accumulated several thousand bd ft of lumber of all species, keeping track of what was milled when can be a nightmare. I do it by marking each board with a lumber crayon. Sounds like a pain, but it goes pretty quick and you will be glad you did when you are going through your piles looking for something later. I simply put two letters for species and then the month and year. CH for cherry, WA for walnut, AS for ash, OA 10-06 as in the pic below is Oak milled Oct 2006.

milling10150607.jpg


My convention is first two letters of the species. On the rare occasion that there are two species with same first two letters like Cherry and Chestnut, the lesser species, chestnut, would have the first and LAST letter of the name, CT. Rarely but once in a while I want to further clarify for later so I will add another letter in front of the two. Example would be White oak. Most of the oak I mill is red oak, so that just gets OA... but when I mill white oak I will put a W in front, W OA so I know later that this stuff is white and not red. Once you run it through the planer in the woodshop you can tell the diff between red and white oak easily, but when it's rough milled and dry in a stack, they look very similar. Ash looks a lot like oak in a stack, and maple looks very similar to other woods like gum and sycamore until you plane them down to see the grain. I know this all sounds kinda anal... but believe me when you have stacks and stacks of lumber you need something like this to keep track of what it is and how old (and thus how dry) a certain stack is.
 
You could do species like the periodic table....for cherry do CH and chestnut Ch.

Way cool - this sounds like one of my most pleasant science jobs - travelling to interesting places and attending an international committee where we painstakingly verify the claims and names of the new elements and changes to atomic weights and then publishing a new period table.

I have seen a Beeriodic table and a Periodic table of the Vegetables, so why not one for wood? Shall we do it ? Send me your suggestions and I will coordinate.
 
I think its a great idea.....what information would we need to start? Probably ought to start a whole new thread for it so all info can be compiled together in one place....if we just do it based on names it would be pretty easy...we would just group periods based on families or densities.
 
Thank you Woodshop. Even getting the end of the board wet seems difficult to read with the maple (for me). I really like your idea of marking the boards. I am going to start this with all quarter sawn lumber. It is time very well spent. It is one of those things, why didn’t I think of that. I have also been playing with Excel. I want to develop a file to store what I have milled. Once I have something that I am not overly embarrassed by I will post it here. Thank you all.
 
Yup,

I do the same thing but I write on the end because that it what I can see the way that mine is stacked. I have one that throws everyone.

For Red Oak, I use RO and the other is SKO... "some kind of oak"!!

I get all kinds and cannot tell any of the oaks except Red Oak.
 
I use old latex paint for end treatment. Every batch gets a different color, until the cycle repeats. I've got about 6 or 8 different colors (my wife likes me to paint) and that is unfortunately, usually more than enough to last the year. I write the date down for each color, and figure after the year is up, it doesn't matter when it was, and it goes in the main stack. Usually it is in the main stack before that, if the moisture is good.

Usually I don't label the types since it's normally a red oak, walnut, cherry, or other clearly identifiable wood. If it is similar, the WO for White Oak, unlabeled is assumed to be red. Ash gets an "A", maple an "M", etc. Really streamlined, lazy guy system.

Mark
 

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