Maul handle

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sdt7618

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Guys, need help, question is what is better and why? Fibreglass or wooden maul handle.

I ask because I just bust the fibreglass 8lb maul handle I had and am not impressed that it has only lasted 18month. basically the resin split inside the head and the whole shaft just slipped of the end!!

New maul being looked into, but just wondering what the thoughts are. I am going to be gettign just a basic maul, as I find that works for me.

Steven
 
I've had the same splitting maul with a wooden handle for almost 25 years. What you need to do is buy one of those protective rubber boots that get positioned high on the handle by the maul. The boot takes the abuse and protects the handle. I made a zillion misses with the maul, but never broke or split the handle.
 
Wooden handles are cheap and easy to replace if they do break. I have a fiberglass handle to put in my 10 lb sledge when it breaks, though, but that is more just because I end up using the sledge around the shop and the fiberglass will be easier to keep cleaned up-I think.

The suggestion above of the rubber handle protector is a good one, I have them on my axes and splitting mauls (except for my monster maul, but then I'm not real worried about the steel handle breaking).
 
I just wrap underneath the head with a couple wraps of duct tape. Every so often i peel it off and redo it, but it helps. I go with wood just because they are cheaper and easier when one does break.
 
another vote for the wood handle. I've used fiberglass and I hate them with a passion. It almost seems that the fiberglass handles flex some which takes away from your power.
 
I use an 8lb. maul to split most all of the wood I burn (4 chords + or -) and last year I replace the wood handle with a replacement fiberglass handle and I love it. I had a friend that warned me against the fiberglass because of the flex in it, so I was cautious, but like usual I always like to try things for myself. I didn't notice any negative effect from the 'flex' and possibly even like it a little better. Just my 2 cents.
 
If your using a fiberglass replacement handle , the epoxy needs to be at least 75 degrees or it wont set up right. For that reason wood seems to be longer lasting round here. definatley use a rubber guard or wrap with strips from an old inner tube.
 
Just use steel pipe, you can run them over with your truck or tractor and they still work fine.

My Grandfather made 5 mauls almost 30 years ago and they are all still going.
 
Just use steel pipe, you can run them over with your truck or tractor and they still work fine.

My Grandfather made 5 mauls almost 30 years ago and they are all still going.

*shudders*

Steel is a little tough on the vibration when you're whacking a wedge on a cold day, or you inadvertently strike something hard....
 
*shudders*

Steel is a little tough on the vibration when you're whacking a wedge on a cold day, or you inadvertently strike something hard....

I hated every one of the few tools we had back when I was kid with steel handles. No shock absorption, out of balance, etc. I figure an hour with a beer, a few chunks of broken glass shaving down a new handle every few years is time well spent.

Never worked with a fibreglass handle, don't like the feel of them when I try one in the store.

Harry K
 
Sleeve

Anybody have an idea where you can buy one of those protective rubber sleeves?? I had one a few years ago and it worked great.Now I can't seem to find any.
 
I've gone thru a lot wooden handles, no glass tho. Tried the protectors, tape, and whatever. Saw an add in a mag for the monster maul, ordered it and never bought another maul or handle. Bought that maul when I was in my 20s, now turning 60 and it's still going (on a limited basis, prefer borrowed hyd. splitter). I don't experience any shock or vibration with it. If you use it to pound in wedges, well, why would you do that, you've got the monster maul, 1 (sometimes 2 in stubborn wood) swing and most wood pops apart.

Like any subject where there are choices you are going to get many opinions and this is just mine. Go with the monster.

Happy splitting,
 
I rooted around in my garage and found that overstrike protector. It stll works!! And I have no idea why I stopped using it......
 
wood is what i prefer, had a steel handles one when i split for a living, used rubber electrical tape on handle cover with some friction tape for durability, killed most of the negative vibes, still use friction tape on my wood handles (gloves can be hinderance on gripping) and the rubber cushion at the head.
 
Thanks guys, went with a new wooden handle and started splitting next winters wood. Prefer the solidness of the wood to the F/g, which seemed to flex alittle, can't say I notice any diffrence in the splitting however.

Steven
 

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