Mcculloch 10-10 automatic clutch side recoil bar selection help.

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Hey guys so I have a few old mcculloch 10 10s and a 610 pro Mac. The one with the clutch side recoil had a bar and chain on it but I don't think it was correct. I got this baby running and I really wanna bar it up and cut with it before one of you buys it šŸ™ƒ. Not highly knowledgeable in these so I come here first cause I hate Google research. The bar is a 16uxl50 Windsor duratip with 72 drive link chain on it very old looking idk. Like I said not will versed on these saws.
 

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A 16UXL50 bar is a 16" .050 gauge bar that should actually use 60 DL of 3/8 chain. Your 72 DL count makes me think someone put a .325 chain on that set up and that definitely won't work.

Another possibility: McCulloch used an odd .354 pitch chain on many of the 10 Series models back in the day. You have a chain and sprocket mismatch there as well.

.354 clutch drums came with a fixed rim type sprocket, either 7 or 8 tooth.

Most .354 chain would either be marked 350/358 or J1/J2 on the drivers depending on whether the chain was made by McCulloch or Carlton.

This is an 8T fixed rim sprocket and J1 (.354 pitch, .050 gauge) chain.

20211114_152052.jpg

If the 72 DL count is correct, I'm going with .325 chain on a 3/8 sprocket.

Mark
 
A 16UXL50 bar is a 16" .050 gauge bar that should actually use 60 DL of 3/8 chain. Your 72 DL count makes me think someone put a .325 chain on that set up and that definitely won't work.

Another possibility: McCulloch used an odd .354 pitch chain on many of the 10 Series models back in the day. You have a chain and sprocket mismatch there as well.

.354 clutch drums came with a fixed rim type sprocket, either 7 or 8 tooth.

Most .354 chain would either be marked 350/358 or J1/J2 on the drivers depending on whether the chain was made by McCulloch or Carlton.

This is an 8T fixed rim sprocket and J1 (.354 pitch, .050 gauge) chain.

View attachment 1042690

If the 72 DL count is correct, I'm going with .325 chain on a 3/8 sprocket.

Mark
It is a 3/8 sprocket. I looked on the back of it I forget what else it said. So is this bar correct for this saw then? Just wrong chain?
 
According to my notes, 16UXL50 is designed to fit the large frame McCulloch saws with 3/8" bar studs. It would fit the 10 Series saws with 5/16" studs with some type of adapter, either the spring type or the "S" type.

IMAG0429.jpg

IMAG0426.jpg

I can only assume the Duratip reference means it is a hard nose bar and thus can be used with any pitch chain so long as the gauge agrees.

Mark
 
A 16UXL50 bar is a 16" .050 gauge bar that should actually use 60 DL of 3/8 chain. Your 72 DL count makes me think someone put a .325 chain on that set up and that definitely won't work.

Another possibility: McCulloch used an odd .354 pitch chain on many of the 10 Series models back in the day. You have a chain and sprocket mismatch there as well.

.354 clutch drums came with a fixed rim type sprocket, either 7 or 8 tooth.

Most .354 chain would either be marked 350/358 or J1/J2 on the drivers depending on whether the chain was made by McCulloch or Carlton.

This is an 8T fixed rim sprocket and J1 (.354 pitch, .050 gauge) chain.

View attachment 1042690

If the 72 DL count is correct, I'm going with .325 chain on a 3/8 sprocket.

Mark
heimanm, nice pics and explanation.

Do you know anything about Mac 200's and their bar and chain specs? All I can find on acresinternet.com is .404 pitch. The reason I ask is I picked up a 200 about 4 years ago and it had a few issues I could not easily sort out before the pull cord broke. The saw was hard to start/the choke lever thing was kind of jacked up ( my recollection of specifics of my difficulty escape me)
As I re-view some videos, pictures of the 200, I am getting the picture back on the choke issues. Mine does not have the proper detent to knob config so that the choke stays locked as one tries to pull start the saw. This makes it hard to hold the saw and choke with the one hand while trying to pull with the other. I either have to get the right piece or fab up a work around.

Once I did have it running, the chain was too loose. When I went to snug it up to a proper tension, it seemed the chain got too tight to spin. The saw had no bar plates, and I essentially gave up on correcting things until now. I had to care for my elderly mom till she died at Halloween 2022.

CHAIN PITCH:​
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.404 in.
CHAIN TYPE:​
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McCulloch
BAR MOUNT PATTERN:​
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SHORTEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED:​
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16 in. (40cm)
LONGEST GUIDE BAR SUPPLIED:​
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24 in. (61cm)
 
The best description for the large frame McCulloch bar mount is Oregon D196 or D096. Others that can be made to work with a little filing or drilling for the oiler and bar adjust are D009 (large frame Husqvarna) and D005; all have a 3/8" slot for the bar studs.

Older Homelite saws that had 3/8" bar studs share the same mount.

In your case of the chain getting tight and loose would suggest the sprocket is badly worn and needs to be replaced for starters.

Mark
 

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The best description for the large frame McCulloch bar mount is Oregon D196 or D096. Others that can be made to work with a little filing or drilling for the oiler and bar adjust are D009 (large frame Husqvarna) and D005; all have a 3/8" slot for the bar studs.

Older Homelite saws that had 3/8" bar studs share the same mount.

In your case of the chain getting tight and loose would suggest the sprocket is badly worn and needs to be replaced for starters.

Mark

The absence of bar plates should not make a difference unless someone has installed a slim line bar. In that case you need to use 92020 spacers to provide clearance for the chain to get by the bar mount pad.

Mark
Thank you, Mark

Definitely not a slim line bar. And yup, I have a bunch of different bars. Some Husq, Some 3002 and 3003 Stihl bars, A Windsor bar and some new ones I can't remember what I bought to make my 660 and 075 long enough to mill with. Something like 42 inchers for both. I will have to take some pics of my projects and parts so I can post for review and advice.
 

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