McCulloch Chain Saws

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Save the power tools for the heavy machinery........................................

Geez, it was just a crapsman 1/4" quick lock impact. Not even a real impact driver like a 3/8 or 1/2.

This happened a long time ago, I just needed to post something before one of those red saws showed up again.

Back on topic, check the cylinder. It looks real good. I thought the saw was toast judging by how filthy it was

ahy7udyb.jpg
 
Joey, I've found that the filthiest saws sometimes are the best ones. The well cared for looking ones, were well cared for, and the owner knew they had a big problem, so off to the heap. The uncared for ones, wouldn't start with crap gas in em after sitting in the corner of the barn for fifteen years, so off to the heap.

Doesn't always work, but it's a more-often-than-not for me.
 
I thought I'd gasket match the intake and exhaust before reassembly. Also, I deburred the ports but didn't raise or lower any. Here is a new thought for me, I've been grinding that thick muffler bolt that passes through the exhaust stream. Got to help some right?

2ysega7e.jpg


2e9uqepy.jpg
 
Joey, I've found that the filthiest saws sometimes are the best ones. The well cared for looking ones, were well cared for, and the owner knew they had a big problem, so off to the heap. The uncared for ones, wouldn't start with crap gas in em after sitting in the corner of the barn for fifteen years, so off to the heap.

Doesn't always work, but it's a more-often-than-not for me.

I think I'd have to agree. I keep finding relatively good saws that are filthy but have fuel tanks full of bar oil or some minor issue like needing a carb kit.
 
I thought I'd gasket match the intake and exhaust before reassembly. Also, I deburred the ports but didn't raise or lower any. Here is a new thought for me, I've been grinding that thick muffler bolt that passes through the exhaust stream. Got to help some right?

2ysega7e.jpg


2e9uqepy.jpg

I wouldn't have done that. At some point it's going to snap either when tightening it up, or after it has been on the saw a while and needs to be removed. The flat spots and divots probably disrupt the flow more too.
 
I wouldn't have done that. At some point it's going to snap either when tightening it up, or after it has been on the saw a while and needs to be removed. The flat spots and divots probably disrupt the flow more too.

Besides the obvious strength redux issues, has anyone ever done a flow comparison on a standard bolt vs the slimmed one to see if there is enough increase in flow to warrant spending the time to do that? To me the thinking is solid, i. e. it makes sense to a certain degree, but I guess I would rather have strnth and durability over a teeny bit more perceived power. A good job though on the execution of the idea. I would be interested to know how it does.
 
Besides the obvious strength redux issues, has anyone ever done a flow comparison on a standard bolt vs the slimmed one to see if there is enough increase in flow to warrant spending the time to do that? To me the thinking is solid, i. e. it makes sense to a certain degree, but I guess I would rather have strnth and durability over a teeny bit more perceived power. A good job though on the execution of the idea. I would be interested to know how it does.

I worked on the screw a little more to make it a constant diameter up to the shoulder. That way it doesn't taper up to the next diameter. As for the strength, I left the diameter the same as the threaded portion of the screw so strength shouldn't be an issue. I guess I could measure the diameter of the screw and compare that to the width of the opening, my guess is that the unaltered screw is 20% of the opening. I may have reduced that to 12-15%. I got the idea from some of those that port saws and do something similar to the carbs by knife edging the throttle valve center for better flow. I'll keep you guys posted about it. As far as "seat of the pants feel" probably won't make much difference.
 
Picked this (handle) up a few weeks ago, just got around to installing it....now she's looking nice and proper!


296211d1368975580-510-4-jpg

View attachment 296211



A little bit of cleaning, and installed...


296212d1368975622-510-1-jpg

View attachment 296212


296213d1368975644-510-2-jpg

View attachment 296213


296214d1368975647-510-3-jpg

View attachment 296214



This saw has been a bit of a b i t c h....she turns over decent (with the batteries) but she just won't go...while cranking with the batteries, if I pull the cord too, she fires right up.

I thought the chips gave a hotter spark at lower RPM, due to the rarity of parts I installed one rather than pulling the flywheel to get at the points.

I have reverted the saw back to points and the spark is even less powerful....so, I went back to the chip.

Does anyone know if the 10-10/1-10 and the 5-10 had different packs? I thought (maybe) due to the larger displacment of the 5-10 maybe I got the wrong amps? I think these are 1.0 or 1.5 amps

Video:

[video=youtube;FbY_jXD3sMI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=FbY_jXD3sMI[/video]


Comments?

Andy
 
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One more vid:


[video=youtube;niMqqURgurQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=niMqqURgurQ[/video]


She really screams, just haven't put her to wood yet.

-Andy
 
This saw has been a bit of a b i t c h....she turns over decent (with the batteries) but she just won't go...while cranking with the batteries, if I pull the cord too, she fires right up.

I thought the chips gave a hotter spark at lower RPM, due to the rarity of parts I installed one rather than pulling the flywheel to get at the points.

I have reverted the saw back to points and the spark is even less powerful....so, I went back to the chip.

Does anyone know if the 10-10/1-10 and the 5-10 had different packs? I thought (maybe) due to the larger displacment of the 5-10 maybe I got the wrong amps? I think these are 1.0 or 1.5 amps


Comments?

Andy[/QUOTE]

One difference I can think of is, when cranking with the batteries you have less compression since pushing the button down also acts as a compression release. Maybe the compression is just too low with the decomp pushed down.

Joe
 
Tons of compression Joey, I put a new DSP valve and Inner/Outer springs on the valve as well....


It just doesn't create a hot spark, and it's intermittent too. I have not tried a new plug but I have tried others and the result is the same.
 
Have you recheck the lamination gap? And tried a different coil? Another thing to consider is the kill switch. The wire could be grounding out somewhere. The wire moves with the switch so that could also be a possibility. Pull the switch wire from the coil and then try it.
 
Picked this (handle) up a few weeks ago, just got around to installing it....now she's looking nice and proper!


296211d1368975580-510-4-jpg

View attachment 296211



A little bit of cleaning, and installed...


296212d1368975622-510-1-jpg

View attachment 296212


296213d1368975644-510-2-jpg

View attachment 296213


296214d1368975647-510-3-jpg

View attachment 296214



This saw has been a bit of a b i t c h....she turns over decent (with the batteries) but she just won't go...while cranking with the batteries, if I pull the cord too, she fires right up.

I thought the chips gave a hotter spark at lower RPM, due to the rarity of parts I installed one rather than pulling the flywheel to get at the points.

I have reverted the saw back to points and the spark is even less powerful....so, I went back to the chip.

Does anyone know if the 10-10/1-10 and the 5-10 had different packs? I thought (maybe) due to the larger displacment of the 5-10 maybe I got the wrong amps? I think these are 1.0 or 1.5 amps

Video:

[video=youtube;FbY_jXD3sMI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=FbY_jXD3sMI[/video]


Comments?

Andy

NICE looking saw Andy. Hope you get the bugs worked out. Those pics make me want to find full wraps for my 7-10A and PM-700.:msp_thumbup:
 
Yours looks like it has a single spring DSP...those are usually on the smaller cc saws (like the 3-10), the 70cc range have 2 springs on the DSP (Inner & Outer).



-Andy
 
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