McCulloch Chain Saws

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Well the pm700 had a lovely spark so thought bugger it filled her up the airbox was filling up with gas leaking from the seem so gave her a cuple pulls any way and.... woof up she went like a bonfire so run like hell to the tap getting burnt hands and managed to get it out fewff shacking n trembling put it down for another day. Stuped me I new better I even said to myself before the 1st pull that it may catch fire. Allways listen to your instincts they know better than your brain sumtimes.

Sorry you had an incident. I've worked with saws before and seen that same thing with the airbox filling up because of a non-sealing fuel line between tank and airbox. I'm always leery of trying to start one in that situation.

Rob
 
Questions on PM 800 rebuild:

I bought a new pulse line for the PM800 since the old one seemed fairly stiff. When taking off the old one I noticed that it contains a spring hidden within it. Is this spring something that just helps the line keep from collapsing when the engine gets hot? What's the best way to remove the spring and get it into the new line?

What sealant or gasket material should I use when joining the case halves around the crankshaft? Something like clear RTV silicone or Ultra Copper or something different? It looks like the old parts had a thin layer of sealant on the case halves and around the outer races of the bearings. Is that right?

Thanks!
Rob
 
Sorry you had an incident. I've worked with saws before and seen that same thing with the airbox filling up because of a non-sealing fuel line between tank and airbox. I'm always leery of trying to start one in that situation.

Rob


Yea not very nice serves my stuped ass right though. So swapped the 10 10 tank and carb over n now that leaks at the seem dam it and it was fine last time. Whats the best thing to seal it up with?
 
Yea not very nice serves my stuped ass right though. So swapped the 10 10 tank and carb over n now that leaks at the seem dam it and it was fine last time. Whats the best thing to seal it up with?

If it is leaking at the fuel line one thing that can work is to wrap the line in teflon thread tape where it goes through. If it is the halves leaking then you probably need a new gasket and/or gasket sealer.

Rob
 
I've had good luck with the cork tank gasket from randys on ebay. The one on my 700 still leaked a bit for a little while after installing the new gasket, but I let it sit a days with a full tank per marks guidance and the gasket swelled right up. No more leaks.

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Its leaking at the seem but yea it could be leaking there too how come the other 1 never leaked and now does and its pouring out not just a weap too.20180610_130844.jpg
The old owner must have used a bucket to fill up the bar oil tank. He was using waste oil too the poor old thing
 
Well, I guess I don't need an answer about how to remove the spring inside the pulse line on the PM800. I tried various things to get it out, from pushing it with several objects to pulling it. In the end I pulled too hard and distorted it pretty bad. It's definitely not going back into the new hose.

So, how critical is this? Can I just use the hose without it? If not, is there an alternative spring I can find for this or do I need to locate the correct part number?

Thanks,
Rob
 
I've never noticed a spring in any of mine. My guess would be to keep it from kinking when the saw moves in the anti vibe mounts.

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I've never noticed a spring in any of mine. My guess would be to keep it from kinking when the saw moves in the anti vibe mounts.

That's what I'm thinking... keeping hose from collapsing or kinking. Not sure I'm going to have an easy time finding one though.

Rob
 
What about coiling a piece of thin wire around the outside of the hose?
That's what I'm thinking... keeping hose from collapsing or kinking. Not sure I'm going to have an easy time finding one though.

Rob

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Ahhh ok. Spring from a large lip seal might do

That's a good idea. Too bad I didn't keep the old seals the last time I did the hubs on my utility trailer. Anyone have axle seals or other larger seals around that would be willing to check spring diameters? I'm willing to buy a new seal if I can harvest the spring off of it, but won't be easy to find one of the right diameter.

Wondering if being a spring meant to pull (like the seal's lip spring) vs. one intended to push in compression (which is what was in the hose) matters?

Thanks,
Rob
 
Imo a pull spring is better in everyway. Installing or removing plus preventing hose collapse in a tight bend. I bet a seal of 30mm or so might do?

Edit: you be looking for 'garter springs'
Iirc bearing houses can get them but for your needs one seal would do it lol
 
I'm just throwing this out there.There are several Homelite saws that use impulse lines & they don't have any springs in on around the lines.Also have impulse oiler lines on several McCullochs,no springs in or around them either.My advice would be to try the line without a spring & see what happens.The worst thing that can happen is that it won't work,not like you're going to blow the engine up or seize it.
 
Edju, caution there wrt a possible leaned out engine if fuel pump cannot supply adequate fuel. 10 series macs the impulse makes a pretty sharp bend iirc so that might be the concern
 
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