McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

Q Port is a slotted exhaust port. Bleeds off compression as you crank it but at speed is too small to make much of a performance difference. MAC claimed it also quietened the saw some thus they named it the Q Port. I understand that this design has been used on high compression 2 stroke motorcycles for years. Ron

Previous 82cc MAC exhaust port (Below Left) Q Port 82cc MAC exhaust port (Below Right)

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Well I dont think that'll work.....

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That poor saw has been murderd

 

[watchamakalit]

That poor saw has been murderd

It has but im hoping its just a ring job.

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[Jethro 2t sniffer]

It has but im hoping its just a ring job.

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Rip it open hopefully your right

 

[fossil]

Yea ok I've been told then haha. Are they not around much up your way?

Nope never seen one in Canada. Likely out there but I don't know of anywhere I could buy one. Tsumura bars can be had.

 

[fossil]

Sorry, I guess you will be opening it. Hopefully, you will find that the cylinder is usable. If not and it isn't gouged too deep, you can have it re-plated for around $200 plus shipping; or you can sell it for parts - I for one am always needing or wanting something for my 800s. I cut a fair size dead red oak with one of mine today as well as a large red oak snag. Ron

View attachment 677427

View attachment 677428

What did you do to adapt the Stihl bar to the MAC Ron?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Well from a bit of learning it would appear they have a very good knowledge of steel from the sword making days and have put that into use with a bar instead. Can pick up a new 20inch replaceable tip bar and chain for 140ish nzd

 

[heimannm]

Ed- Early 7-10's with an 11 prefix on the serial number had a keyed clutch and RH nut. Later serial numbers (12, 13, 14 prefix) had no key and a LH nut.

I took down and ash tree today using my PM850.



Easy drop (we put a cable in it since that large branch sticking up was hanging on the wrong side) and extra hands on sight to deal with the brush. We started just after 8:00 and I was loaded and pulling out just before noon.



It was dead from the emerald ash borer so I hauled most of it directly down to the basement in anticipation of burning it soon. In fact, we have a fire in the Woodland stove tonight burning up some of the smaller chunks.

Mark

 

[Brian Thacker]

He just took a piece of metal the same thickness as the bar, cut it to fit in the slot of the bar and drilled two holes for the bar studs to go thru. Cut it down just passed the bar studs and there you go a bar adaptor. If you are using a large frame saw like a 125 if I remember right because it has been a while sense I have done one but the oil holes will line up. A Husky bar works well one a small frame Mac. You just have to use a dremel tool with a cutting disk on it and cut the bar down until it hits the adjuster slot and I think the Husky bar slot is like 1mm larger which is nothing,

Brian

 

[rwoods]

Also drilled the bar to accept the bar adjuster. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Ed- Early 7-10's with an 11 prefix on the serial number had a keyed clutch and RH nut. Later serial numbers (12, 13, 14 prefix) had no key and a LH nut.

I took down and ash tree today using my PM850.

View attachment 677451

Easy drop (we put a cable in it since that large branch sticking up was hanging on the wrong side) and extra hands on sight to deal with the brush. We started just after 8:00 and I was loaded and pulling out just before noon.

View attachment 677452

It was dead from the emerald ash borer so I hauled most of it directly down to the basement in anticipation of burning it soon. In fact, we have a fire in the Woodland stove tonight burning up some of the smaller chunks.

Mark

If I had cut it, I would have put at least one branch in the vegetable patch. Hope to meet you in person on Saturday. Right now Brian’s and my schedules are good to go.

Ron

 

[fossil]

He just took a piece of metal the same thickness as the bar, cut it to fit in the slot of the bar and drilled two holes for the bar studs to go thru. Cut it down just passed the bar studs and there you go a bar adaptor. If you are using a large frame saw like a 125 if I remember right because it has been a while sense I have done one but the oil holes will line up. A Husky bar works well one a small frame Mac. You just have to use a dremel tool with a cutting disk on it and cut the bar down until it hits the adjuster slot and I think the Husky bar slot is like 1mm larger which is nothing,

Brian

Also drilled the bar to accept the bar adjuster. Ron

Thanks Brian and Ron

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

When I converted the husky mount I tig welded the oil holes up im not sure if it was absolutely necessary or not but the bar plate didnt blank it off so it seemed like oil would spew out and run down the front of the oil tank. Perhaps not but I had the tig there so just did it. I also got some very thin sheet metal and cut a strip the thickness of the bar and wrapped it around 1 stud then over to the other in an S shape. I know you guys do this stuff all the time but any lurkers or newbs mite find it handy. I do alot of lurking and reading of even very old threads trying to find bits of info like that.

Thats how I found you buggers and mac saws now I cant stop looking for the dam sickly yellow things haha. The number of plastic china macs and bloody 310s everyone trys to palm off gets annoying though.

 

[watchamakalit]

It looks like the cylinder is okay but I believe I'm going to need a piston and a set of rings for sure. So how do I tell if it's an a b or c cylinder I've read that there's a difference but I'm not sure how to identify them? Sorry for the amateur photo-taking but I am far from a professional photographer.

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[rwoods]

Head may be stamped near the spark plug. Ron

 

[BigBlue]

Hey, that looks a lot like the piston damage on my first 800. It recovered well with a new piston and rings. As for the A/B/C thing, that should be stamped on the head. Outside, top, I believe.

Rob

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hunt around on hear for the abc thing no marking ment 1 of the three. Cant remember wich 1 though. Its amazing what the chrome can handle I allways feel its kinda fragile but then this just amazes me what it may survive. Youl have a really really nice saw after this is sorted.

 

[rwoods]

No marking = B. All of mine have been marked. All but one are Bs.

Glad the cylinder is good. Please hold out for an OEM piston as the saw appears worthy of such.

Ron

 

[watchamakalit]

No marking = B. All of mine have been marked. All but one are Bs.

Glad the cylinder is good. Please hold out for an OEM piston as the saw appears worthy of such.

Ron

It is stamped b on top. I didnt plan on anything but an oem piston. I'm really excited. This saw is the cleanest of my macs by far.

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[heimannm]

Looks like either aluminum transfer or a chip in the chrome between the exhaust port and the transfer. You'd better have a close look there. If it is aluminum transfer you should be able to clean it up with some emery cloth on a mandrel and your cordless drill.

Bob Johnson has 87791 piston kits which were were the forerunner of the 92581/519/520 "A"/"B"/"C" pistons. Marmax says 87791 = 92518 but Bob's documents say 87991 = 92519. I measured up a 92518 and an 87791 and could not say definitively they were different or the same but as accurate as my micrometer and I can be, they looked to be very close. The difference between the two according to the book is 0.0008".

Looking at the documents, 87791 is 2.0585/2.0580 at the top which actually falls between the "B" 2.581/2.574 and the "C" 2.590/2.582. I would use it for the "B" or "C" but I don't think I would use it in place of an "A" 2.0573/2.0566

Mark