McCulloch Chain Saws

[Aaron Rybicki]

That's about what I was thinking. Who knows what the previous owner did to it. I'm sort of new to the AV stuff and definitely new to the SP125 stuff. I'm used to the simple Non AV 1971-72 10-10A stuff. Super easy to work on.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Those big girls are easy too work on too the fella's here say. I've read they were built with field repairs in mind where they ditched that a bit with the 10 series.

 

[fossil]

Also, I purchased this SP125 from "Steven P. Williams" from Facebook.... To be completely honest, what I paid for it is way cheaper than any eBay price out there for one of these, especially in good condition (cosmetically speaking).. It arrived (with a 36" McCulloch Sprocket Tip Bar & Chain). I fueled it up and filled the oil tank. Right away I noticed it leaking fuel.... It was leaking because the line from tank to carb was not snug enough around the hole through the tank. My aftermarket line, surprisingly had a much thicker circumference and did not require any teflon tape to properly seal it up. Currently, I am in the process of replacing the impulse line as well. It was stiff and not all the way secured on the nipple that is attached to the crankcase. Went through the carb (which is a Walbro with the adjustable High Jet) and all of the gaskets and diaphragm were very pliable. The metering lever was properly set according to my Walbro "W" tool. Not worried about the Carb at this point. It does run as if it has an air leak though. Runs at high idle with the idle screw turned all the way out.
Takes a few more seconds than usual for the chain to slow down after letting off of the throttle than a properly tuned saw. A weak clutch could also play into this because the chain never stops moving. But I can tell the RPMs are just too racy for idle. Tried tuning the low jet richer but due to it being a small jet and not the super long jet (where you can tune outside of the airbox - on the left side of the saw), it made it very difficult to even rotate the screw at all. Probably not the proper carb for the saw. Does anyone know the part number for the PTO side seal for this 125? More than likely need it. Or does anyone know if SKF makes one that is a good replacement?? Hoping if I replace the impulse line and the PTO crank seal, all will be well. Spark is strong and White-Blue, by the way...

The PTO side seal is MAC PN 104432 crosses to SKF 6640. Confirmed correct The seal is a standard 17X35X7 metric seal.

I do believe the SKF6640 has been discontinued but the 17X35X7 is the same.

A little extra info on metric seals. Always pay attention the the seal width (last number) as that will often indicate a slightly different size on the seal OD

 

[davidtown]

I am actively going through the same thing with a couple 125's. I was able to source crank Seals from Discount Marine Parts in Michigan. However, there is a ton of information on seals here via search. There are two seals on the flywheel side and one on clutch.

Dave

 

[edju1958]

I didn't think it was too awfully loud.Now if you want to hear a loud saw,that'd be my 10-10 with the baffle removed from the muffler.It'll make your ears bleed.Lol
Ed

 

[rarefish383]

NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Awful quite here, keystrokes are echoing. Maybe today's report will wake someone.

Anyway, Brian was out today. I just pulled down hangers this morning with the little Deere. All cutting was with an off-brand as I left home with only one bar nut on the 800. This afternoon Blind Squirrel Falling was back in business but the missing bar nut was just an omen of what was to come - all was not sunny in MAC land. Brian has my favorite SP125C at his shop so I took my Florida SP125C with the 42 or 44 inch (DRW) hard nose bar and the 800 now with two bar nuts. For some reason the 800 ran like the 805 has been. Doesn't want to run at idle. The 125 started right up just like my others do, but it didn't want to idle while on its side. Fine time to discover that peculiarity when I have a 4' or so dead white oak to bring down with an uncertain lean and things you want to preserve located in a potential fall zone. Ended up falling it with the 800 with the 25" bar. Fortunately, it and the others all fell where intended which in the case of the white oak was across our access. Started to buck a section to clear the road and the 800 spit out its spark plug with a loud explosion.

Even my Deere had a bad day. It ran for a few minutes and quit - must of had gelled fuel in the lines. I ran the battery down trying to restart it. After an hour and a half, we were back in business.

Ron

Great Expectations.
View attachment 725175

1st tree. Dull chain - 800 doesn't have the oomph to tolerate well a dull .404.
View attachment 725176

2nd Tree.
View attachment 725178

5th and Last Tree. 125 off in the weeds ashamed. Out of oil and mix - good time to think about quitting for the day.
View attachment 725179

Spark but No Compression.
View attachment 725180

I had a spark plug blow out of one of my Super 1050's at WOT. I seldom wear gloves, but that day, I had on a nice pair of leather ones with a Velcro strap over the thumb. Somehow when the plug blew out it shot right between the strap and my hand. I think it shocked me 42,000 times before it coasted to a stop.

 

[hseII]

I had a spark plug blow out of one of my Super 1050's at WOT. I seldom wear gloves, but that day, I had on a nice pair of leather ones with a Velcro strap over the thumb. Somehow when the plug blew out it shot right between the strap and my hand. I think it shocked me 42,000 times before it coasted to a stop.

[emoji1787]

Oh but To have been a squirrel in the woods...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[rwoods]

I had a spark plug blow out of one of my Super 1050's at WOT. I seldom wear gloves, but that day, I had on a nice pair of leather ones with a Velcro strap over the thumb. Somehow when the plug blew out it shot right between the strap and my hand. I think it shocked me 42,000 times before it coasted to a stop.

It made me jump - more from the boom than being struck. I didn’t get burned or shocked, but it did spark a time or two after I gathered my wits.

Brian is going to fix it with a time-sert.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

It also is leaking oil like a sieve... I'm not exactly sure where it is seeping from but it seems to be where the oil tank meets the crankcase. We'll see.. I need to investigate a little more on that one. It does not oil the chain either (at all). Automatic or Manually, SO, I'm assuming it is losing oil at such a fast rate that it can't even pump the oil... Unless there is more to it... If there is, someone chime in please.

This could also be the source of your air leak.

Is the shroud polished aluminum or chrome? Is the exhaust port flush with the fins or recessed? Just wondering if you have a kart engine. I have seen at least one undetected kart engine MAC sold as a regular 125.

Ron

 

[2broke2ride]

Some McCulloch fun today

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hey Kevin you touched that 7-10 again yet? Or is it going on a holiday somewhere?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

This bloody 700. Ok so it's always needed the idle wound all the way in and I bent the stop a touch too to get it to idle I'm pretty good at tuning now and that's just where it needed to be well I was cutting away on Sunday and it went lean really lean so anyway ok I thought it's done this before and started cranking out the low screw and it just wouldn't stop idling way way high I fiddled a bit n gave up n swapped the bar over to the 7-10 (7-10 lost a tooth) well today I fired up the 700 and decided f$%k it and wound out the idle and then the low well bugger me it went rich as and tuned up fine now and the idle screw is more where it should be set. What the hell is going on with this dam carb its running sweet. I have kits here but I'm scared to touch the carb

 

[fossil]

This bloody 700. Ok so it's always needed the idle wound all the way in and I bent the stop a touch too to get it to idle I'm pretty good at tuning now and that's just where it needed to be well I was cutting away on Sunday and it went lean really lean so anyway ok I thought it's done this before and started cranking out the low screw and it just wouldn't stop idling way way high I fiddled a bit n gave up n swapped the bar over to the 7-10 (7-10 lost a tooth) well today I fired up the 700 and decided f$%k it and wound out the idle and then the low well bugger me it went rich as and tuned up fine now and the idle screw is more where it should be set. What the hell is going on with this dam carb its running sweet. I have kits here but I'm scared to touch the carb

What kind of carb does it have on it? It would be an SDC here. Was that 700 made in Australia?

 

[2broke2ride]

Hey Kevin you touched that 7-10 again yet? Or is it going on a holiday somewhere?

It's on holiday in Iowa awaiting Mark's return from his business trip.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Pass i didn't know they were made in aus but yea sdc 44a. I'm just interested what could be going on in there I have no real idea on how they work it's a subject I've been hiding from.

That's good 2broke I'm sure it will have a lovely time with the other Mac's

 

[2broke2ride]

Went out and bucked this pine log with the 1-52 tonight. The saw ran excellent. I am really starting to like this saw!!!!!

 

[fossil]

Pass i didn't know they were made in aus but yea sdc 44a. I'm just interested what could be going on in there I have no real idea on how they work it's a subject I've been hiding from.

I will send you some SDC manuals from Walbro. Cube carbs are very easy to work on.

 

[vinnywv]

This bloody 700. Ok so it's always needed the idle wound all the way in and I bent the stop a touch too to get it to idle I'm pretty good at tuning now and that's just where it needed to be well I was cutting away on Sunday and it went lean really lean so anyway ok I thought it's done this before and started cranking out the low screw and it just wouldn't stop idling way way high I fiddled a bit n gave up n swapped the bar over to the 7-10 (7-10 lost a tooth) well today I fired up the 700 and decided f$%k it and wound out the idle and then the low well bugger me it went rich as and tuned up fine now and the idle screw is more where it should be set. What the hell is going on with this dam carb its running sweet. I have kits here but I'm scared to touch the carb

I hope this upload works and it helps you or anyone else out there.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Thanks Tim and Vinny

That old 1-52 has some nice grunt I see why you like it.

 

[fossil]

Walbro SDC pump side gasket. Choosing the thick one or the thin one in the kit.

I had always assumed the thicker gasket on the pump side was reserved for the carbs not calling for the check valve diaphragm. That seems to be generally true.

I contacted Walbro via e-mail and got the part numbers for the thick and thin gaskets. The IPL's which you can find on Walbro's site will verify which one to use by carb model number.

Parts and Services --> parts lookup ie SDC-44

You can also look by saw manufacturer ie McCulloch, Homelite etc. and reference from there by saw model.

Thin gasket 0.031" +/- .003 PN 92-93

Thick gasket 0.062" +/- .005 PN 92-108