McCulloch Chain Saws

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I spent a couple minutes on project "SP81 in a box" I managed to press the bearings out of the used piston I had here on hand and into the LRB piston and get the piston installed on the con rod. Cleaning up the better of the 2 cylinders I have on hand in the house tonight and hopefully will get the short block assembled tomorrow night.

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I recently picked up a McCulloch 10-10, model 600002 from my mother-in-law and I'd like to get it up and running again. This is the information on this model from acresinternet.com (http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/80ca17b1dfefe20f88256b62001d417f?OpenDocument). Here are my questions:

1. Exactly what kind of chain should I get for it? The site linked above says it's an 11 link bar mount pattern, but doesn't say how many total links are in the chain. I assume I could just count the links in the chain currently on it but just wanted to be sure.

2. That site also recommends 20:1 fuel : oil. Is that a must, or would 40:1 be good? I already have 40:1 ready to use and was wondering if I could just use that.

3. Could I use modern day bar oil, or did these early 1970s chainsaws use something different?

Thank you!
 
I'm just a novice so take my answers with a grain of salt, more expert opinion will follow from others. I should probably just keep quiet...

1. Number of links depends on the bar size.
2. I use 40:1; modern oils are better than those used in the days of higher ratios.
3. I'm sure modern bar oil will be fine, perhaps better.
 
In order to determine the number of drive links in your chain you need to confirm the bar length and the pitch of the chain. Many of the McCulloch 10 Series saws used a somewhat unique .354" pitch chain which requires 61 DL on a 16" bar where 3/8 chain requires 60 DL. You also need to confirm the gauge of the drive links, as they used both 0.050 and 0.058" thick drive links. You also need to confirm the sprocket on the clutch matches the pitch of the chain as it was a common mistake to try and use a 3/8 sprocket with .354" chain and vise versa.

The good news is there were literally millions of those saws built, and the later 600 Series saws (PM610, PM605, etc.) used the same bars and clutches so there are lots of parts available and most saws were switched over to the more common 3/8" pitch chain at some point.

40:1 with a good quality modern oil will be just fine.

The impulse operated automatic oil pumps on the 10 Series saws are more tolerant of oil viscosity than modern saws with gear drive pumps. Any modern, good quality bar oil will be fine. It is always a good idea to use a lighter weight or winter weight bar oil when the ambient temperatures are below 40 or 50 degrees F.

Mark
 
Looking for a little help. Is this spring broken? If not, where should it catch? This on the SP81 box of parts saw I am trying to build. I have a total of 4 of these tanks here and all of them have the spring just flopping there. 3 SP81 tanks and an SP70.
adbed135a872ceb1371b6b1d56a6006e.jpg
60f42a3aa92e621ec8e0f6bd188762aa.jpg


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Looking for a little help. Is this spring broken? If not, where should it catch? This on the SP81 box of parts saw I am trying to build. I have a total of 4 of these tanks here and all of them have the spring just flopping there. 3 SP81 tanks and an SP70.
adbed135a872ceb1371b6b1d56a6006e.jpg
60f42a3aa92e621ec8e0f6bd188762aa.jpg


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Not totally sure but I think it would rest against the mount assembly.
 
Looking for a little help. Is this spring broken? If not, where should it catch? This on the SP81 box of parts saw I am trying to build. I have a total of 4 of these tanks here and all of them have the spring just flopping there. 3 SP81 tanks and an SP70.
adbed135a872ceb1371b6b1d56a6006e.jpg
60f42a3aa92e621ec8e0f6bd188762aa.jpg


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Hi Kevin, it butts up against the AV. I have a question for you. How does the battery pack cover come off on the E series?

DSCF4500.JPG
 
Hi Kevin, it butts up against the AV. I have a question for you. How does the battery pack cover come off on the E series?

View attachment 876405
There are screws that come up from the bottom the center one has a captured nut in the plastic under the label. If the screws are the least bit corroded, you will need to peel the label to get ahold of the nut. I haven't really messed with mine yet and they are the first I've had.

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There are screws that come up from the bottom the center one has a captured nut in the plastic under the label. If the screws are the least bit corroded, you will need to peel the label to get ahold of the nut. I haven't really messed with mine yet and they are the first I've had.

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Thanks Kevin
 
Well, since you guys got on the subject of the E saws. The guy I've been getting all the big saws from the last couple months, said his friend has one, don't know which model. He said it is brand new in the case. I think he said the case was aluminum. 100% complete. He says the guy is asking $600 and told me to ask around. Is anyone interested. Probably won't see him for a couple weeks, it's a 2 plus hour drive. I still hale 3 saws I want to get from him. That will make an even 20 saws from the $20 pile. PM me if you are interested and I'll get the rest of the info.
 
10-10S symptoms.
Had to retune the low jet when first started cold. Throttle was dead at idle.
Up right it runs fine. On it's side RPM's change. Tries to cut off when up right again.
RPM's come down slowly from high RPM's after a cut.

I just installed new intake gaskets and carb kit.
Does this spell crank seals sucking air?
Clint
 
I started cutting firewood for Dad when I was 12-14. As soon as I got my license I was driving an F600 Chipper truck. One of his rules was, "don't mess with the saws". He had mechanics to fix the saws, and paid the work crews to work. He would get rather intense if he found a crew standing around watching a climber working on a saw. So, at 65 I'm rebuilding my first saw, and I'm going to start on the 7-10. I have built race engines so I'm not quite as dumb as I look. First question? I have a piece of started cord stuffed down the plug hole. The flywheel nut is standard right hand thread isn't it?
 
Unfortunately that is a tell tale symptom. Is your fuel tank full though? On its side if the fuel filter gets out of the fuel it will do the same thing. Got me once not too long ago.
Yep I filled it up just to try out a new bar and chain. The carb tune has completely change from the last time I ran it.
 

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