Caneman
ArboristSite Lurker
My guess would be a 1-80 (and in pretty good nic too)
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Changing out a crankshaft does work. Lots of effort but it would work just fine.
Could be a 795 with lh start.
Never seen one of these before - Pro Mac 375 for sale. Dirt cheap and condition unknown. Possibly incomplete.
Pickup is too far away though. Closer to Jethro...
I wouldn't take it personally. I (and others) have had questions go unanswered. People are busy and new posts distract from previous ones.
Also this isn't a service that one should expect to be provided, it's members being kind enough to share their knowledge when they can.
Been busy but I finally got the 850 build done. Rechromed block, new seals, new piston; new rings, new rod new crank. Hell it’s all new inside the jug. Great compression. Will throw some fuel in her and see how she does when I have time
I've got a few peices, like a gas cap if you want,but @heimannm makes the best chip guards and handle inserts.
Thanks, I'll try to look locally first as shipping from the US to here is horrendous and I recently read that USPS just aren't doing it anymore.
USPS isn't doing what anymore?Shipping internationally?As far as I know they still ship worldwide.It'd be foolish on therir part not to ship worldwide,the competition would destroy them.I've used USPS to ship to Jethro in the past & to a friend in Taiwan & Philippines.
Yeah apparently there are a few international destinations they are no longer shipping to and NZ is one of them:
https://about.usps.com/newsroom/service-alerts/international/welcome.htm
Actually I can get things sent an NZ Post depot in Seattle if I need to.
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
All (HELP): I have a McCulloch Wildcat that I purchased at a garage sale ($20). Issue is that someone put Bar Oil in the Gas Tank (known at time of purchase).
After cleaning out all the oil (carb, gas tank etc).
After reassembly, I try starting it and it runs only as much fuel as I prime the carb with (in other words, it is not pumping fuel). I cleaned out the Fuel Filter (going to remove it temporarily to see if that is the issue). If not…my guess is that the carb needs a rebuild kit???
Any more suggestions?
After cleaning out all the oil (carb, gas tank etc).
After reassembly, I try starting it and it runs only as much fuel as I prime the carb with (in other words, it is not pumping fuel). I cleaned out the Fuel Filter (going to remove it temporarily to see if that is the issue). If not…my guess is that the carb needs a rebuild kit???
Any more suggestions?
Very likely a carb kit. I think id tear it completely apart and soak it for awhile in something. Then rebuild it.
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Overall question for Saw Mechs: It has been my experience (albeit, very limited) that when you run into a saw that will only run as long as you have fuel primed in the carburetor (meaning that it won’t pump fuel), that most generally it has to do with diaphragms etc within the carburetor (keeping in mind that the fuel filter is clean, clean gas, fuel lines not cracked or clogged etc).
To be honest, up until I dove into the complete overhaul of my MS290 last month…I thought Chainsaws had some type of removable fuel pump in place until I was educated by our local Stihl Shop Mechanic that Chainsaws use impulse lines and not fuel pumps.
With all that said, I now have (2) McCullochs that will run out…once the prime fuel is depleted (poured into carburetor).
My first step (after checking filter,m and fuel lines) is rebuild the carburetor (Parts kit is on the way), but the question is: Is there another place to look for issues regarding no fuel pressure? Note: As suggested, I plan on soaking this Carburetor for while to see if I can break up any possible clogs in the carb…
I know…probably a stupid question to ask, but I would rather “learn from your mistakes, rather than make my own”….haha
Alaskan Stihl
To be honest, up until I dove into the complete overhaul of my MS290 last month…I thought Chainsaws had some type of removable fuel pump in place until I was educated by our local Stihl Shop Mechanic that Chainsaws use impulse lines and not fuel pumps.
With all that said, I now have (2) McCullochs that will run out…once the prime fuel is depleted (poured into carburetor).
My first step (after checking filter,m and fuel lines) is rebuild the carburetor (Parts kit is on the way), but the question is: Is there another place to look for issues regarding no fuel pressure? Note: As suggested, I plan on soaking this Carburetor for while to see if I can break up any possible clogs in the carb…
I know…probably a stupid question to ask, but I would rather “learn from your mistakes, rather than make my own”….haha
Alaskan Stihl
The other possible culprit is the impulse port. Where the carburetor attaches to the saw there is a tiny hole that goes to the cylinder. As the piston moves up and down it creates pulse for those diaphragms to pump with. If that little port is not open it will not work. To check it, remove the carburetor and turn the engine over. Youll hear/feel air coming from that hole. Not likely gonna be plugged but something to always check. On antivibe saws theres a short hose between the tank and cylinder. That hose could be a source for loss of impulse as well if its got cracks or broken or not in place. Just a few things to check. No dumb questions if you dont know or arent sure.
On a non runner. after making sure its got spark I check fuel filter and line.. With the symptoms you are describing the carb most likely needs a kit. Dont forget after disassembling the carb and soaking it in a cleaner to used compressed air to blow it out and off good before you reassemble it. (Ask me how i know lol)
As far as the impulse port or line one trick that the local shop taught me was to put a dab of regular grease over the hole or line and pull the starter over, it should move the grease ,sucked in then spit it out ,depending on the stroke . Grease won't hurt the internals either.
I've run into 2 blocked ports .
A hole or crack in either the impulse or fuel line will smoke a piston if the saw can still run ,so I always check them and toss the old filter.
I've run into 2 blocked ports .
A hole or crack in either the impulse or fuel line will smoke a piston if the saw can still run ,so I always check them and toss the old filter.
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795 is a direct drive, not a geardrive like the one pictured. Also a 795/895 would have a DSP valve lever or likely a DSP sticker, or part of one on the right side of the tank. That air cleaner cover is significantly different looking as well.
The fuel line should also be checked for integrity, old Homelites in particular are notorious for having the fuel line rot off inside the tank. Always check to make sure the gasket has holes that correspond with the opening in the flange and the carburetor for the impulse signal on those that utilize and "internal" impulse signal and that the gasket is properly positioned. Once you work on a few large frame front tank McCulloch saws you will understand the significance of the gaskets and the ports.
On saws with an "external" impulse signal and line, make sure the line has no holes or cracks and that the ends are securely seated on both nipples (carburetor and crankcase).
I recently was working on a Stihl 880 that would not draw fuel and it turned out the cylinder bolts were loose so there was no impulse signal being supplied to the carburetor to pump fuel.
All of that said, replacing the diaphragms is the most common solution, also check the height of the metering lever to make sure it is within the recommended guidelines and always pressure test the carburetor before reinstalling the carburetor to verify that everything is in good working order.
Mark
On saws with an "external" impulse signal and line, make sure the line has no holes or cracks and that the ends are securely seated on both nipples (carburetor and crankcase).
I recently was working on a Stihl 880 that would not draw fuel and it turned out the cylinder bolts were loose so there was no impulse signal being supplied to the carburetor to pump fuel.
All of that said, replacing the diaphragms is the most common solution, also check the height of the metering lever to make sure it is within the recommended guidelines and always pressure test the carburetor before reinstalling the carburetor to verify that everything is in good working order.
Mark
Similarly, even bad crank seals can kill (or diminish) the impulse signal to the extent that it will not operate a pump diaphragm -- as will any significant breach of crankcase integrity. Sometimes we just don't think about that aspect until all else has been explored. Another reason to have a vac/pressure setup handy (with lots of adaptors) and being comfortable enough to just grab it for all sorts of things. They sure do save a lot of tail chasin' once you get used to using one.
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