McCulloch Chain Saws

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Another question. I have a 7-10 style muffler on my 10 10/700 mystery machine that has both a baffle and a pretty restrictive spark arrestor. Do you guys remove these or maybe remove the baffle and leave the spark arrestor to run better/cooler? What’s the conventional wisdom here? Thanks!

Also any tips for removing the bolt that broke off in the nubbin on the cylinder that the top of the muffler anchors to through the baffle? Asking for a friend…

Gut that muffler i say try some heat and an easy out

 

[vinnywv]

@vinnywv, do you think your friend would be interested in duplicating a 101B liner but with a factory bore, assuming I can remove it?

All, anyone know how to remove the liner without damaging the cylinder on a 101B?

Ron

Id like to think he would but its something id have to ask. Which i will.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Sorry to not respond till now...had to get the little ones ready for night time. I used a standard piston from bob johnson. 2 thin rings. 92519

My bad, there. I somehow failed to process that when initially reading your post and got sidetracked with the LRB reference -- which by itself is good info if the wrist pin issue can be rendered moot and the 'B' tolerances are actually consistent.

Again, kudos for your initiative.

 

[vinnywv]

So for the 101b, im not sure how that liner is in there. Likely cast cylinder around it. Heres the hard part we ran into. I took him a 54cc iron cylinder to look at. He looked and immediately said that the cylinder was cast around the liner. This was early on in our project. So id think it would have to be machined out of it. So on this 82cc project his first attempt at the sleeve he tried cooling it down and dropping it in. It didnt make it to the bottom and was not turned right. So he had to get a torch on it to heat it up very hot and smack it down to drop out the sleeve. 3 times. Lol. This sleeve is not cast into the cylinder. I doubt heating it to even cherry red would drop out the liner on a 101. The alluminum would likely melt first. On the 54cc cylinders i believe the intake port has a little nub that holds it in place. But ive never looked at a 101. Just something to look at and think about.

 

[rwoods]

I bet the kart guys know, but I don't know any kart guys. I only ran my 101B saw once. The wrist pin walked later while Brian was tuning it scratching the cylinder which was already at .050" over. I would love to give it a new life, but bigger pistons are super rare. Ron

 

[vinnywv]

I bet the kart guys know, but I don't know any kart guys. I only ran my 101B saw once. The wrist pin walked later while Brian was tuning it scratching the cylinder which was already at .050" over. I would love to give it a new life, but bigger pistons are super rare. Ron

Ron i sent you a pm regarding the 101.

 

[bob kern]

Anyone know of a decent quality pinch roller?
I’m not much of a fan of them but on occasion , they have their place. My 5 yr old has a 10” skil he is in love with but the gap in the rail would run 404!!!! I’m pretty sure that’s not the chain intended for the little scutter!

 

[heimannm]

I think I bought mine from Baileys.



Mark

 

[bob kern]

I think I bought mine from Baileys.

View attachment 958301

Mark

Thanks mark. Always forget about them. Pleased with it? I suppose I could make one but I’m busier than a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs!!

 

[Woodslasher]

I pulled the oiler button on the 5-10 and the rod immediately jumped up, I swapped in my spare rod and now it pumps oil flawlessly! I'm pretty happy with how it looks and cuts, although I may wind up fiddling with the carb. The "HYD" on the bar is because the bar was intended for a hydraulic saw, but it was salvaged from a finished tunneling operation's site by my neighbor back in the 80's or 90's. All the leftover parts and tools (including that bar) were going to be abandoned but he saved it and had it kicking around his shop until he gave it to me a few years back.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I think I bought mine from Baileys.

View attachment 958301

Mark

I think I got mine from Baileys also. Not something that I use often, but when you need it, it is very handy.


Brian

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Man I need to get me 1 of these machines. I beat mine up n down over an anvil

 

[bob kern]

I think I got mine from Baileys also. Not something that I use often, but when you need it, it is very handy.
View attachment 958342

Brian

Thanks!!

 

[rwoods]

I think I got mine from Baileys also. Not something that I use often, but when you need it, it is very handy.
View attachment 958342

Brian

Good to see that I have somewhere to go if I ever need one.
Ron

Ron

 

[bob kern]

Good to see that I have somewhere to go if I ever need one.
Ron

Ron

Yep. I don’t use one often. Don’t usually need them on a bar I bought new , but many of the bars that come on used saws could use a pass or two and are decent bars otherwise.

 

[heimannm]

I had to replace the bearings on mine shortly after I bought it as the bearing race broke. Maybe I was trying too hard, I don't know for sure but the replacement bearing(s) were also Chinese but I haven't had any problems since. It is not a "set and forget" kind of tool, you have to adjust, work it, adjust, work, etc. etc. and often there are areas on the bar that require more work than others. I also keep a large straight screwdriver handy since at times you also need a bar rail opener.

Closing the rails will never make a bar like new again, but it can extend the service life of a bar, particularly if you have one you keep for particularly nasty jobs.

Mark

 

[bob kern]

I had to replace the bearings on mine shortly after I bought it as the bearing race broke. Maybe I was trying too hard, I don't know for sure but the replacement bearing(s) were also Chinese but I haven't had any problems since. It is not a "set and forget" kind of tool, you have to adjust, work it, adjust, work, etc. etc. and often there are areas on the bar that require more work than others. I also keep a large straight screwdriver handy since at times you also need a bar rail opener.

Closing the rails will never make a bar like new again, but it can extend the service life of a bar, particularly if you have one you keep for particularly nasty jobs.

Mark

Exactly on all counts sir!!

 

[Syncop8r]

Man I need to get me 1 of these machines. I beat mine up n down over an anvil

I've seen them on one of the NZ online chainsaw parts shops, can't remember which one...

EDIT: https://mikeschainsawshop.co.nz/forester-bar-rail-closer-tool

 

[Brian Thacker]

I had to replace the bearings on mine shortly after I bought it as the bearing race broke. Maybe I was trying too hard, I don't know for sure but the replacement bearing(s) were also Chinese but I haven't had any problems since. It is not a "set and forget" kind of tool, you have to adjust, work it, adjust, work, etc. etc. and often there are areas on the bar that require more work than others. I also keep a large straight screwdriver handy since at times you also need a bar rail opener.

Closing the rails will never make a bar like new again, but it can extend the service life of a bar, particularly if you have one you keep for particularly nasty jobs.

Mark

I have thought about if a man had a strip of metal for each size or thickness of chain that a man could put inside the bar rail when using this tool. It would allow you to get the bar rails very straight and flat without going too far. I wonder if that would work?

Brian

 

[bob kern]

I have thought about if a man had a strip of metal for each size or thickness of chain that a man could put inside the bar rail when using this tool. It would allow you to get the bar rails very straight and flat without going too far. I wonder if that would work?

Brian

Maybe. I wander if you need to go a little past what you need in the end due to it springing back some. Just thinking.