McCulloch Chain Saws

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Matt - I believe you will find that the hole in the tank bottom is offset from the hole in the crankcase, that is why one of the gaskets has a slot rather than a hole.


Mark

Thanks Mark. I thought that might be the case. I haven't pulled apart a lot of 10 series saw, but I remember an offset in the insulator on some. It is a bugger because the gasket had let go a bit and let crud into the line and I think I made it worse trying to clear it. Didn't really want to pull the saw down, but might have to.
 
So I got 2 Mac 250s, both run perfect and both run .404 sprockets.

Can't find a 32" bars for them let alone any .404s, so I'm looking to swap to a 3/8.

Was recommended to pick up some Oregon 10608 rim kits, but any ones I've found are sold out.

Is there another Simple kit solution out there for these old 250s or do I have to trial and error parts and see what works?

Thanks,
Mad3400
 
So I got 2 Mac 250s, both run perfect and both run .404 sprockets.

Can't find a 32" bars for them let alone any .404s, so I'm looking to swap to a 3/8.

Was recommended to pick up some Oregon 10608 rim kits, but any ones I've found are sold out.

Is there another Simple kit solution out there for these old 250s or do I have to trial and error parts and see what works?

Thanks,
Mad3400
If you want a 32" bar, you'll want an Oregon 323RNDD009. Like Matt says, you'll need to widen the slot a little and grind the tail a little but it's your best bet. Buy a .404 Oregon tip and swap it out if need be. @heimannm might know where you can find rim drive kits, I knew there were a handful on ebay when I still had my big Macs (I even bought 2 or 3 of them), but I'm not seeing any on there now.
 
Kevin,so sorry to hear of the loss of your dad.I especially remember the video you posted a couple yrs.ago where you & your dad were taking down a tree & he was explaining to you how to do it properly.Your wife didn't know that & was doing the filming & was getting quite impatient.At least he got to pass on invaluable knowledge to his son.
Glad to hear you finally got that Super 250 running right.As for the grey sand-like substance in the fuel filter,I'd have to say it's fine magnesium particles from the fuel tank.This might be attributed to the additives that are being put in our gasolines today.
 
I have a good supply of splined clutch drums currently with or without bearings and sprockets.

Mark
I didn't think those saws used bearings, I seem to recall that the drums just had bronze bushings in them. But, it's been a while since I've messed with any of those 80cc Macs so I could be misremembering stuff.
For a simple conversion from .404 to 3/8s? Why do I seem to recall a discussion somewhere about that being much easier said than done? Perhaps it was related to some type of hybrid solution mismatch between an Oregon drum and a Mac bearing?
I never had an issue like that with my 1-41, I bought the oregon rim drive kit, put a 3/8 rim on the drum, and viola! I was able to run a 30" 3/8 bar on the saw. I swapped it out for an old 24" hard nose bar and a loop of .404 and again, all I had to do was swap the rim.
 
Depends on the model. The ones with the tapered crankshaft have a 9/16" shaft and use a bearing. The ones with the threaded clutch have a 5/8" shaft and use the bushing.

Ah, yes. The previous discussion I referenced is coming back to me now. And if memory serves, I don't believe there ever was a decidedly accepted conclusion.

So what are the options for converting each of the above from .404 spur drive setups to 3/8s rim drive setups -- (aside from the bar considerations, of course).
 
Is there a Mac specific chart out there for max rpm’s on there saws , 70cc to 123cc ?
No. This is about as close as you're gonna get. More of a sales poster than anything else. General rule of thumb is an 11,500 baseline and go from there by ear.
 

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I have converted 3 large frame saws to .375. All where the tapered crankshaft variety. Two of them I used an Oregon drum. When I did the third I couldn't find an Oregon drum but Lil Red Barn sells a drum that worked just fine.
 
The crankshaft with the taper is 9/16" diameter, plenty of rim drive drums available for those.

The threaded clutch crankshafts are 5/8" diameter and the brass bushing used in the drum is the same O.D. as the 910 bearing so any drum with the drawn cup needle bearing can accept the brass bushing to fit a rim drive sprocket on a saw with the larger diameter crankshaft.

I have drums, sprockets, bearings, and bushings available.

Mark
 
Thanks, guys.

The story I heard on those saws was that the engines were one of their large designs for model airplanes and the saw was designed as a left-handed saw simply because the engine rotated the wrong way for a right side PTO.

An old static line model airplane friend of mine has two in near mint condition.
 

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