These things are great for trail crews building remote places.
Battery operated tools work well until temperature drops.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
These things are great for trail crews building remote places.
Battery operated tools work well until temperature drops.
I got the $36 5-10 today & weent through it quickly before lunch.It has good spark & awesome compression! It was missing the fuel filter & had the wrong plug in it - a CJ8.I fueled it up after putting a new fuel filter in it & the correct plug,it took 3 primes before it started pulling fuel on it's own,but wouldn't idle.I checked the needle settings & they were way off.The lo was only out 3/4 turn & the hi was out about 3 1/2 turns.They lost the idler screw & tried compensating by using the hi & lo needles.I found an idle screw in a 10-10 tank handle & put that in,but still won't idle right.I'll need to pull the carb & go through it.I'm getting fuel in the airbox,probably a sticking needle valve.Also missing a bar plate & the snubber.For $36 I'm not complaining.I'll get pics here when I'm done with it.
Poodle_Bruce
ArboristSite Lurker
The Mityvac came in today. It is a nice tool! I am not usually impressed with new tools, even the case is well made.
I spent quite awhile messing around with my intake plug trying to build pressure. I eventually realized that I just have a massive air leak. Even blowing into the tube with my lungs there was little resistance. It is leaking on the clutch side.
Time to order some new seals!
I've been burning down the local craigslist trying to find another project saw. I still have a little space on the workbench.
I spent quite awhile messing around with my intake plug trying to build pressure. I eventually realized that I just have a massive air leak. Even blowing into the tube with my lungs there was little resistance. It is leaking on the clutch side.
Time to order some new seals!
I've been burning down the local craigslist trying to find another project saw. I still have a little space on the workbench.
Hopefully you've got a saw without too many issues this time, you're due....
Bruce - not sure which saw you are working on but remember that the impulse operated oilers on any McCulloch saw must be in place when trying to test crankcase integrity, otherwise you have a port directly from the crankcase to atmosphere.
Mark
Mark
Poodle_Bruce
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks Mark,
This is a 10-10A. I left the oiler assemblies attached. I could see air escaping from the crank seal, so I'll start there and see what else might be leaking.
As you can see a few posts back, that is not so unusual for the 10 Series saws, particularly if someone has run it without the shim/washer between the clutch drum and the seal. I have successfully replaced the PTO side seal without taking the crankcase apart but getting the new one back in can be very tricky when the two halves of the crankcase are slightly offset like this one is.
In all honesty, it is probably better to take the crankcase apart and clean everything inside while your at it.
If you can't source the seals locally, I have new ones available.
Mine was leaking at the crankcase joint as well so I had no choice but to split the case. Of course I didn't find the joint leaking until I'd already replaced the seal...
Mark Heimann
In all honesty, it is probably better to take the crankcase apart and clean everything inside while your at it.
If you can't source the seals locally, I have new ones available.
Mine was leaking at the crankcase joint as well so I had no choice but to split the case. Of course I didn't find the joint leaking until I'd already replaced the seal...
Mark Heimann
Poodle_Bruce
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks Mark! Being as this is my first rodeo fixing a saw, I really appreciate all the help. I'll let you know if I have trouble finding seals.
I already kind of had a notion to take everything apart and really clean the saw up. At this point why not?
I will do my best to sort parts and take pictures along the way...
I already kind of had a notion to take everything apart and really clean the saw up. At this point why not?
I will do my best to sort parts and take pictures along the way...
Other than my $4.50 DE80 & 6-10A that I got in the same lot,the 5-10 for $36 is the next cheapest.I also picked up a PM700 for $45.Deals are out there,but few & far between.
I pulled the carb off the 5-10 in the a.m.& found little wrong inside.The inlet screen was a bit dirty,but the diaphragms seemed to be good.I put a new kit in anyway.Apparently whoever had this saw used what looks to be a Homelite carb gasket (on left).I looked at the IPL to make sure & I was right,there should be the gasket on the right.The screws on the metering & pump covers were all loose,this could've been where the fuel in the airbox was coming from.
Attachments
You'll have to translate that Jethro,I'm not familiar with New Zealander,Lol.You jammy basterd lol
Now I can't get the carb to hold pressure.I put a couple coats of nail polish on the welch plugs to see if that helps.If that doesn't work,time for a NOS SDC16.
He's saying you're a tin-arse.
Lol...that cleared it up
Ed - try lapping the needle & seat using a bit of toothpaste (plain old Colgate is my choice). A piece of small diameter fuel line over the needle will give you something to old on to.
Mark
Mark
I don't think it's leaking at the needle & seat.Usually if that's the case,it'll stop leaking when gently pushed down with a screwdriver.It's continuing to leak down when I do that.The seat was clean & shiny.I was going top put a NOS SDC18 on it & use the needles from the SDC2,but they're too long.I then tried a NOS SDC37 & had the same problem.I finally found an SDC65 that has the upward angled needles for easier access for tuning.The problem with the 65 is I have no idea if the venturi are the same as the SDC2,or if they're smaller.I can't find any specs on the Walbro site.There's no garauntee that the SDC65 will hold pressure either.It needs to be cleaned & kitted first.
Just my luck that I get a good saw that has little to be done to it to be a runner & the carb has to screw with me.
It wasn't cheap because it ran good Ed.
The sdc65 is an excellent carb, I'd run one on a SP80 without hesitation.
The SDC16 and below have the smaller venturi (.625) and throttle bore (.750), the SDC18 and above have the larger venturi (.750) and throttle bore (.812).
Mark
Mark
I pulled the SDC65 apart last night & ran it through the ultrasonic cleaner twice with Seafoam.The metering spring is stuck in place due to old varnish.I guess I don't have to worry about losing it,Lol.The needle was stuck in place & I put one drop of rubbing alcohol on it & it freed up.This carb isn't looking very promising.
Similar threads
Want to Buy
McCulloch Super 250
