McCulloch Chain Saws

[PainAndMurphy]

After i had purchased my last McCulloch BP-1 I wrote and asked if i could have a bit of the history to the saw heres what i got back.

" Hello again Bob!

Thanks for your reply. I am glad to here that you have the parts to get it to run again! The BP-1 you bought came from a Case and Massey Ferguson dealership in Corruna, Michigan which my dad worked at, in the parts dept. and sales dept. from about 1960 to 1995. They also sold and serviced McCulloch chainsaws. My dad brought the BP-1 home sometime in the 1960s, as a customer had brought it back when hearing that there was a recall on them. My dad had always wanted to buy one when they came out, but with 7 of us kids to feed and clothe, he could not afford one. He used it a couple of times and it stopped running. He never bothered to take it apart to see what was wrong with it. It still had strong compression so he knew that it did'nt blow up. At any rate, it was probably a blessing that he never got it running again, as I am sure it would have ended up blowing a piston as many of them did. He gave the BP-1 to my younger brother back in the 1970s, and seeing that he likes to to things apart, he discovered the broken shaft inside it. Realizing that parts were unavailable, he carefully put all the parts in a box. Fast forward to Feb. 2013. As he was cleaning and re arranging his polebarn, he saw a box covered with dust that had not been touched in years,and upon finding the saw in it, he decided to put it back together and sell it. It has not seen the light of day since my brother originally took it apart in the early 1970s. Thanks again for purchasing the saw and preserving a rare piece of chainsaw history!!!!!

John S. "

McBob.

Wow! What an unusual chainsaw!
Looks like the narrowest at it's time!

Can you explain something about the engineering concept behind it?

Thanks

Jo.

 

[PainAndMurphy]

Oh.. and I found this!

McCulloch BP1 Balance Piston Chainsaw - About | Facebook

 

[ozflea]

Wow! What an unusual chainsaw!
Looks like the narrowest at it's time!

Can you explain something about the engineering concept behind it?

Thanks

Jo.

Really well to start will pull up a chair lean back .............. man do you think i'm that old

McBob.

 

[homelitejim]

Come on Grandpap Thunder, tell us kiddies a McCulloch story.:tongue2:

 

[ozflea]

Not bad a copy of my CD on Mac's dont forget to thank the fella who stole my months of work ............ McBob

And i read he's trying to protect his stuff

This website and its content is copyright of Small Engine Discount © 2012. All rights reserved.

Any redistribution or reproduction of part or all of the contents in any form is prohibited.

Owned and operated by Middleburg Power Equipment, Inc.




Well common sence and curtosey have prevailed the offending page with my IPLS has been taken down as they wait to see if the IPL'S offered were indeed mine which they were

Thanks Middleburg Power Equipment, Inc.

McBob.

 

[ozflea]

hi i found this site online and thought it might help members, i dont want to cause any arguments, i was only trying to be helpful, but i guess from the previous comment thats not the case.

Thanks my British friend you have my thanks ................... i appeciate you wanting to help your fellow Abortist friends .............. maybe one day i can return the favour

McBob.

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch 1-86 saga continues

I got started on this project a long while back, may have been Christmas time, I don't remember exactly. Not sure if I posted any of the "assembly" photos at that time so I will put it all together here.

I bought this 1-76 off e-bay, there was a rather poor photo of the bottom of the saw and I thought I saw 1-75 so I thought I'd be clever and snatch it. Turns out it was a 1-76, and I already had two (one runner and one could be) I decided to marry this with a gearbox I had from an 840 in a box since I also have a good 840 runner.

I don't name my saws, but if I did, I'd have to call this one Ron or maybe rwoods for all the trouble I've had along the way. I have never had a saw together and back apart again as many times as this one, mostly because of things I forgot along the way (that happens when you put it back together 3 months after you take it apart) but also to repair stripped threads, and to put the disk and ring in the clutch since I seemed to put the starter on without those two items every time I put it together.

First a few photos of the engine in works, overnight soak in Berryman's and the cylinder cleaned up nicely. This one already had a 0.030" overbore, but the rings were shot. I didn't have +0.030 rings in the attic, but I did have some used 790/890 rings that I was able to make useable by filing the ends.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

The crank case cover on the 1-76 was broken but I had a nice one in the attic that I'd already set aside with the 840 parts. Ignition was easy enough once I figured out the routing for the wires again.

Flywheel was a mess so I blasted it and painted it. Engine looked good going together and just from turning it over by hand it seemed to have great compression.

The gear case was quite a mess so I tore it completely down, sand blasted everything, and primed and painted it. I didn't want the gear case to leak so I installed a new seal, new sealed bearings, and used threebond on the gasket surfaces. Then after I had it all together once I realized I forgot one of the bolts holding the idler gear in place and had to tear it all apart again, and again, and again.

Mark

 

[leeha]

Nice project Mark. it can be tricky remembering where all
the parts go after time. I've done so many, It's now in memory.
I'm glad to see you got the wiring routed correctly. Most don't.
I've seen the wires installed all wrong many times. Please
change the flywheel nut to the original lock nut. That castle nut
may come loose.





Lee

 

[heimannm]

I did not take a lot "during" photos, but here it is all together. A few more of the rwoods moments during assembly were after everything was together for the 10th time or so I had to pull it all apart again to free up the oiler piston. Pull it apart one more time to replace the rear handle, the first one I selected had a short in in the kill switch. Pull it apart again to modify the original air vane governor to make the throttle open (still have to do that one more time), pull it apart again to repair a stripped thread in the block that holds the gear case to the saw, pull it apart again to repair a stripped thread in the gear case that fastens the block to the gear case, broke a head off one of the screws holding the gear case together (I was able to use the LH drill & easy out to remove the remains)...

I found a nice 24" bar and chain on the wall, but with the gear case it certainly makes it look more impressive.

And finally, flat back equipped. I only had to remove the carburetor twice, something was up with H adjustment screw and it would not screw in all the way so it was waaayyyy too rich to begin with. Primer works exceptionally well, only one pump required to kill it when the switch was disconnected. It does seems to have a fair bit of spit back and the airbox was not equipped for the spit back collector even though the carburetor has the fitting and tube.

Now I can either move on to something easier, like the PM570, or stick with large frame top tanks for a while and see about getting the 797 together but for that one I will need to find an oil tank. There is also a 1-81, 890, and 895 in the attic in need of attention.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Thanks Lee - you'd think that with three saws apart all over the place I'd have on spare flywheel nut somewhere, but a quick search did not reveal any so I bent the legs a bit to put a little squeeze on the threads. If I can't find one of the original type lock nuts I'll put a drop of green loc tite on this one.

Ron - I am not picking on you, I am sympathizing with all the trouble you have when you go cutting. I don't often have that much trouble in the field, but I sure had more than a fair share on this one.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Mark, I would be honored to have a work saw named after me. I appreciate the sympathy, but I really just post these mishaps for troop entertainment. Now for some real sad news, I gave into today to family pressure (and reality) and bought a new to me vehicle. Wife says my Landcruser (my daily ride and MAC hauler for over 20 years) or my pickup must go now. I love my Toyota more than my MACs - I know heresy. I probably made my last firewood trip in it today. :msp_sad: Ron

Parting shot:

I did put a few trees on the ground today. Most with an 800, few with a 036Pro and one with the Landcruiser.


I was called out by another cutter today to put these three trees down as they were leaning towards the house and/or fence:

I took the two on the right with an 800 and unintentionally, the one on the left with the Landcruiser. Look hard and you can see the 800 perched on one of the stumps. I later flush cut the stumps with a 125C:

I took a half dozen or so out of this patch. Most with an 800. Down in the valley, I cut a fair size maple that made a wonderful loud whisling swish through the air before exploding against the ground - RandyMac would have been proud - of the noise not the stump.

Before:

After:

View attachment 287639View attachment 287640View attachment 287641View attachment 287642

View attachment 287638

 

[heimannm]

The starter on my PM 60 has been sssllloooowwwww to retract. Finally took it down to see what. Thought it would just be dirty. But nooooo. Not dirty. The fiber or plastic bushing that the starter shaft rides against is split. Still in one piece but the split is apparently causing it to bind. Also looking for the flat fiber/plastic washer the recoil spring rides on. Anyone got these two parts that would be willing to make a deal for?

Actually Jerry the SP 60 should have a brass bushing and no nylon bushings as were used on many other models. The nylon bushings are supposed to have that slit; either someone has changed the flywheel cover or (likely) McCulloch made changes while the SP60 models were in production. It may be enough to just clean it up and lubricate with a touch of oil or white lithium.

The parts you need are 86053 for the shield behind the spring and 57535 for the bushings. Should be easy to find those parts on e-bay or perhaps chainsawr or customchainsawparts would have them. If you strike out let me know as I am sure I can find some in the shop.

Mark

 

[mcc 86]

Does anyone have any tip's on de carbonizing the inside of a cylinder? any tip's would be helpful...Thanks.

 

[jughead500]

Easiest possible way if the Saw is together and running would possibly be to go to your stihl Dealer.Stihl makes some sort of fluid that you pour in the Spark plug hole and let the saw set.(Probably at TDC) When you fire it up it burns the carbon out.Saw it at my local dealer.Just haven't tried it yet.

 

[heimannm]

There was quite a thread going quite recently about some fellow from Canada that used an automotive product mixed in the fuel, then administered a mist of water when the saw was running. Not sure what the thread was called but parts of it were entertaining.

If the saw is apart, an overnight soak in Berryman's works pretty well. I bought my gallon can complete with a strainer/basket at WalMart. Others have suggested that oven cleaner works but I haven't tried that approach.

I once did an overnight soak in purple cleaner (full strength) for an 066 cylinder and that also seemed to work pretty well.

Mark

 

[leecopland]

Outboar marine product

There was quite a thread going quite recently about some fellow from Canada that used an automotive product mixed in the fuel, then administered a mist of water when the saw was running. Not sure what the thread was called but parts of it were entertaining.

If the saw is apart, an overnight soak in Berryman's works pretty well. I bought my gallon can complete with a strainer/basket at WalMart. Others have suggested that oven cleaner works but I haven't tried that approach.

I once did an overnight soak in purple cleaner (full strength) for an 066 cylinder and that also seemed to work pretty well.

Mark

OMC has a product for two stroke outboards that you spray into the carb while the motor is running and keep it up till it stops running then leave the motor for 8 hours or overnight then take it for a run. This is designed to remove carbon and free up rings. Seems to work on my outboard. I will try it this summer on saw or two and see how it goes. Will report back if memory serves!

Regards,

Lee:msp_wink::msp_sneaky:

 

[leeha]

I think seafoam makes a product for decarboning engines.
I believe it's the same process that leecopeland stated above.





Lee

 

[mcc 86]

There was quite a thread going quite recently about some fellow from Canada that used an automotive product mixed in the fuel, then administered a mist of water when the saw was running. Not sure what the thread was called but parts of it were entertaining.

If the saw is apart, an overnight soak in Berryman's works pretty well. I bought my gallon can complete with a strainer/basket at WalMart. Others have suggested that oven cleaner works but I haven't tried that approach.

I once did an overnight soak in purple cleaner (full strength) for an 066 cylinder and that also seemed to work pretty well.

Mark

I think i will try the berryman's stuff since i already have it all apart. Do you remember how much it cost's? It's actually a little mantis/echo tiller i am working on. Thanks for the other suggestions too. I will give them a try since i don't really want to tear a saw down just to scrape the carbon off.

Aaron

 

[heimannm]

I don't remember exactly but I would guess around $20???

Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner | Berryman Products

I find it works pretty well, I suppose if I really wanted to make one look like new I could always go back and forth between the Berryman's and purple cleaner.

Mark