McCulloch Chain Saws

[BigBlue]

Very nice 10-10S! Hard to believe a saw in that condition is still around from the early 80's. My one-owner 10-10S is clean but not that clean.

Rob

 

[edju1958]

Wow! Has that saw ever had fuel in it?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

C'mon poge get it in some wood

 

[Beetlejuice]

C'mon poge get it in some wood

Make us proud

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Oh, it'll see some wood. The guy just put a kit (including welch plugs) in the carb before selling it. I want to go over all that before getting too much more excited. It does start right up, but isn't dialed in right. Want to check the re-kit before finding out the hard way that it won't take/hold a normal tune and hafta rebuild it again anyway.

Should also probably put a pretty McCulloch bar on it for at least a few more pics before gettin' it all dirty, huh?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Fair enough it is tidy enough to be looked after right. Is there any paint around as hard as the factory? Cos 24 would be nice and the mac 24s dont seem to be around 20" inch are around though. Geuss it depends on what wood you get I spose n no point havin to much bar unless your compensating haha

 

[NeSurfcaster]

Beautiful saw there, nice find. I saw a new 20" sprocket nose mcculloch bar on ebay the other day. I'm not sure if it is "professional" or not.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

https://m.ebay.com/itm/218495-McCul...706873&hash=item440a3a855e:g:2toAAOSw2N1Zvv0A..

Is this painted or original? I didnt realize mcculloch had oregon make bars for them. I have a 24inch the same old style oregon n thought it would be silly to paint it up like a mac bar but mite have a go now.

 

[toofuss]

Pretty sure that's an original. Seeing as it's stamped mcculloch along with painted. Wish it was 3/8 pitch. I could use one of those

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Ahh true didnt notice that. So are they coman? Ive never seen a oregon version before

 

[toofuss]

Seems to be quite a few on ebay in 28inch 3/8 .058. Never really looked for a .325

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[BigBlue]

Is there a trick to putting the bearing seal into the small bearing end of the crankshaft? Since this bearing slides off the crank I just pressed the seal into the bearing race while off, but then trying to get the bearing/seal unit onto the crankshaft I couldn't get the seal to slide over the crank where the shaft diameter increases to full dimension. Ended up pushing the lip out which then caused the seal spring to pop off. Then I put a screwdriver through the seal lip as I tried to remove it to fix the spring. <<various cusswords omitted>> When I get my next $12 seal I'd like to do it right... Does that mean that I put the bearing on first and then put the seal on the shaft and use a socket to push it into place in the bearing? Or was I on the right track but there is a better way to get it to slide onto the shaft?

This is for a PM800 if that matters...

Thanks,
Rob

 

[edju1958]

I have heard that if you can freeze the saw/crank it'll shrink & help with the seal going on.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Use something to mitigate the step in the crank. I have some old microfiche that works great. Some guys just use a wrap of electrical tape around the crank. Whichever, lube the seal lip with a little light grease or a drop of oil and it should slip right over that step. A little twisting motion (with the direction of the wrap) helps.

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[PogoInTheWoods]

The above applies to either situation -- seal already installed in bearing or being installed after the bearing is in place on the crank.

Freezing a crank is usually done to install high interference press fit bearings and not typically a practice used in seal installation.

 

[BigBlue]

I had lubed the seal lip and the step with 2-stroke oil before trying. I can try the tape or plastic film idea too.

Based on what I'm hearing though, installing the seal in the bearing while the bearing is removed is the right order though?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I've found it to be a little easier that way if the engine is disassembled, though most seals are installed in a bore in the case or an already installed bearing anyway so it's actually a toss up after you've done a few each way. I certainly wouldn't tear down a short block to remove the bearing just for a seal replacement!

And there is a service tool for installing the seal over the step on the crank. The tape, or film, or whatever is just a redneck way of accomplishing the same task without it.

 

[Hoggwood]

I've also used stubs of 1/2" copper pipe and the slightly wider diameter couplings to match the step when installing on some cranks. Chamfer the end of the pipe and slide the seal on the sleeve in the reverse direction. Keeps the lip from rolling and the spring in place. Slip the sleeve over the crank and transfer the seal.

 

[heimannm]

BB - You can install the seal more easily if you put it in last after the saw is fully assembled, that way you can "work" the seal around the square end of the crankshaft and get it over the step. Other alternatives are thin plastic film or steel ship like Poge shows above, others will use a few wraps of electrical tape, I made a tool to slip over the crankshaft and butt up to the step to make nice transition. Once I get a few things under control here I plan to make more of these and hand them out as party favors at GTG's and such...



Mark

 

[BigBlue]

Thanks for all the ideas, guys. I think I have enough to come up with something workable now. I bet I can make my own tapered 'ramp' to duplicate what Mark showed with some chunk of plastic or just building up tape and filler.

Rob