McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
The reality is it will get started up once / twice and spend life mounted on my wall....plus the money I save can be spent elsewhere.

Someone had previously mentioned that new bars can be made to fit the 7-10A - is there any style / type of bar I need to source or is it just one that would fit a newer McCulloch with 3/8 chain?
 
I started perusing ebay and if I dont want a McCulloch original bar there are some options available....

Not sure if this is the first pic in this thread without a McCulloch saw in sight, but is this the beginning of the end for me? Next thing I know I'll be like Mark with a purpose built facility to display saws. The orange comes up a bit tangerine in certain light with the 031 I restored but that's going to happen when experimenting with different colours.

IMG_0403aa.JPG
 
I started perusing ebay and if I dont want a McCulloch original bar there are some options available....

Not sure if this is the first pic in this thread without a McCulloch saw in sight, but is this the beginning of the end for me? Next thing I know I'll be like Mark with a purpose built facility to display saws. The orange comes up a bit tangerine in certain light with the 031 I restored but that's going to happen when experimenting with different colours.

View attachment 740661

Nice job looks good up there on the wall. You can also get stick on stencils for a bar if you feel the need. They balance nice with a 20 inch will pull bigger bars but to me a 20 is perfect especially in hard dry old blue gum no doubt you'll have plenty of that around
 
Yeah I was going to get an 18" or 20" bar for it as they are fairly cheap and wont take up tonnes of wall space....
 
Jerry, a few weeks ago, i fit up a stihl rollomatic es bar to a sp81 very well. Used a small square file for adjusting holes. Filed it out into the bar groove for oiling. Made a spacer for the studs. It works perfect. My spacer was a piece of steel strap. Drilled 2 holes in it for the studs and a file to shape it for the stihl bar mount. Took some time but it works very well. Ive also made spacers for over the bar studs also. But the steel worked better in my opinion. All bars start out the same really, they just have different holes punched or drilled in them for different manufacturers.
 
It is always a pleasure to get a job like that and get all the tools and parts cleaned up again.

Mark

P.S. thanks for the sketch, I will save it with my other Titan photos for a reference should I ever need it.

Haha the Ms. Laughed at my drawing
I actually stopped by an old saw shop and the owner gave me his copy of the 1989 ipl. Probably because the saw had his shop sticker on it when I found it in the scrap yard.
 
More of a general question given there are some experienced saw guys here:


If I wanted to diagnose a freshly rebuilt chainsaw with all new parts that is not getting fuel how would you go about it (saw runs with fuel injected manually through carb). I have most tools and a Mityvac 8500 vacuum / pressure gauge.


How would I test the below (these are just the problems I could think of)?


Blockage in fuel line to carburettor

Blocked vent valve

Not getting vacuum through impulse line

Malfunctioning carby float needle / blocked passage


Appreciate any help as I need to up my diagnosis game.
 
Jerry,
1. Take tank cap off, pull line off carb. Gently blow air back into fuel tank. If you get bubbles then not blocked.
2.vent issue. Start it without cap on. If it wont run with cap on and does run with cap off....vent issue.
3. Impulse line. Pull carb off. Squirt some fuel or oil of sort into impulse hole. Gently pull cord. Oil/fuel should squirt back out of hole to some degree. If it does its not blocked. Make sure that the gasket is not covering the impulse also. Both on saw and carb.
4. If you have not rebuilt the carb. Get a kit and replace gaskets and diaphragms. While its apart clean all passages with spray cleaner of your choice and compressed air. The metering needle tab is flush with carb body. Use a small straight edge to check. Bend it to flush, gently if needed. Re-assemble and try it. set needles one turn out from lightly seated to start and fine tune after its warmed up.
 
Appreciate you taking the time to reply mate.

I'll just eliminate an issue one by one....it sucks at the time but encountering issues is the only way to really learn.
 
Think I'd try a few more primes and a few more pulls before tearing things down to begin implementing Vinny's very good troubleshooting tips. Sometimes several primes is what it takes to get fuel flowing from the tank. If there's still no joy, check the fuel line for a kink at the elbow directly before the line goes over the barb at the carburetor. There is typically a spring inside the fuel line to keep it from kinking shut at that location. If all seems cool there, check the impulse stuff next and whittle it down from that point. Any compressed air applied to the carb should be very low pressure and probably not necessary if small shots of carb cleaner get through the normal passages while the carb is disassembled.
 
Does anyone know what kind of bar (colour / looks wise) the 7-10A came out with...was it one of those black with yellow lettering bars? I cannot find much in the way of original colour sales brochure etc on line.
 
Does anyone know what kind of bar (colour / looks wise) the 7-10A came out with...was it one of those black with yellow lettering bars? I cannot find much in the way of original colour sales brochure etc on line.
Some of the later models with the chain brake assembly had the bar with a lettering. <-- not that I've seen one in person just going by this image..
Screen Shot 2019-06-13 at 5.35.15 pm.png

I think the earlier models had a plain steel bar - no lettering - just a small stamped part number.

Screen Shot 2019-06-13 at 5.40.48 pm.png
 

Latest posts

Back
Top