McCulloch Chain Saws

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I thought I would pass this along for those of you looking for an alternate to the molded 10 series fuel lines.

I know Mark H sourced a grommet for the tank hole from McMaster Carr which won't ship to Canada and some have said they are a pain to deal with in the US.

The supplier is Grainger in the US and Acklands Grainger in Canada.
The fit is perfect to pass a 1/4" OD fuel line.

It's a bit small for the carb barb but with a little heat to the line it's easy to get on if you're using Tygon.

Part number is the same for US and Canada. A pack of 50 Buna N (Nitrile) grommets for $6.00 US or in Canada $6.95

Hard to beat that. They will ship or if you live close to one of their retail outlets you can pick them up there.

PN 3MRH4

Link

https://www.grainger.com/product/GR...rommet-3MRH4?searchBar=true&searchQuery=3mrh4
 
It is one of them. All you have is a low idle air/fuel mixture. The high adjustment is not there. Dont be fooled though. Ive got one on a sp81 and a cp125. They both run fantastic. Plenty of to end. If you must adjust though change it out. But in my experience they run very well on the high side.
 
I have several different saws with the fixed H jet carburetors including a PM55 and an SP125. They are perfect for work saws, but are not going to win any sonic race events as they certainly gargle when they are not loaded.

Mark

Well I suppose thats how the factory kept them from gernading . The saw has Very good holding the starter cord compression and popped off strong from a prime but if its been rich its whole life that would make sense.
 
My 7-10 has the little Tilly fixed jet and I've now swapped it out with the sdc65 but it actually was a snappier saw with the tilly. It started getting a bit lean over time though I'd slowly had to set the low a bit richer to compensate until it was just to far I'll rebuild it and try again it seemed a better saw with it
 
My 7-10 has the little Tilly fixed jet and I've now swapped it out with the sdc65 but it actually was a snappier saw with the tilly. It started getting a bit lean over time though I'd slowly had to set the low a bit richer to compensate until it was just to far I'll rebuild it and try again it seemed a better saw with it

I'm not surprised, I usually just rebuild every carburetor I come across and there is a difference between the walbro and a tillotson.
I used to be the "carb guy" in my area in Pennsylvania . I've had the chance to rebuid/ restore carbs from a 1936 Carter single bbl to the variable venturi Predator ,literally 100s of carburetors for 4 strokes.
The the sdc walbro isn't a bad little carb ,but when I get into a tillotson that carburetor is just a higher quality casting, fitting and finish, the HL87 I just did for the 1-41 really impressed me.
I haven't done enough of the little 4 stroke carbs to get an idea of bad design in them yet but the quality of the tillotson is certainly noticeable to me.
 
Any suggestions for sourcing Tillotson parts where the shipping won't actually defeat the purpose? I have an HS-118-B with a bent throttle shaft and I also launched the spring and choke friction ball into orbit while removing the choke shaft not knowing they were there.
 
Hello everyone. I have a few E model Macs, I was wondering if anyone would know a good source to repair the battery. I did have one done at a local battery store years ago. Just wondering what others have done?
 
I went to a "Batteries +" store but it was quite expensive. Might be worth investigating buying the individual cells (1.2 volts each) and coming up with your own heat shrink to couple them. Then again, maybe your local Batteries + shop will be more reasonable...they tell me this kind of job is priced at the managers discretion.

Mark
 
I went to a "Batteries +" store but it was quite expensive. Might be worth investigating buying the individual cells (1.2 volts each) and coming up with your own heat shrink to couple them. Then again, maybe your local Batteries + shop will be more reasonable...they tell me this kind of job is priced at the managers discretion.

Mark
I see. Thank you for the reply, I will try to report back on my experience with these units.
 
I’ve just picked up a McCulloch Pro MAC 850 super. It does not have a decompression valve and has a raised air filter pod. I see in the above picture where the decomp button goes, mine looks like it has a plug. Won’t try starting it till I’ve removed the muffler. Could be the perfect partner to the McCulloch 10-10 S.
 
I’ve just picked up a McCulloch Pro MAC 850 super. It does not have a decompression valve and has a raised air filter pod. I see in the above picture where the decomp button goes, mine looks like it has a plug. Won’t try starting it till I’ve removed the muffler. Could be the perfect partner to the McCulloch 10-10 S.

Nice saw is effectively a pm800 pm805 some have a decomp some don't. All have the notch in the exhaust called the Q port for easyer starting instead of the decomp. The valve is a coarse thread compared to the other Macs and is harder to find if you unscrew it you will find a blank hole or drilled into the cylinder

I spend hours n hours hanging off mine in the weekends pulling a 32inch bar buried all the way with full comp chain and it's in it's element.20190803_132213-1.jpg
 
J
Thanks for the info, I will check it out. That was my first post btw. Will have a go at uploading pictures next. I bet you’d get a few boxes of matches from the log your cutting :)
Jethro is correct. It has a course thread plug in it. If its actually drilled thru under that then to put a decomp. In it would have to be a course thread one. Not easy to find. If not then its just the Q port exhaust. They are just fine. Just be firm when you start it. Theres a picture of the difference if you search "mcculloch Q port" posted by a member here. Mark H. I bet its a good runner. Im working on a pm850 now. Awaiting a part. Im really looking forward to running it. Welcome to the mcculloch forum world. A lot of experience here.
 

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