McCulloch Chain Saws

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Sorry Kevin - I got busy with other things today including shoveling some winter blessings today....surprising that it can snow when the temperature is below 0 degrees F.

I will try to investigate the box of Super 250 parts tomorrow.

One of the projects today was test fitting a bar and chain on the 77. My nephew is working for a tree service in Kodiak, AK and his boss managed to lose the bar, chain, and sprocket of his McCulloch 77.

20210212_175029.jpg

Mark
 
Is $200 for a running PM700 a good deal? There's a clean one near me I'm trying to pass up on, but I'm sorely tempted...
00k0k_lzkqCbpPkWiz_0CI0lM_600x450.jpg
 
vinnywv said:
Likely that trying to remove the flywheel with a big screwdriver in the fins is how it got broken in the first place. The rope trick works very well. Looks really clean now.
Click to expand...

Hi guys, does anyone use the screwdriver method described in the Mac 10 series workshop manual (the one I have anyway):
"Lock the flywheel with a screwdriver by placing the point of the screwdriver against the socket (on the flywheel nut) and the shank of the screwdriver against the raised boss on the edge of the flywheel ..."?
I'm apprehensive about the screwdriver, can imagine somthing slipping and damaging the flywheel vanes.

2broke2ride said:
Yup, she's done. PM 700 is a chrome lined cylinder and Mac is not known for good quality chrome meaning cylinder is likely toast too. You can have the rechromed which is easy but not cheap (US Chrome) or find a good used or NOS cylinder which is likely cheaper but not as easy. Welcome to the world of old saws lol.
My first call would be to Bob Johnson in NY, he may be able to help you out. Someone else here will be able to set you up with his number.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think I'm going to try the rope trick on my PM700 frankensaw. Been swamped at work, but hope to have some time soon to pull the cylinder to assess the damage; I'll pull the flywheel and clutch anyway, I'd like to take a shot at changing the crank seals while it's apart. I don't think it will run anytime soon though :(
 
On a happier note: with all the 82cc action on here, I couldn't pass this up! :)

de80_l.jpeg
de80_r.jpeg
de80_lid.jpeg

I removed the clutch cover in the pics, but it's got a working chain brake. It's clearly newer than my other Macs (10-10A and frankensaw); funny how it doesn't have any Mac logos etc. the only reference is on the airbox lid in the small print. It has a home-made wrap handle attachment :)

I asked the previous owner for a piston shot, pic below. There appears to be some sealant/carbon gunk or something near the muffler gasket (yellow arrow)? I'd like to pull the (impressive!) muffler and check it out, and make sure the muffler's torqued down before running it. The muffler on this thing is quite large, and the saw has rubber anti-vibe pieces/additional belly plates that I know nothing about. Can someone refer me to a workshop manual? I've been looking around online, but haven't come up with anything.
Any advice would be much appreciated!

de80_cyl_3.png
 
Marvin Booysen said:
Hi guys, does anyone use the screwdriver method described in the Mac 10 series workshop manual (the one I have anyway):
"Lock the flywheel with a screwdriver by placing the point of the screwdriver against the socket (on the flywheel nut) and the shank of the screwdriver against the raised boss on the edge of the flywheel ..."?
I'm apprehensive about the screwdriver, can imagine somthing slipping and damaging the flywheel vanes.



I think I'm going to try the rope trick on my PM700 frankensaw. Been swamped at work, but hope to have some time soon to pull the cylinder to assess the damage; I'll pull the flywheel and clutch anyway, I'd like to take a shot at changing the crank seals while it's apart. I don't think it will run anytime soon though :(
Click to expand...
I pretty much always use a rope in the cylinder and sometimes I just check it out with a hand pull first, sometimes they pop off.
I'll rap the crank snout with a large brass drift if it sticks.
 
Marvin Booysen said:
On a happier note: with all the 82cc action on here, I couldn't pass this up! :)

View attachment 889428
View attachment 889429
View attachment 889430

I removed the clutch cover in the pics, but it's got a working chain brake. It's clearly newer than my other Macs (10-10A and frankensaw); funny how it doesn't have any Mac logos etc. the only reference is on the airbox lid in the small print. It has a home-made wrap handle attachment :)

I asked the previous owner for a piston shot, pic below. There appears to be some sealant/carbon gunk or something near the muffler gasket (yellow arrow)? I'd like to pull the (impressive!) muffler and check it out, and make sure the muffler's torqued down before running it. The muffler on this thing is quite large, and the saw has rubber anti-vibe pieces/additional belly plates that I know nothing about. Can someone refer me to a workshop manual? I've been looking around online, but haven't come up with anything.
Any advice would be much appreciated!

View attachment 889431
Click to expand...
Those rings are thicker than the oem so it was probably rebuilt and the previous owner got a little careless with the sealant.
The "Beg for manuals " thread is a good place for an ipl or service manual.
I modified the muffler on my PM800 to reduce the amount of heat soak.
 
Woodslasher said:
Is $200 for a running PM700 a good deal? There's a clean one near me I'm trying to pass up on, but I'm sorely tempted...
00k0k_lzkqCbpPkWiz_0CI0lM_600x450.jpg
Click to expand...
You can swap out any body parts on that 700 with just about any 10 series you want.
I have 1 pm700 set up with the small n/b clutch cover and Mark's full wrap handle.
I'd buy that saw, after a peek down the carb throat into the cylinder and a pull of the rope
 
Good morning guys.
Bad ice storm here in Virginia this morning. Very dangerous to step outside.

I've been working on a 10-10A that was given to me.
It runs, but the little things keep burning time.

I thought that throttle didn't feel right.
1613221199283.png


I have another.
1613221278329.png


Bottom bolt on the cylinder cover. My small easy out is broken.
I will buy a new set today.
1613221385265.png


Since I took this pic with the Endoscope I'll remove the muffler to clean the exhaust port.
Cylinder could use a polish, but it will have to wait. To many saws apart now.
1613221563849.png

Have a good day guys.
Clint
 
rwoods said:
Before I was allowed to run a chainsaw, my dad handed me a saw very similar to the one on the left and handed my older brother one similar to the one on the right except it had a much straighter edge. We used those to limb and trim for several years before we were turned loose with a couple of Power Mac 6As.

Ron
Click to expand...
Now that will make you appreciate a chainsaw and take good care of it.
 
heimannm said:
If it hasn't been answered already, that is the pulse fitting on top of the carburetor, the alternating pressure/vacuum from the crankcase operates the fuel pump to move fuel from the tank to the carburetor. Not surprising it won't stay running without it.
View attachment 888050

Mark
Click to expand...
My brain hurts. What a crows nest.
 

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